Hertz HSK 165 on PPI P900.4

[Jakerrr 10+ year member]

Just ordered a set of Hertz HSK 165 components, they'll be at my house in a few days, and I recently bought a PPI P900.4. I'm not sure if these comps are bi-ampable, but I'll assume they are for now. I will not be running rears because I figured it would allow me to save more money, increase SQ, and allow more bass to vent into the cabin by taking out the rear deck speakers. I did some research and it seems bridging is usually preferable, mainly because you get more power and headroom, but I already have more than enough power. I can either bridge and get 450w x 2 or bi amp and get up to 145w for each of the 4 speakers in the component set. I will be doing time alignment and bi amping would help with this as I can control each speaker's delay on separate channels. The front left tweeter and front left door speaker locations are both very close to 43 inches from my ears, and both right speakers are similar distanced as well, about 56 inches. So what would be optimal in this situation? I want them loud as possible without hurting them, and I have no experience with these so idk how much power they can take.

Mainly want to know how much power they can take and what's optimal power for them, and whether bi amping or bridging would be optimal given the above scenario.

Click to read more...

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

you'll probably get better SQ and loudness if you use the 4 channels individually per driver. the woofers should be able to take every bit of that power clean, but the tweeters wont like it one bit so you'll need to keep the gain low and not give them any more than 50w rms or so. someone whos used those tweeters active before can hopefully provide insight into their realistic power handling

the important thing here is clean power, one little bit of clipping at those power levels will cause extreme amounts of heat. i highly recommend using an oscilloscope to set your gain with a 0db test tone for the mids, and use the DMM method to power the tweets with less power.

 

[Jakerrr 10+ year member]

you'll probably get better SQ and loudness if you use the 4 channels individually per driver. the woofers should be able to take every bit of that power clean, but the tweeters wont like it one bit so you'll need to keep the gain low and not give them any more than 50w rms or so. someone whos used those tweeters active before can hopefully provide insight into their realistic power handling
the important thing here is clean power, one little bit of clipping at those power levels will cause extreme amounts of heat. i highly recommend using an oscilloscope to set your gain with a 0db test tone for the mids, and use the DMM method to power the tweets with less power.

I'm not too worried about clipping considering I have a ton of power for these things and the gain will likely be set far below clipping level. When I bi amp, though, would the amp be seeing around 2 ohms per channel? 4? Because each side for these comps is 4ohms, and sending 2 channels per side would cause the amp to see just the impedance load of each individual speaker right? Or maybe the channels connected to the tweets would see 8 ohms and the channels connected to the woofers would see around 4? Not too sure about that

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

I'm not too worried about clipping considering I have a ton of power for these things and the gain will likely be set far below clipping level. When I bi amp, though, would the amp be seeing around 2 ohms per channel? 4? Because each side for these comps is 4ohms, and sending 2 channels per side would cause the amp to see just the impedance load of each individual speaker right? Or maybe the channels connected to the tweets would see 8 ohms and the channels connected to the woofers would see around 4? Not too sure about that

what are each of the drivers labelled as? usually its a 4 ohm driver and tweeter. if you have one driver per channel each channel will see that load only, i.e. a 4 ohm driver will present a 4 ohm load (besides rise and other factors, its safe to say 4 ohms though in the case of mids/highs). the only time you're going to get a different impedance (besides on music, duh) is if you wire in series or parallel. thats the only time unless you get significant rise from small wire or terminal connections (really its negligible).

 

[Jakerrr 10+ year member]

But I thought the components were 4 ohms per side, tweeter and woofer included? Otherwise the amp wouldn't actually see 4 ohms if 1 ch was going to each side right?

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

But I thought the components were 4 ohms per side, tweeter and woofer included? Otherwise the amp wouldn't actually see 4 ohms if 1 ch was going to each side right?

that's with the passive crossover, you need to find out what each driver is without the crossover.

 

[Jakerrr 10+ year member]

that's with the passive crossover, you need to find out what each driver is without the crossover.

I will still be using the crossover, I'm not running active right now. Just bi amping via the crossover. That's where I don't know how to find the resistance etc

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

I will still be using the crossover, I'm not running active right now. Just bi amping via the crossover. That's where I don't know how to find the resistance etc

that's different then, bi amping should still net you a 4 ohm load per channel but i would check with the manual. it will tell you the implications of bi amping - every crossover is different

 

[The Camry]

i give my esk line 150rms for my mid and then 150 for my tweet. gains on my tweet are bare minimum(5 volt HU).

as far im concerned. i run a cap on my tweets to protect from dc pops or whatever else, and throw as much power as you want at them, just know your X-overs.