I think the local shop screwed up the install, but I can't tell.

[Cheesemind]

JD was here

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[lilmaniac2 5,000+ posts]

Sounds like you need to find a better shop to install for you. I'm not going to get into the technical things that could be wrong, because I doubt you would be able to fix it yourself. Find another shop...

 

[LaserRed38 10+ year member]

Shouldn't have went back to that shop. And it's probably because you bought Audiobahns...

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

Any shop doesn't understand the Big 3, and simply settles for recommending more batts.... is a bunch of amateurs. Insist they fix the obvious stuff, then never ever go back to that shop again.

 

[DeboDaddy 10+ year member]

#1- Sounds like a cool DRL upgrade...

#2- Just a coincidence.

#3- Just a coincidence, you probably need a new key and tumbler mechanism.

The Big 3 is what you need, and then maybe another battery if this doesn't fix the dimming.

I wouldn't be suprised if your local shop recommended a large capacitor to fix your problem...

 

[05AztecRed 10+ year member]

Ok, basically I'm a total newb to car audio. I was given a system by a friend for a pretty good deal, I think anyways (Audiobahn 2300HCT amp, and 2 Audiobahn 1206T 12" for 400$ total).

bleh, but whatever...

1) Headlights permanently stay on if the car is on for some reason. Before the sensor would only turn the headlights on at night, and would keep them off in the daytime. Since the install, they stay on permanently.

2) If I play the music loud enough to where it dims my lights at all, when I step out of the car, it will shock me every time, whereas it never did that before.

3) My ignition key has a chip in it, and for some reason I can't get my key out of the car at random times (this never happened til the system). Here lately I've been playing the stereo at very low volume and I haven't had a problem getting the key out, but if I turn it up for any short length of time, my key will start glitching out again.

These are all items the shop NEEDS to fix since it is them who installed the system and SHOULD know what to do to prevent such things from happening. Don't take "no" for an answer. If need be, get a manager involved.

I've asked the shop if they would do the "big 3" for me and they gave me a wierd look like they never heard of doing such a thing, and assured me that all I would need is a 2nd battery hooked up into the trunk (which I don't have yet because they ran out of the special wire used for that??)

They're idiots. They SHOULD know what it is. There is no "special" wire. They can use the same brand 4ga or 1/0 used from the battery to the amp.

Has anyone experienced anything like this before?

Should've gone somewhere more reputable.

I had a 1998 Lincoln Mark 8 that I had this system installed into (by the same install shop) and within 2 months of getting the system installed (it was dimming the lights in it too) several major electrical parts of the car started to malfunction. I don't know if it was from me playing it even though it was dimming my lights, somehow screwing with the electrical system (Mark 8's are almost totally electrical) or if they're doing something wrong on the install.

It's all about install, and knowing how to troubleshoot.

Now when my car went to crap after the install, I wondered if it wasn't the stereo that did it, but without knowledge I just assumed the car was just about to go, and junked it and got a new car. But now that I'm encountering the same sort of problems with my new car, I'm really starting to wonder.
Any info would be helpful, thanks.

You junked a perfectly running car. All these issues you bring up are common problems that can be fixed.

 

[Canaan 10+ year member]

Ok...first off, what is the hot rating on your car's alternator?

~100A, right?

Well, you have an amp that is capable of drawing ~260A of current...so yes you need 1/0ga power and big-3 would help. A high-output alt would be a great upgrade also.

Try a new batt up front and one in the trunk. You do not need 'special' wire, just some 1/0ga power cable.

As for the stuff going wrong w/ the car...

how long have you had the vehicle?

The shocks are just static electricity. It is cold this time of year and less humid, because of that your vehicle is more likely to build up a static charge.

For the running lites, my just be a switch.

The key getting stuck, most likely from draining electrical system. The vehicle my be picking up the lower voltage and tripping out.

Get your electrical system up to par and all this should work out.

Also, please dear god....tell me that shop used 1/0ga power wire???

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

And yah, I even printed out the first page of the big 3 "how to" page, explaining what it is, and they said they never saw a reason to do that, and never had to before (and all the big time audio people all come to this shop). And they're just telling me to put a yellowtop in the back in my trunk and it'll solve all my problems.

So these "professional installers" think that GM/Ford/Toyota/etc all designed their wiring in the charging system to be able to accomodate the extra current flow generated by adding a large aftermarket stereo system?
Really getting discouraged at the number of disturbing posts about "professional" shops lately. And people wonder why the brick 'n mortor end of this industry is dying. A good portion of the 'pros' are people with not enough leisure time, brains, or ability to even learn the fundamentals of the industry in which they base their career. Pathetic.

 

[danz24 10+ year member]

find a friend who knows car audio, go back and discuss your problems. Either they will think themselves right, or admit they dont know. Also I dont know if it means much but is the shop MECP certified?

the dimming part is normal for a stereo upgrade though. It seems like your car has a history of electrical problems, one repair/problem can lead to another so it may not all be the installer fault.

 

[groundpound4200 5,000+ posts]

The JLs do rated power at any ohm so its gonna draw the current needed to produce that regardless of impedance.

