High-response woofer shenanigans?

surreal
10+ year member

On my katy perry sht
Ive got my DD 3515 in a ~4cu box, tuned to about 34hz. It gets decently low and pretty loud but I dont get the high end response I would like. Some of the notes in Red Nose (Tech N9ne) and such I used to really enjoy just arent there.

So, I plan on taking somewhat of a SQ approach. Ill cut the 3500 at about 80hz, and throw in a sealed sub for 70-120hz or so. My problem is, Ive absolutely no trunk space left with my extra battery in there already.

I have a few options:

1) Build a small box for an 8" to sit ON my read deck under my windshield. Angle it up in a triangle so the sub sits at a slant and hopefully I can still see out my rear windshield. This is hard because theres little working space and id probably need a shallow mount sub (bad!)

2) Cut a hole in the metal shell/chassis of my trunk roof to mount the sub INTO my trunk. This would be the cleanest solution, and I could easily mount a 10" sub for the output Id prefer. I just sit weary of cutting up my car.

3) Seal off a corner of my current box or attempt to add a small corner to it where the high-end driver would sit. I currently have a 24.5x38x9.5" (internal) box with ~62" port area and I think it was 18" long port. So that should be about 3.8cubes box if I remember right.. I dont have much to take from unless I can add to a corner where the very front of my trunk dips out on the sides.

What do you all think? Im open to any questions, comments, criticisms, and so on. Its very likely ill have either a DD 1008 or DD 510 for this setup in a relatively small sealed box.

Phew, thanks guys.

 
I could do two 6.5 woofers in the rear. But I like the idea of a custom project. If I dont mix the subs (have one for lows, other highs) then that should be a correctly dont sub-mix setup. Not a big deal.

Would appreciate some actual input though. And yes, you can read/fap at the same time. FACT!

Edit - I was also worried if I did the 6.5 woofers, that the low bass and such would drone it out. Similar to my speakers.. I was hoping for a bit more output for the range, and dont care much about them handling anything 120hz and above at all really.

 
I would have my sub play 70hz below and mid sub play 70-150. sucks you cant get they highs out of it. sukcs you can't fit a small box, i have 6.5 comps in my room with transmission line boxes(85hz) and the mid-bass/mid range is excellent. For 2 6.5's i can feel the tom(drum) over the sub playing really low and my windows shaking. small sealed will get you that higher bass too. I would say one 8 should suffice. It would be a lot easier to get a proper sub to do it though.

 
Thats what Im thinking. It would have to be a DD sub though.

Any idea as to if a 1008 or maybe even a 1508 in a sealed box ~.8 / 1cu would sound alright and have decent output? Given this will hopefully be IN my cabin it wont be stuffed in my trunk.

 
Thats what Im thinking. It would have to be a DD sub though.
Any idea as to if a 1008 or maybe even a 1508 in a sealed box ~.8 / 1cu would sound alright and have decent output? Given this will hopefully be IN my cabin it wont be stuffed in my trunk.
1 cu ft sounds too big for an 8 in a sealed box. Do E8s as they will probably sound better sealed than the 1508s

 
Thats what Im thinking. It would have to be a DD sub though.
Any idea as to if a 1008 or maybe even a 1508 in a sealed box ~.8 / 1cu would sound alright and have decent output? Given this will hopefully be IN my cabin it wont be stuffed in my trunk.
why a DD sub? to play that high most subs wont need much excursion or power. I would check out PE.com and choose something somewhat cheap.

 
Thats actually what I was doing. The Tang Band and a few others look quite popular.

Technically, Im supposed to stay DD woofers/speakers as Ive a sponsorship of sorts through my local dealer I guess.

Ill be replacing my rear deck with an MDF/plywood replacement soon hopefully. Perhaps I can throw some vents in and create a mounting location for a sub. Ill keep this thread updated if/when any work goes down.

Thanks guys.

 
Midbass is localizable, and should be in the front stage, not coming from behind you. You can run seperate midbass drivers from the real parcel shelf, or even from the sub enclosure, but I wouldnt call that the SQ approach.

Run a 3-way front stage with dedicated midbass drivers, running the subs up to only 50 or 60hz, the midbass from 60-250hz (play with that), that is the SQ approach.

 
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surreal

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On my katy perry sht
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