How to tune down to 30hz without going under rec. port area?

I thought you height was going to be the 14.5 or so it was before which is why I said 2 inches. Generally I try to stay below a 8:1 ratio of height to width. So at 14inches tall 2 wide is still alright. I wouldn't go any thinner or taller though. If it bugs you 2.25 would be almost the same lol.
Oh okay. Yeah I was planning on doing 14.5 tall, but when you suggested a 2" slot I figured that might put me under where I should be, yielding only 11.6 sq inches per internal cube. But yeah making up for it by going taller wouldn't be good either.

 
No if anything, make it a bit wider like I said, 2.25 would do fine. Most higher powered 15's are good with around a 3-4inch vent, 3 when around 1000 watts and 4 as power goes past that or the box to be on the large side. For a 12 I usually end up around 2inches wide and as high as 2.75-3, again depending on how much power they have on tap and what their goals are, box size etc. This is all assuming around a 12-13inch high vent for a 12 and a 14-16 for a 15, it's always a balancing act of getting the correct low level frequency response with enough to port to maintain linearity at high levels, working within a fixed space.

 
No if anything, make it a bit wider like I said, 2.25 would do fine. Most higher powered 15's are good with around a 3-4inch vent, 3 when around 1000 watts and 4 as power goes past that or the box to be on the large side. For a 12 I usually end up around 2inches wide and as high as 2.75-3, again depending on how much power they have on tap and what their goals are, box size etc. This is all assuming around a 12-13inch high vent for a 12 and a 14-16 for a 15, it's always a balancing act of getting the correct low level frequency response with enough to port to maintain linearity at high levels, working within a fixed space.
Ok cool. So basically I've been urged to not follow the box calculator, would you suggest I simply jump into this on pencil and paper after using a port length formula and your suggested port area?? Anything else I should know?

 
I was told by somebody in another thread I would need to do about 20^2 for the specific sub... seemed crazy but do you have any idea why that would be suggested?
Probably using a box design program vs real world experience. I've built a lot of boxes for FI subs and for daily set ups 12^2 works out very well 99% of the time.

There is NO way you want or need 20^2 of port per cube for what you're planning....

 
Ok cool. So basically I've been urged to not follow the box calculator, would you suggest I simply jump into this on pencil and paper after using a port length formula and your suggested port area?? Anything else I should know?
The RE calc is going to be really close. But yeah, I usually just calculate my actual airspace and pop it into WINISD and let it calculate the port length I need for desired tuning. Then measure out the actual port length I need to get me there and then adjust it in the RE calc for my cutsheets. That leaves a little fudge factor in tuning since the port length changes my net volume, but it's not usually a big deal unless you dealign with a very big port in a very small box which your not. Torres is supposed to be pretty accurate, so you can use that if you'd like.

 
What do you people even listen to that requires playing down into the low 20's?
You'd be suprised what has notes that low, it's one of those things when it's there you notice it, but if your not used it, you can live without it. Plus tuning in the low 30's upper 20's generally removes the "peak" near tuning and you end up with a very low playing fairly flat response. I find for music honestly, audibly flat response to 25hz is pretty much a necessity or I will notice it's missing. Maybe not on your typical rap songs that have a pretty much constant 40ish hz tone, but stuff that gets lower, you notice it, especially 25-32hz. People always mention where a song "peaks" on a termlab, but peaking and where it has bass are NOT the same thing. Do you really think a song that peaks at in the low 30's really has no bass below that? Of course not! My current box basically crushes anything from 20-50 and you can def notice when the SSF goes above 30hz. My last 2 setups used passive radiators, I can change tuning from 25-45 in literally a minute without taking any tools, so I've messed with tuning quite a bit. Mid 30's tuning generally does leave a bit to be desired on some songs and when it does come up lacking, you can hear it.

Anyway off the top of my head, the bottom note of put on is pretty low, TI's "let my beat pound" has a pulsing note in the beginning that most cars miss, obviously "love for money" and like I said, anything that has peaks down low like that has pretty strong audible notes down to around 25hz. Plus some people do it for the flat response too, generally if I tune a box low it's more to remove a peak than it is to crush 20hz. I know the build I just did for a friend, he wanted "loud and low", but I knew he didn't listen to that much low stuff, so I tuned him at 33hz. On all the songs I mentioned you can cleary tell he's missing notes compared to my car. However it's not stuff he usually listens to. I remember the first time I played the stuff I listen to in mycar like the screwed version of "on my level" in my car he about **** a brick lol. He's like WTF mine don't sound like that! So I showed him a song in the mid 40's where we are alot closer in SPL to show him the trade off. Then I retuned the passives for a mid to upper 30's to show him the trade off the other way, where I was now way louder than him on the mid 40's peaking song, but lost quite a bit of my low end crushing abilities.

For daily drivers I find 25-30hz tuning often works the best in terms of overall audible response. Just depends though, i've tuned as high as 35 for the right subs and car, it always comes down to the end response, the tuning that gets you there is just the means to the end.