Any reputable car part shop should be able to test your alternator

Also see if you can't get your car hooked up to get scanned by a diagnostic computer. When I did that to my Xterra there were a bunch of fault codes saying that the car had experienced low voltage. Maybe thats whats messin with your ignition system.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

1000/1 is grossly inefficient, by design. Sorry.

 

[Canaan 10+ year member]

Sorry to kinda go off track here, but WTF is up w/ 'good' shops building boxes w/ such tiny ****ing ports?

I mean dam...~5-7sq per cube w/ 700w+ per sub?

Can you say "port noise"?

 

[WhoSayWho? 5,000+ posts]

Really getting discouraged at the number of disturbing posts about "professional" shops lately. And people wonder why the brick 'n mortor end of this industry is dying. A good portion of the 'pros' are people with not enough leisure time, brains, or ability to even learn the fundamentals of the industry in which they base their career. Pathetic.

Agreed. Almost everything I know about car audio I learned right here and even I know more than most of the people in the shops I have visited. The last shop I was in the guy was showing me some comps that he said a guy was doing well with in SQ comps. I asked him if the guy was running them active or using the passive crossovers. He had no idea what I was talking about. He said you have to use the crossovers that come with the comps or you will burn up your tweets.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

Sorry to kinda go off track here, but WTF is up w/ 'good' shops building boxes w/ such tiny ****ing ports?
I mean dam...~5-7sq per cube w/ 700w+ per sub?

Can you say "port noise"?

Because these "pros" dont know the difference between required port area for round versus square ports. They loook up manufacturer recommendations, which is generally for ROUND ports, and build square ports accordingly. Im starting to think all the short-bus kids grew up to start local car audio shops.
Not understanding the need to upgrade factory wiring, never even heard of doing it... are you kidding me? And here I thought that shop last week that did the 2-sealed and 1-ported box was bad.

 

[desertheat 10+ year member]

Cheesemind;4114162]Ok, basically I'm a total newb to car audio. I was given a system by a friend for a pretty good deal, I think anyways (Audiobahn 2300HCT amp, and 2 Audiobahn 1206T 12" for 400$ total). You are definitly are a noob and did not research audio enough to know NOT to buy audiobling.

Well, I had it installed, and it sounds great, but it's dimming my lights like crazy and has started to cause electrical problems. Since I payed a local shop (best one in town supposedly) to install it, here are a few problems I've run across in my 2000 Grand Prix: If it was the best shop in town and they carry audiobahn, then you should move.

1) Headlights permanently stay on if the car is on for some reason. Before the sensor would only turn the headlights on at night, and would keep them off in the daytime. Since the install, they stay on permanently. GM vehicles are known to have issues over time with the light sensor on the dash. Installers could have pulled out the sensor or cut the wires possibly but I am betting the sensor is just toast.

2) If I play the music loud enough to where it dims my lights at all, when I step out of the car, it will shock me every time, whereas it never did that before. As stated before, most likley static discharge which is the #1 cause of cars blowing up as the gas pump. Your vehicle is DC not AC so with the car off, it is not possible that the car is shocking you.

3) My ignition key has a chip in it, and for some reason I can't get my key out of the car at random times (this never happened til the system). Here lately I've been playing the stereo at very low volume and I haven't had a problem getting the key out, but if I turn it up for any short length of time, my key will start glitching out again. A car will not hold a key inside it's ignition because of a chip. It will get stuck in the ignition if they key is warn out or the tumblers are damaged. Nothing at all to do with an audio install unless your thundering DB's of doom are screwing with the tumblers which is most likley a 1 in a million.

I've asked the shop if they would do the "big 3" for me and they gave me a wierd look like they never heard of doing such a thing, and assured me that all I would need is a 2nd battery hooked up into the trunk (which I don't have yet because they ran out of the special wire used for that??) ANY shop when installing any amp junk or not that can draw that kind of current should have at LEAST ran 1/0 gauge and upgraded your ground cable from the battery. Just standard practice.

Has anyone experienced anything like this before?

I had a 1998 Lincoln Mark 8 that I had this system installed into (by the same install shop) and within 2 months of getting the system installed (it was dimming the lights in it too) several major electrical parts of the car started to malfunction. I don't know if it was from me playing it even though it was dimming my lights, somehow screwing with the electrical system (Mark 8's are almost totally electrical) or if they're doing something wrong on the install. Sounds like your high wattage dreams played havok on your alternator and battery most likley killing the battery and causing issues or damage to the alternator as it was probably going full tilt all the time trying to keep up with a crap battery that had been drained with no reserve left.

Now when my car went to crap after the install, I wondered if it wasn't the stereo that did it, but without knowledge I just assumed the car was just about to go, and junked it and got a new car. But now that I'm encountering the same sort of problems with my new car, I'm really starting to wonder. It is possible your excessive draw on the electrical system is causing some damage over time to other components. Pretty much like purchasing a camp trailer to be towed by a dodge neon and then getting pissed off that the cars powertrane is going to crap.

Any info would be helpful, thanks.

Sorry if I come across blunt or rude but I tell it how it is. I used to have crazy people all the time blaming shops I worked at or the two I owned for the most retarded of things such as "spark plugs went bad, fuel injectors crapping out, mufflers leaking, headlights burning out... **** I am glad I sold my shops *LOL*