How to get the, "kick" or "punch" feeling

psych0ticnemes1
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i guess i'm a bit confused on how to go about achieving the punch feeling.

I don't necessarily desire a LOUD setup... rather one that allows me to feel the bass. For rock music especially, with the drums and quick bass hits.

Would a good set of components provide this for me? or should i consider a sealed box setup?

Thanks

 
good set uf comps will really get that going but for your hair and seat to kick you need a good sub, even for that quick hard hit I still say a ported sub tuned to about 34hz or you would need twice the subs sealed.

 
That kick feeling is pretty high in freq. for a sub. If you can cross over your sub at something like 85 hz you'd deffinately feel it if you have the right box tuning for it.... problem is at that high a freq. you start having problems maintaining a balance in the sound staging.

 
....my sealed box has an effective tune of 38hz and it works great on rock.
i think i'll start with a good set of comps, like diamond m6's or something... if that isn't what i want, i'll try my sub sealed, but have been told i shouldn't seal the R

 
i think i'll start with a good set of comps, like diamond m6's or something... if that isn't what i want, i'll try my sub sealed, but have been told i shouldn't seal the R
What type of box is your sub in now? The proper installation of comps will have more to do with good kick than the comps themselves, 6-8 hours a door in many cases, see the sticky on the speaker forum. I was not too impressed with the midbass on the Diamonds, I have had better luck with CDT's. As far as that kick is concerned it really depends on exactly what freq we are talking about. Listen to Kick start my heart by Montley Crew (old I know) that is a pretty deep kick drum that the sub is responsible for....so it really depends.

http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=page.display&page_id=14&mfg_account_ID=21&category_id=10

 
I always like sealed boxs for certain subs to get the the 12w6v2's were great sealed. The type r's the newer once dont really give you the feeling like the jl's did though. Thats what my brother is running in his car now.

 
I agree on what HAVINGFUN said about treating your doors for your comps. Great comps can sound like **** in a bad install. on the other hand... cheap ones can sound amazing in the right situation.

you can try going for custom kick panels. it made a world of difference in my install.

 
I agree on what HAVINGFUN said about treating your doors for your comps. Great comps can sound like **** in a bad install. on the other hand... cheap ones can sound amazing in the right situation.
you can try going for custom kick panels. it made a world of difference in my install.
i wish i could... but don't have the time nor the patience... i believe some dynomat and solid baffles will be enough for me

 
i wish i could... but don't have the time nor the patience... i believe some dynomat and solid baffles will be enough for me

If you just do the basics you will be ok, just try to seal up holes in the door to keep the rear wave from the front wave if nothing else.

 
I had pretty good kick in my truck. I had MB Quart Reference (RCE-216) componenets in the door and next to those I also had MB Quart Reference mids which are the same speaker just without the tweeter and only 1 crossover instead of two.

 
you are describing midbass. effectivly ~125hz is where most of those 'kick' frequencies lie. your best bet is to upgrade your midwoofer\midbass to something that will play those frequencies with authority. there arent many optimal drivers for this application in cars today (for my tastes of midbas that is)

eaither they are 8ohm, or like 6" mounting depth, or like $200 each, they are just hard to find in general.

you are looking for a speaker that plays from 50hz~3000hz +\-3db, preferably 2ohm (for more power+cheaper amp), very shallow mounting depth so you can fit them in doors and kicks easy, and between 6.5 and 8 inches.

there are a few that come to mind;

the IDQ8 - problem is they are too rare, and they do have like 4~5" mounting depth - ive seen mint DVC4 pairs go for ~$500 on ebay.

Illusion Audio ND8i - again, simply too hard to find. front mounted neo motor for a 2.5" mounting delpth, dvc4 plays up to 3khz, great speaker, but it will cost you IF you can find them.

planet audio P8NEO - practically a clone of the illusion driver, again, not made anymore and hard to find. prolly cheaper tho.

critical mass MB82 - these are for sale on the critical mass site (listed as an LS82 - i was told that this is a typo) they are like $250 EACH tho. so you pay a preimium. similar to the illusion driver, but tweaked alot and they are supposed to be real nice. *this is what i plan on getting soon*

there are some seas drivers out there, some dayton drivers, some vifa drivers, all of these have pretty large mounting depths (4~6") and some of them are 8ohm - not to mention $150 per driver.

if you can afford $5~600 for a midbass driver, i highly recommend the critical mass (you can order them from the site, but again, it will cost a pretty penny). but i do not claim to have expierence with them. i talked to the tech guy wade for like 2 hours a few days ago and he told me everything i was hoping to hear.

also if you cant afford and cant fit midbass drivers, try a sealed box with a higher lowpass. i know my IDQ12's crossed at 90hz in an infinite baffle had some SERIOUS kick to them. i loved it. but i also had sealed glassed doorpods for some image dynamics CX62 midbass drivers playing from 90hz to 1.5khz, so im sure that helped lol //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
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