Hondas ELD bypass

audiobaun
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I bypassed the ELD in my 99 Honda CRV, and installed the toggle switch as well..seemed easy to do, but ended up taking some time, as expected, and completed.I have the question to those that have done the same.Is anyone experiencing any issues with the alt belt squeeking when its under load?I have replaced the Belt,checked tension, loose, tight, and still the same issue,though it may just be me?Belt dressing applied as well.Im not running an excessive amount of amperage draw,and have the big 3 done,and never had any issues with older Hondas/Acuras.Have extra batt in rear, and modified for a redtop under the hood,with removing the airbox to an air intake..plenty of juice it seems.Any info will be helpful..Thanks,,,could very well be the existing alternator, but 14.29 with DMM

 
audiobaun could you explain how you did this?
I followed a step by step thread from Keep_Hope_Alive..Ill see if I still have it, and post it up on here for you to utilize..I did go from a low 12.6 on low note, up to a 13.9 on a low note..I cant stand the smell of BabyPowder by the way..LOL,,,But Ill try a rag, and some Brakefluid instead

 
Just put a DC 270xp on my son's 2000 CRv and have no belt squeal.

Are you using a cheap belt? Squeal means the belt is slipping or not tracking properly. Assuming the alt is lined up properly, try adjusting it tighter. Might also need to pull the belt and clean out ALL of the pulleys as they get rusted/full of crud over time.

Ggoodyear gatorback or Gates Micro v are both supposed to help with squealing...

 
well i did not use any of the said methods i went straight for the kill - bought a 220 amp alt for my 2012 honda civic lx , i use 3 optima batteries as well - have 2 orion hcca 15s and 2 orion hcca 2500.1 lights never dim . i figured i was gonna buy a HO alternator soon so why bullshit around . just my 2 cents lol

 
well i did not use any of the said methods i went straight for the kill - bought a 220 amp alt for my 2012 honda civic lx , i use 3 optima batteries as well - have 2 orion hcca 15s and 2 orion hcca 2500.1 lights never dim . i figured i was gonna buy a HO alternator soon so why bullshit around . just my 2 cents lol
Dont think that bypasses the ELD still

 
I bypassed the ELD in my 99 Honda CRV, and installed the toggle switch as well..seemed easy to do, but ended up taking some time, as expected, and completed.I have the question to those that have done the same.Is anyone experiencing any issues with the alt belt squeeking when its under load?I have replaced the Belt,checked tension, loose, tight, and still the same issue,though it may just be me?Belt dressing applied as well.Im not running an excessive amount of amperage draw,and have the big 3 done,and never had any issues with older Hondas/Acuras.Have extra batt in rear, and modified for a redtop under the hood,with removing the airbox to an air intake..plenty of juice it seems.Any info will be helpful..Thanks,,,could very well be the existing alternator, but 14.29 with DMM
How was it man? Youll have to IM me later so we can talk about it a little... My belt is squeaking now as well but I think its the just a bearing in a pulley going out and is only when at idle...

 
battery light stays on , it has an internal regulator . it is bypassed 100% the alternator is not connected to the cars socalled brain , its only the 0 guage going directly to the battery . look it up installing a ho alt will bypass honda eld

 
battery light stays on , it has an internal regulator . it is bypassed 100% the alternator is not connected to the cars socalled brain , its only the 0 guage going directly to the battery . look it up installing a ho alt will bypass honda eld
installing an HO alt will not bypass the ECM and ELD when you use the stock wiring for field current control. The alternator requires field current in order to be "on". That field current needs to come from somewhere - and when using the stock harness input you do not bypass anything. Unless your H.O. alt has no connection to the stock wiring harness, but a different method of generating it's own field current, then the ECM and ELD will effect the installation.

Some H.O. alts may not require a connection to the stock harness. Those would indeed be isolated from the ECM and thus would not require an ELD bypass.

It only turns off the alt field current at specific times when ignition load is very low, and a few other inputs are just right. Unless you have a DMM in the car while driving and leave A/C and fans, etc. off you may not see it happen.

 
note that the ELD Bypass I developed will behave no differently than stock when the switch is off, and behave no differently than stock with adequate ignition load when the switch is on.

squeaking under load can be the result of belt choice. when the alt is under load it is much harder to turn. if the belt slips, voltage will dip and current output will dip. it may not be the result of the belt, but simply the bearings in the alt. I swapped out my stock for a re-built stock and its bearings are noisy (even idle no load) - hasn't change for 3 years.

 
How was it man? Youll have to IM me later so we can talk about it a little... My belt is squeaking now as well but I think its the just a bearing in a pulley going out and is only when at idle...
I really cant see that much of a change, even with lights on..ect.Other than that it keeps up a little better.up to 14.2v..My belt squeaks too at times especially at idle..It does that due to needing more juice do to the draw which is putting a strain on the alt,is about all I can come up with.Im gonna get that biugger alt, and see if that makes any changes come about.Have that big3 done, and pulled out bthat airbox and made a spot to put a reg sized batt/redtop,and put cold air on direct,to get that .50 mile per gall back.

 
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audiobaun

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