Honda ELD Warning

gunz4me
10+ year member

Goodbye!
For all you guys rolling 1996 through 2000, or later, Honda vehicles I want to warn you about a little thing called ELD. For the US Domestic Market our lovely tree hugging eco-weenies seemed to think it was a great idea to integrate an Electrical Load Detector that senses the vehicle's demand from the fuse box and adjust the alternator's output voltage accordingly.

What does this mean for you as a Honda owner? Well, when the ELD kicks in, I measured voltage as low as 12.3 down from 14.5 to 14.7 volts with the fusebox under a light load. Also, it didn't take me long to **** a Kinetik HC1400 dry by playing loud for an extended period of time:verymad:

Here is the kicker, since most of us wire our sound systems directly to the battery, the ECU NEVER knows what load is being placed from that side of the system since it only detects draw through the factory fuse box. A 170 AMP high output alternator was rendered useless after about 15 minutes of driving when the ELD circuit essentially shut it off to "save fuel". Trust me, at 12.3 volts, you aren't charging jack!

There are ways around the ELD in the older Hondas provided you can find someone to re-program your ECU to ignore the ELD. If you have the P2P ECU, you are SOL:( I also thought about trying to trick my ELD into thinking there was a load on the electrical system through the fusebox, but correct technical data on the ELD circuit itself is hard to find.

 
For all you guys rolling 1996 through 2000, or later, Honda vehicles I want to warn you about a little thing called ELD. For the US Domestic Market our lovely tree hugging eco-weenies seemed to think it was a great idea to integrate an Electrical Load Detector that senses the vehicle's demand from the fuse box and adjust the alternator's output voltage accordingly.
What does this mean for you as a Honda owner? Well, when the ELD kicks in, I measured voltage as low as 12.3 down from 14.5 to 14.7 volts with the fusebox under a light load. Also, it didn't take me long to **** a Kinetik HC1400 dry by playing loud for an extended period of time:verymad:

Here is the kicker, since most of us wire our sound systems directly to the battery, the ECU NEVER knows what load is being placed from that side of the system since it only detects draw through the factory fuse box. A 170 AMP high output alternator was rendered useless after about 15 minutes of driving when the ELD circuit essentially shut it off to "save fuel". Trust me, at 12.3 volts, you aren't charging jack!

There are ways around the ELD in the older Hondas provided you can find someone to re-program your ECU to ignore the ELD. If you have the P2P ECU, you are SOL:( I also thought about trying to trick my ELD into thinking there was a load on the electrical system through the fusebox, but correct technical data on the ELD circuit itself is hard to find.
i already know about this.

180amp HO alt on smaller pully, stock front batt, kinetick2400 in rear, no system in car other than my components, voltage will idle at 11.8 80% of the time while i drive w/o running a load(A/C,Headlights,Braking,ETC)

on a side note, run your a/c on low, it'll give you a load and allow the ALT to kick on and charge.

another way to get a full charge is to drive over 60mph(for me at least).

edit for voltage change, lol, 19volts. must be insane i tell ya.

 
getting a one wire alt would bypass that whole issue...seeing as the only wire you put in is wire to fuse and and wire to battery(provided you did big 3 also...like recommended)...use no wiring harness plug for the alt...

 
getting a one wire alt would bypass that whole issue...seeing as the only wire you put in is wire to fuse and and wire to battery(provided you did big 3 also...like recommended)...use no wiring harness plug for the alt...
There is a little more to it than that but basically that is the idea.

 
getting a one wire alt would bypass that whole issue...seeing as the only wire you put in is wire to fuse and and wire to battery(provided you did big 3 also...like recommended)...use no wiring harness plug for the alt...
tis true but think you can find a 1 wire alty that can fit in a civic w/o any modding?

 
well see my alt is regulated on it...so no need for the wiring harness plug...

fbi...there is a guy in pembroke pines that chips and tunes ecu's so he can bypass the eld and make your car run better.

 
well see my alt is regulated on it...so no need for the wiring harness plug...

fbi...there is a guy in pembroke pines that chips and tunes ecu's so he can bypass the eld and make your car run better.
cost and reputation?

i don't trust peoples work on my vehicle anyore

 
getting a one wire alt would bypass that whole issue...seeing as the only wire you put in is wire to fuse and and wire to battery(provided you did big 3 also...like recommended)...use no wiring harness plug for the alt...
If you don't do something to disable the ELD in the ECU you will throw a CEL and the car will go into limp mode. Sadly, it isn't as simple as this //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 
My 1997 throws a CEL.... Ask me how I know....

Regardless, I have a ODB2a to ODB1 conversion harness as well as a chipped P28 ECU on its way to me, so ELD will be a thing of the past come next week!

 
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gunz4me

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