I wanna be felt.....

Corsica
5,000+ posts

CarAudio.com Veteran
Okay I don't really care if i can maek this heard 1/2 mile away, i wanna be felt. With the exception of bandpass, how can I make 2 12" subs hit their hardest, besides using bigger amps?? Is there a really good tuning or anything u guys can suggest??

J

 
Originally posted by Corsica Okay I don't really care if i can maek this heard 1/2 mile away, i wanna be felt. With the exception of bandpass, how can I make 2 12" subs hit their hardest, besides using bigger amps?? Is there a really good tuning or anything u guys can suggest??

 

J
port the suckers

 
Already running a ported box for now. Going to go an all new route for a new truck, here soon. Hopefully it will work just fine, but who knows....... I have desided thouhg if i get tha Jimmy, I am going to go Orions for subs (yes Alaxan u made me do it!!!) eclipse for fronts and a 100% custom back component sustem. Everything but the amps comps, and maybe the Orions (both for now) will be new. Hopefully all goes well.

J

 
Originally posted by Trixter Try a passive. Remember I talked about this befor? I have been using this method for about 4 years a it seems to work great.

yea i remember u mentioning it. Got any pix of how they look internally, externally, etcx?

J

 
I have done it a few ways. The only pic I have is that one in my pic gallery. It does not show the passive but it faces the back seat, if you can imagine that. (If you fliped the seat down it would be right there.) I also have designed a box for my old Malibu. It had 3 12"s across the front and the passive facing the rear. In my old Cavalier I made a box with 2 12"s on each side and one of them was the passive.

What I did was make the box to spec for the drivers you are using (ie. 2 12" @ 1.5cu' ea.= 3 cu' box) But rather than 2 subs you make enough room to put in 3 and only hook up to two drivers. I like to make the largest box I can. A little poly fill, and your there!

(Just make sure that the passive can handle the power of you drivers or else you'll destroy it. And also remove the VC and replace the dust cap.)

 
How exactly does teh passive work? I see how you would hook up it up and everything. But how doesit make it louder or whatever? I'm still thinkin about my HE2's and doin that. I've got 3 and gettin a JBL 1200.1 here soon. Im gonna probly make a big 5 cubic inch box maybe bigger. I've got plenty of room. Does the passive lower the ohm load? What kind of sub could i take a part and handle 300 watts? If theres no voice coils why would it matter how much power it could handle? Im full of questions but i gotta get goin.

 
The passive is just a blown speaker I use. ( You can also buy them.) IT IS NOT HOOKED UP. You remove the VC to prevent any poping or scraping sound it may cause. (Like when you over excursion a sub...that sound.) Also snip off the tinsel leads. This will prevent you from possibly hearing them slap the back of the cone. The reason you need it to handle about the same power is because you don't want to crank it up and just blow the cone out from the surround.

The passive is moving strictly on the back pressure from the other subs. It's like running a sub for free. Think of it as a port when your building. It will not effct the ohms or power handeling or anything like that. The freq. response is still reling on the construction of the box and the other subs.

 
I don't know anyone that uses a passive in the car audio world. The guy that learned me about it did professional sound and light for concerts and he used them all the time.

I like the way it sounds in my car.

Let me know how it turns out and what you think.

 
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