How to pick out an amp?

[bbbblaah 10+ year member]

Hey all,

I am new to picking out amps for the subs based on optimal performance. I would like to know exactly what to look for in an amp without blowing the bank to get there. I am interested in quality hard hitting performance.

Right now I am looking to buy two Alpine SWR-1022D subs. I have read and heard that these are good subs and want to get the best bang with my amp for them. The specs on them are DVC 2ohm 1500W max 200-500W rms power range.

So what amp/what specs amp am I looking for and what is the best way to go about finding them. If theses subs **** what are some better ones? Also, what would be the best way to wire these so they hit hard and only need to run one amp, or if better, do I need to run 2?

Thanks all.

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[CobraStang98 10+ year member]

Do u have any kind of electrical upgrades?? HO alt, batteries, big 3, etc...

 

How much are u looking to spend??

 

Also those are very good subs for the price, so i'd stick with those. Just need to figure out those 2 questions and we can help u out.

 

[bbbblaah 10+ year member]

Thanks for the reply,

I have no electrical upgrades atm, I can upgrade if needed but I dont have alot of cash to work with right now.

 

[CobraStang98 10+ year member]

The Big 3 can be done for very cheap and helps alot. U can get a decent batt like a kinetik1400 or similar for like 150 or so.

 

A nice cheap amp for those subs would be something like a Hifonics 1208D, will do like 1000-1100 watts @ 1ohm and can be run on near stock electrical w/ no significant voltage drops. Can be had for under $200 bnib.

 

For that amp you would want to buy 2 Dual 4 ohm Type-Rs and wire them to a 1ohm final load.

The Type-Rs can take upwards of 750-1000 watts each rms daily and be fine. But they still do very well w/ 500-700 watts also.

 

[bbbblaah 10+ year member]

Cool, that seems to be a sick amp. Ill def. check into the Big 3. So when wiring, how do you connect the wires that run between the two subs?

Also, for the enclosure that I will build for these subs, I will want it to be ported correct? and if so, does the port go in each section assuming that the two subs will be separate in the box? So that is a total of two ports. Or does the box hold both subs without a divider? Sorry, still trying to figure out all the fine lines.

 

[LosDub 10+ year member]

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/woofer_wizard.asp?submitted=true&woofer_qty=2&woofer_imp=4

 

[CobraStang98 10+ year member]

Those subs love ported boxes... Something like 2.75ft3 @ 34hz w/ 35 sq in of port would be good for those subs. By no means is tht set in stone, just something i thought would work well with those woofers.

 

To make it easier on ya u can build ur enclosure w/ one common chamber w/ a single port... instead of two chamber w/ 2 ports. I've done seperate chambers before w/ much larger boxes just for bracing purposes, but w/ a smaller box like this, minimal bracing is needed. But a double baffle + a lil bracing will help out a good amount.

 

[bigbangtheory 5,000+ posts]

Cobrastang pretty much wrapped this thread up. Good advice!

 

[bbbblaah 10+ year member]

Thanks alot, you have been a great help. I hope to pick these up in the next few weeks (waiting on some paychecks and I have to do some engine work first).

So one more question, sorry to barrage you but I want to do this right. How do I set the tuning? Is this done by the port size.

Also, I am thinking of making the box like one I have seen where it has a vent in the middle with the vent walls semi closing off two sections. And does the vent have to be the same face as the sub mount, or can it be the adjacent face? What I mean by this is, my box will be in the back of the cab in an extended bed pickup and I want the subs to mount on top while angling slightly inwards and up at the same time and I would like to put the vent on the face that will be facing towards the back of the chairs, is this ok? Many thanks again.