hey B&w

[1loudsuv 10+ year member]

well rather then pm you, i rather post this question here and for others that might know. so just in case others want to know in the future.

ok with your 703 what is the best amp you can get for them? how terrible is the krell 3250 matched with them? would the rotel 1095 be better? oh yah what about this parasound amp matched with them?

http://www.parasound.com/halo/a52.php

what about the 804s? do they like the same type of amp?

no pro audio amps thylantr //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif

Click to read more...

 

[joetama 5,000+ posts]

Well...

Krell is not bad, don't get me wrong, but I (and a lot of other people) do not particualarly like the Krell sound with B&W Loudspeakers.

The best amps to run are the Rotels if you are on a budget, Classe or McIntosh.

I'll post more when I'm not a little drunk and can form a complete thought... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 

[ballstothewall 10+ year member]

Qsc. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[thylantyr 10+ year member]

no pro audio amps thylantr

Get out of your endless loop.

x = 0;

do {

x = x + 0;

} while (x

Get a pair of PLX3402. Set both for bridge mode for 2ch audio.

{260 volts of headroom not couting output stage losses}

Find me a home amp with this ability for $550 - $700 each.

Then do the speaker audition until you find the sound you like.

Your method: If your speaker is constant and you swap amps, you are never going to

get out of that loop. {unless you reboot the brain to jump out of the dark ages

of home audio} /evil/

 

[1loudsuv 10+ year member]

hahaha

someones has been watching star wars one to many times lol

but seroiusly is their ANY pro audio amps that are good but dont have any fans? any fan noise annoys the hell of out me. the ps3 sure does...

 

[ballstothewall 10+ year member]

hahaha
someones has been watching star wars one to many times lol

but seroiusly is their ANY pro audio amps that are good but dont have any fans? any fan noise annoys the hell of out me. the ps3 sure does...

Mod the fans then.

 

[thylantyr 10+ year member]

If you are driving 8 ohm speakers, you can probably install a

toggle switch to disable the fan. It's an easy load. I wouldn't

expect much heat generated, it's a more efficient class H design, a

class AB amp with two tier power supply.

I remember reading about people using the Crown XLS402 {big AVS thread},

some folks just disconnect the fans, many did the fan mod to reduce fan

speed which reduces air flow, a few replaced the fans with 'quiet fans'

which too is CFM limited.

.. and XLS {version A - C amps} had very crappy heatsink design.

http://home.pacbell.net/lordpk/proamps/Crown_XLS-402A.jpg

XLS version D is better.

http://home.pacbell.net/lordpk/proamps/Crown_XLS-402D.jpg

.. but PLX is even better.

http://home.pacbell.net/lordpk/proamps/QSC_PLX3402-3.jpg

Those are very good sinks.

If you disable the fan, it should work fine.

or just remove the fan/shroud housing to allow the sinks to vent better,

convection cooling.

http://home.pacbell.net/lordpk/proamps/QSC_PLX3402-5.jpg

amp with fan/shroud in place;

http://home.pacbell.net/lordpk/proamps/QSC_PLX3402-1.jpg

You know, there are many PLX's on the used market, they've been in the

field forever. Now that PLX2 and PL3 came to market, the PLX users get

the upgrade itch and will sell PLX at lower prices than the last year or two

to get the latest model. But PLX2 is 99.9% the same as PLX in regards to

the power and amp stages. lol ..

So... my point is. Lets say you snagged one for $600... Try it out for a few

months. If you don't like it, put it back on ebay and get 90% of you money

back.

QSC resale value is good.

You can operate these amps at 2 ohm/ch {4 ohm bridged}, but if the system

is active, I drive under 1 ohm load on tweeters in bridged mode and 2 ohm midranges

in bridge mode, but you can cheat like this running woofers. The amp is robust

enough to handle some abnormal situations, other amps will complain {QSC RMX, Crown XLS,

Behringer EP series, and I doubt the new Crown XTI can hang from the internal pics I've seen, etc}.

 

[1loudsuv 10+ year member]

my towers are 4 ohms and so is the center channel. says different online but thats waht i get with the meter. and no the meter isnt broken lol

i do like the qsc dont get me wrong but if their gonna add any noise due to fans then i rather not chooce that. ive learned one thing with the krell. to spend more on speakers then amps if on a budget. so using the qsc's would be good budget wise so i can buy better towers //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif maybe even some 803s but like i said noise noise noise i hate it.

 

[ballstothewall 10+ year member]

Did I just see QSC and budget in the same sentence?? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[thylantyr 10+ year member]

my towers are 4 ohms and so is the center channel. says different online but thats waht i get with the meter. and no the meter isnt broken lol
i do like the qsc dont get me wrong but if their gonna add any noise due to fans then i rather not chooce that. ive learned one thing with the krell. to spend more on speakers then amps if on a budget. so using the qsc's would be good budget wise so i can buy better towers //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif maybe even some 803s but like i said noise noise noise i hate it.

Your meter reads 4 ohms, then your speakers are probably ~6 ohm impedance,

an easy load. What type of fan noise are you talking about? The wind noise

or noise that makes it's way into the audio? I don't hear any fan noise leaking

into the audio, the wind noise is just a matter of turning off the fans.

The QSC PLX driving 6 ohm sepeakers would actually outperform the majority

of home amps on the market in the clipping headroom category. It's class AB

output stage, SQ is the same as any good home amp with a class AB stage.

There is very little difference from proamp circuit topology vs. home audio

topology, the proamps just have a smaller size chassis to cram the power in,

hence they use class H power supply. Plus, they don't use huge heatsinks because they don't fit, so they install the fans. But these amps are also rated

down to 2 ohm/ch. If you don't push them hard, they don't get hot and you

don't need the fans turned on. The other thing that you get with proamps

vs. home amps is more features. Clipping indicators, subsonic filters, gain

controls, limiters {on/off}, etc.

You could take a $600 PLX, take it apart and put the guts in a standard high

end home audio amplifier chassis, reloated the output stage transistors to

the big heatsinks {no fans} and scam people into thinking it's a $5000 home amp. They would never know from an SQ point of view. It would actually

perform better due to it's higher headroom.

How many home amps do you know of that cost $600, is class H, SMPS,

has gain controls, and clipping lights? lol

Fear..... more beer

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif

 

[envengineer 10+ year member]

I don't think you can say any one amplifier company has the best synergy with all B&W loudspeakers. I personally have used NAD, Adcom, Audio Research, McCormack, Mark Levinson and Rotel amps with B&W speakers. The Audio Research and Mark Levinson were my favorites, but they were with different sets of speakers.

FWIW, I've decided to try the DIYaudio route for a while. There is a lot of sound to be had for very little money + some effort.

 

[joetama 5,000+ posts]

DCR and the real impedance of a speaker are two totally different things //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 

[1loudsuv 10+ year member]

DCR and the real impedance of a speaker are two totally different things //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

How do you find the "real impedance"

only thing I know is I would order a DD with dual 1 ohm coils and it each coil would read .9 ohms, also testing reactive impedance

 

[thylantyr 10+ year member]

DCR; use an ohm meter {DMM}

Impedance; varies with frequency so it can be a variable or could be fixed.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_impedance

 

[joetama 5,000+ posts]

Woofer Tester is really the only way I know of to cheaply find the actual impedance....

It sweeps the frequencies and tests the impedance and phase at the different frequencies... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif