I'm dumb and I think I broke my amp

Lololol yeah... Kickers actually aren't that bad, had a pair of the older CVRs in a big sealed box on 500W a piece and they were great sounding for what they were.
OP, that doesn't mean you should go with Kicker subs.
The cvr's cvx's and l7's are actually good subs I've seen them all handle 100+ extra rms without blowing. The only reason people down them so much is because there are so many other subs of the same size that do 1k rms +. They are far from junk they are actually good subs. Mabey not the loudest or strongest but still good. Also they are a lot more affordable than all them other ones and very reliable for the price.

 
Keep the shitposting and trolling to the dome, kids.

OP. You are screwed. If you had a better quality amp it may have had protection circuitry that would have saved it, but typically that's insta-kill for an amp and it's not anything user serviceable. You're looking at 80$ an hour + parts for a legit shop to fix an amp, and after shipping in and out and parts you're well on your way to just buying a good amp.

Also if the amp fried before the fuse you were using far too high a value fuse.

 
It cannot be repaired in any sort of cost effective manner and there is nothing you can do to diagnose the problem unless you're an electronics technician with a scope and an understanding of power supply construction.
BB this is exactly the type of thread I was referring to... OP asked for help and 90% of these people only dog his equipment.

 
Keep the shitposting and trolling to the dome, kids.
OP. You are screwed. If you had a better quality amp it may have had protection circuitry that would have saved it, but typically that's insta-kill for an amp and it's not anything user serviceable. You're looking at 80$ an hour + parts for a legit shop to fix an amp, and after shipping in and out and parts you're well on your way to just buying a good amp.

Also if the amp fried before the fuse you were using far too high a value fuse.
Agreed for the most part, except that last statement. Fuses aren't polarity conscious.

 
BB this is exactly the type of thread I was referring to... OP asked for help and 90% of these people only dog his equipment.
Yabut... you and I are old and apparently the phrase "run what ya brung" now comes with the caveat "as long as the collective approves". ;-)

 
Yabut... you and I are old and apparently the phrase "run what ya brung" now comes with the caveat "as long as the collective approves". ;-)
Lol right most people on this site would rather dog someones **** just to try and look cool instead of doing what this site is made for which is helping others with car audio and discussing it.

 
BB this is exactly the type of thread I was referring to... OP asked for help and 90% of these people only dog his equipment.
TO some extent it should reinforce the point that the amp is not worth the cost of repair and OP should consider something higher quality for his next purchase.

I assure you from experience that a high end amp properly fused would pop the fuse and save itself in the same circumstances.

 
Back in high school i had a boss cross over destroy 2 old punch 15's. Crapy switch. Buy something better IMO and use that as wall are. Some amps look cool with a plexy top and light. Just saying.

 
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