Hifonics 2010D BXI stuck in protect mode, suggestions?

[xmakeafistx 10+ year member]

The amplifier was being put to use on an RE8 wired at 8 ohms previously, so no abuse whatsoever..

Anyway, I sold the RE8 a few weeks ago, and its just been sitting in my trunk. I received my DD 9515e today, and thought i'd try to free air it to see how it goes.

When I tried I was disappointed to find out that my amp goes straight into protect mode, with the sub wired in, and without the sub wired in. When the amp starts up, it makes that popping sound it normally does, and the green light is there for a split second, then goes straight into protect.

I am unaware of what could have caused this so suddenly, but i'm hoping its a fast fix. Has anybody ever had this problem before? The wiring is exactly how it was while it was working, so I don't really foresee that being a problem.

I'm looking up and down the board and there are no burn marks, and nothing smells like it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, I was really excited to finally get another build going, and this is just kind of a downer.

I am aware Hifonics isn't anywhere near the best brand for amplifiers, or anything for that matter. I do not need to be reminded, I just want it fixed because it is a use able piece of equipment.

Thanks all for the help in advance, I have an o scope and a DMM if needed.

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[Infaredsinsor 10+ year member]

Virtually all amplifiers have some sort of active protection circuit. Most have the following types of protection circuits:

Overview of the Most Common Circuits:

Over-Current Protection:

Over-current protection is typically used to shut down the amplifier if too much current flows through the output transistors. The most common circuits monitor the voltage across the emitter resistors. When the voltage becomes too high (due to high current flow), a transistor switches on and tells the amplifier to shut down.

Thermal Protection:

Thermal protection shuts the amplifier down when it gets too hot. Typically, only the temperature of the heatsink is monitored. If the heatsink is large, there will likely be more than one thermal sensor. In some cases, the temperature of the large filter capacitors and the temperature of the transformer are also monitored. The most common thermal sensor is an NTC thermistor. Some amplifiers use snap action thermostats but they are not too common in the newer amplifiers.

DC Offset Protection:

DC offset protection shuts the amplifier down when there is an unacceptable level of DC on the speaker output terminals. Generally, the feedback circuit keeps the DC offset well within acceptable levels but sometimes a component will fail which will cause the DC voltage on the output terminals of the amplifier to become high enough to destroy the speakers. Before any speakers are damaged, the DC offset protection circuit shuts the amplifier down.

 

[xmakeafistx 10+ year member]

thanks for all of that man, it could be the DC offset, it seems like the only consistent one.. I'm not running high voltage at all either.

 

[xmakeafistx 10+ year member]

Just tried unplugging/plugging back in. still doesn't work.

Bleh, leaves me sour.

 

[Timmothy Web 10+ year member]

give it to me!

 

[xmakeafistx 10+ year member]

Lol, not giving it away definitely.

I'd pay for a repair before I'd do that.. sorry? lol.

EDIT: Unless you mean for repair, I may have misread it, hahah.

 

[Timmothy Web 10+ year member]

i can do that too... but i love these amps!!!

 

[Timmothy Web 10+ year member]

let me know.

 

[akheathen Premium Member]

reallly, you love bxi? i love zr1000...... hmmmmm. anyways, try ohming the speaker terminals as-is. try poering it up without the speaker terminals attached. if it does, then measure for dc on the speaker terminals. last, disconnect it and let it discharge for a day, then see if it will come back to life. i have seen many amps enter protect being hooked back up, and then later power up just fine, never to have a problem again.

 

[Timmothy Web 10+ year member]

yea ive ran the ones i rebuilt under .5 ohms. and the amp is still going. its a test amp for now using different parts. i have a 1600w running two quad 1 ohm mojo 15s. and the amp has lasted 4 months now.

 

[Timmothy Web 10+ year member]

i had a rz1000 to repair. the guy hasnt used it yet. but that amp is a beast.

 

[akheathen Premium Member]

i keep missing out on any zr that came up in my price range. would actually prefer blown, so i don't feel so bad when i replace half the parts to freshen it up, lol. would really like 2 tbh.

 

[Timmothy Web 10+ year member]

i might try to get it. he doesnt know what he have. he got it for 50 bucks. he thought it was working lol.

 

[CAT MAN 5,000+ posts]

unplug all power and speaker connections and run a jumper on the amps pos to the neg . it will get rid of any power left in it and more than likely reset the code

 

[xmakeafistx 10+ year member]

without the speaker terminals attached? I'm really nubby, or I could just be reading this wrong lol.

Run a jumper?

Like I get exactly what you guys are saying, just disconnect and rid of any power so it will reset, but just the obstacle is how.

Thanks for all your patience guys, you really are saving me here. I'm a little new to the whole fixing amp game here.

If nothing goes well, I've decided I'll just ship out to Tim for a rebuild //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif