I want 1500 rms @ 3 ohms.

[Mythirdgen 10+ year member]

What about the Kicker ZX2500.1?

 

[Mythirdgen 10+ year member]

t1500.1bdcp

That one looks pretty good too.

 

[Mythirdgen 10+ year member]

t1500.1bdcp

That one looks pretty good too.

 

---------- Post added at 01:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:42 PM ----------

 

t1500.1bdcp

That one looks pretty good too.

 

[Mythirdgen 10+ year member]

ive SEEN them blow off a jl 1000/1. not heard SEEN. there is a difference sir.

Not calling you a liar. I'm just asking. Not all amps and subs can handle what they say. I had 2 12 Memphis C3 (600rms) and the 1000/1 blew both of them. Now I have a 100/1v2 powering 2 12Memphis M5 and they are doing just fine.

 

[sacsking916 5,000+ posts]

that was what i posted originally is the bdcp amp. constant power from 4ohms to 1ohm. i wouldnt mess with the zx2500 like most other things just not as good as the older KX line of kicker amps.

 

[sacsking916 5,000+ posts]

Not calling you a liar. I'm just asking. Not all amps and subs can handle what they say. I had 2 12 Memphis C3 (600rms) and the 1000/1 blew both of them. Now I have a 100/1v2 powering 2 12Memphis M5 and they are doing just fine.

i know, and i was just answering you bro. if it came off as sounding harsh or anything else i apologize. also you do know there is a difference of clean vs dirty power correct? that could be the culprit among a lot of things.

 

[T.I.K. 10+ year member]

I have a JL 13w7. I have a JL 1000/1 hooked up but the pos and neg terminals melted together. JL wants 180 to fix it or replace it but I figured I'd just upgrade since its the v1. I want to get the full potential out of the sub with its suggested 1500rms. I know that JL says the 1000/1 is optimal but that kinda goes against the 13w7 having a 1500 watt rms doesn't it? I would say that money is no object but then I'll be seeing people post $5000 amps. I sure don't want some Boss or any of that garbage either. 1500w @ 3 ohms. Help? Oh. And no I will not wire it to .75 like I see so many people putting on here. I want nice power but I'm not doing comps.

You'd be better off wiring it to .75 ohms. You're always going to have box rise, which will almost certainly be over 1 ohm, unless 13W7's defy physics as well as reasonable pricing.

 

[sacsking916 5,000+ posts]

since you folks keep insisting on wiring lower,

Car Audio Tip of the Day:
When deciding how to wire your subs to your amplifier, it's important to know that impedence DOES NOT JUST RISE. The reason it is called "nominal" impedence is because the coil will almost never be that impedence during play. On music your impedence WILL DROP sometimes to as much as 1/4 of nominal.
For burps you can count on rise because you will have the most rise at your peak frequency and that's what you're burping at. For music you cannot count on it because it goes through lots of different frequencies and WILL drop on some of them. Wiring low for daily is NOT smart. We hear that lie all the time on forums about how the nominal impedence is simply the lowest impedence the coil will be and it only rises from there. That is NOT true. Don't fall for it. It's an expensive lie to believe.

thanks to @cthedinger

 

[T.I.K. 10+ year member]

[quote name='sacsking916']since you folks keep insisting on wiring lower,

Car Audio Tip of the Day:
When deciding how to wire your subs to your amplifier, it's important to know that impedence DOES NOT JUST RISE. The reason it is called "nominal" impedence is because the coil will almost never be that impedence during play. On music your impedence WILL DROP sometimes to as much as 1/4 of nominal.
For burps you can count on rise because you will have the most rise at your peak frequency and that's what you're burping at. For music you cannot count on it because it goes through lots of different frequencies and WILL drop on some of them. Wiring low for daily is NOT smart. We hear that lie all the time on forums about how the nominal impedence is simply the lowest impedence the coil will be and it only rises from there. That is NOT true. Don't fall for it. It's an expensive lie to believe.

thanks to @cthedinger[/QUOTE]

i guess i believe dingleberry, but I still don't understand how the impedance would drop... I work with electrical coils similar to VCs, and the only thing they do when power is applied to them heat up and thus increase their impedance. Physics, brah.

 

[Mythirdgen 10+ year member]

i know, and i was just answering you bro. if it came off as sounding harsh or anything else i apologize. also you do know there is a difference of clean vs dirty power correct? that could be the culprit among a lot of things.

Yeah. That's why I tried to match it with its "ideal" 1000/1 but just couldn't believe what happened to the amp with the melting. I've always had really good luck with JL but it may be time for a change.

 

[Imtjnotu 5,000+ posts]

I like the looks of that the best so far. I've heard that PG amps have gone downhill in the last 10 years. Ever heard anything like that? I used to have 4 of the M series in my camaro.

No

 

[Mythirdgen 10+ year member]

You'd be better off wiring it to .75 ohms. You're always going to have box rise, which will almost certainly be over 1 ohm, unless 13W7's defy physics as well as reasonable pricing.

I see you quoted my original post but you failed to read it.

 

[Imtjnotu 5,000+ posts]

I like the looks of that the best so far. I've heard that PG amps have gone downhill in the last 10 years. Ever heard anything like that? I used to have 4 of the M series in my camaro.

No

 

[Mythirdgen 10+ year member]

You'd be better off wiring it to .75 ohms. You're always going to have box rise, which will almost certainly be over 1 ohm, unless 13W7's defy physics as well as reasonable pricing.

I see you quoted my original post but you failed to read it.

 

[Sonic. 10+ year member]

Wire it to 3 ohms and power it with the JL Audio HD1200/1(1200 watts rms @ 11V-14.5v).