 
You'd be suprised what has notes that low, it's one of those things when it's there you notice it, but if your not used it, you can live without it. Plus tuning in the low 30's upper 20's generally removes the "peak" near tuning and you end up with a very low playing fairly flat response. I find for music honestly, audibly flat response to 25hz is pretty much a necessity or I will notice it's missing. Maybe not on your typical rap songs that have a pretty much constant 40ish hz tone, but stuff that gets lower, you notice it, especially 25-32hz. People always mention where a song "peaks" on a termlab, but peaking and where it has bass are NOT the same thing. Do you really think a song that peaks at in the low 30's really has no bass below that? Of course not! My current box basically crushes anything from 20-50 and you can def notice when the SSF goes above 30hz. My last 2 setups used passive radiators, I can change tuning from 25-45 in literally a minute without taking any tools, so I've messed with tuning quite a bit. Mid 30's tuning generally does leave a bit to be desired on some songs and when it does come up lacking, you can hear it.
Anyway off the top of my head, the bottom note of put on is pretty low, TI's "let my beat pound" has a pulsing note in the beginning that most cars miss, obviously "love for money" and like I said, anything that has peaks down low like that has pretty strong audible notes down to around 25hz. Plus some people do it for the flat response too, generally if I tune a box low it's more to remove a peak than it is to crush 20hz. I know the build I just did for a friend, he wanted "loud and low", but I knew he didn't listen to that much low stuff, so I tuned him at 33hz. On all the songs I mentioned you can cleary tell he's missing notes compared to my car. However it's not stuff he usually listens to. I remember the first time I played the stuff I listen to in mycar like the screwed version of "on my level" in my car he about **** a brick lol. He's like WTF mine don't sound like that! So I showed him a song in the mid 40's where we are alot closer in SPL to show him the trade off. Then I retuned the passives for a mid to upper 30's to show him the trade off the other way, where I was now way louder than him on the mid 40's peaking song, but lost quite a bit of my low end crushing abilities.

For daily drivers I find 25-30hz tuning often works the best in terms of overall audible response. Just depends though, i've tuned as high as 35 for the right subs and car, it always comes down to the end response, the tuning that gets you there is just the means to the end.

You have tested and you actually know what 25hz is. My point is that every kid thinks they want "the lowz" and tune in the 20's on general principal. I've tuned in the 20's and 99% of the music I like I don't miss it at all. Considering when I was tuned 27hz I could play down to 18 it was pretty pointless except for watching movies.

 
Agreed on that. People often say they want "the lowz" when they really mean 30hz at the lowest and it's usually closer to 32-35hz that they really want, so for them, tuning at 27hz is probably pointless and they'd be much better served going a bit higher. I still find tuning lower than the mid 30's often makes things a bit more musical, but again that's all a sub and car dependent. Anytime someone says they want loud and low, I always try to define low, even if I can only get one or two song titles they listen to, it helps a lot.

 
Probably using a box design program vs real world experience. I've built a lot of boxes for FI subs and for daily set ups 12^2 works out very well 99% of the time.
There is NO way you want or need 20^2 of port per cube for what you're planning....
Real world is what matters. Thx for chiming in!

 
Agreed on that. People often say they want "the lowz" when they really mean 30hz at the lowest and it's usually closer to 32-35hz that they really want, so for them, tuning at 27hz is probably pointless and they'd be much better served going a bit higher. I still find tuning lower than the mid 30's often makes things a bit more musical, but again that's all a sub and car dependent. Anytime someone says they want loud and low, I always try to define low, even if I can only get one or two song titles they listen to, it helps a lot.
This was an interesting topic... makes me question how low I really need lol. Hard to know until you listen to your own music on that setup.. but I definitely don't listen to much hip-hop filled with superlow synthd bass tones..

 
This was an interesting topic... makes me question how low I really need lol. Hard to know until you listen to your own music on that setup.. but I definitely don't listen to much hip-hop filled with superlow synthd bass tones..
30hz is usually fine. Generall response doesn't drop too much in the 30-40hz region until you start tuning near the mid 20's. I find it's usually better to tune lower and simply have more bandwidth and slightly less SPL. Response is less peaky too, so you will sounder louder than it is, if that makes sense. 36hz tuning for example is going to sound much louder on most songs that play in the 40's, but when you do get a song like white girl that is mostly a 31hz tone, it'll sound that much worse because you'll be 1. used to your louder peaky response 2.playing below tuning where you've dropped off a bunch. If your tuned lower at 28-30, no you wont' be as loud at 40hz, but when you get down to 30hz, you'll maintain most of your SPL.. Balance counts for a lot in a daily system, IMHO. Always ***** when your buddy wants to demo a song that drops low as **** and you don't realize it and either bottom out or just can't play it right lol, been there done that.

 
30hz is usually fine. Generall response doesn't drop too much in the 30-40hz region until you start tuning near the mid 20's. I find it's usually better to tune lower and simply have more bandwidth and slightly less SPL. Response is less peaky too, so you will sounder louder than it is, if that makes sense. 36hz tuning for example is going to sound much louder on most songs that play in the 40's, but when you do get a song like white girl that is mostly a 31hz tone, it'll sound that much worse because you'll be 1. used to your louder peaky response 2.playing below tuning where you've dropped off a bunch. If your tuned lower at 28-30, no you wont' be as loud at 40hz, but when you get down to 30hz, you'll maintain most of your SPL.. Balance counts for a lot in a daily system, IMHO. Always ***** when your buddy wants to demo a song that drops low as **** and you don't realize it and either bottom out or just can't play it right lol, been there done that.
I'll probably go 31ish... another thing I've been wondering is wether I need any sort of internal bracing or anything? It's just 1 12 with 1.2kw at very best... and aside from that just use wood glue plus screws right?

 
What's the length of your longest non braced panel? Remember the port counts as bracing each way it will run. odds are with a slot port this box won't need any bracing. I'd double baffle and flush mount the front though for cosmetic reasons as well as a bit of extra strength

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

About this thread

ckunke002

10+ year member
Senior VIP Member
Thread starter
ckunke002
Joined
Location
Portland, OR
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
31
Views
3,157
Last reply date
Last reply from
bbeljefe
IMG_20260516_193114554_HDR.jpg

sherbanater

    May 16, 2026
  • 0
  • 0
IMG_20260516_192955471_HDR.jpg

sherbanater

    May 16, 2026
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top