Help me please. I'm a newbie in setting up audio.

If I were you, for the sub I would go with 1 12" alpine type-r 2ohm (does 500watts rms w/ 1500watt peak) and I would go with an amp that does around 750 watts rms. (Its always better to have headroom, meaning more power then the sub needs so you can upgrade in the future, and so you don't have to worry about blowing your sub.) As far as the headunit, any will do just do some research. I personally like just about all the alpine headunits, although I am going to buy a Pioneer Premier later tomorrow. If you want to buy component speakers I would go with Phoenix gold comps (really inexpensive) and I would run a 2 channel 200 watt amp to those.

You can purchase all of this off of woofersetc.com (I am about to spend $700 there tomorrow on an alarm, 1 12",amp and headunit tomorrow)

 
i take it when you say 800 watts its actually about 400rms (true watts) so if i was you id probably run a 600 watt amp 1 channel mono class D amp.

and you can mount your tweeters anywhere you want just be sure to be able to tuck the wires so they cant be seen

 
dont even ask questions. you know nothing. use the searchbar and over look these forums from top to bottom. then think of a budget. your figuring 50$ for a wiring kit which you will need 4 gauge (read up on sizes and why you need them), learn what to connect it to. then learn about ohms, and how to wire a subwoofer. then learn about watts. then pick out a sub you look in your price range and buy an amp preferably with twice the amount of watts peak. rms is the number of watts a subwoofer can handle all the time. peak is the amount its labeled at where it wont work anymore because its too much power. imo get a sub like kenwood or rockford and an amp like mtx, hifonics, or soundstorm since you really dont know anything. its not good to spend a **** ton of money and not know what your doing possibly making a big bonfire if you get a short or something somewhere

 
Thanks Ohioguy. That's what I am doing right now. I am confused because I read a post stating

For example, if a sub has an RMS wattage rating of 100 watts, you'll want to pair it with an amp that produces an RMS wattage output of 100 watts. The sub will be able to perform at its maximum rating, and the amp won't overwork itself to drive the sub.
Result? Solid, clean bass.

Source: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-1ELcjVp9WcZ/app/learn/article/default.aspx?pp=T&page=All&aid=476&articlegroupid=81
So yeah, I am confused. Sorry guys, I am new to this.

 
Which is better, sir? Sub's RMS is greater than the Amp's RMS or the other way around, Amp's RMS is greater than the Sub's RMS. So yeah, I'm low on budget and I'm planning to have this set-up:

Amp: 1507 90wrms x 4channel / 360wrms/1440 peak

Speaker: Targa X652c 6.5" 80 x 2wrms

Sub: Targa x100i 10" 120wrms 240peak

Is it ok to have 705 60wrms x 4channel / 240wrms/960 peak than 1507 90wrms x 4channel / 360wrms/1440 peak?

Another thing, should I drop the Targa X652c 6.5" 80 x 2wrms and change it with another Targa x100i 10" 120wrms 240peak for double sub, since either 705 or the 1507 amp can power two subs without any problem. If I'll use 1507, 2 channels, which is 90wrms*2 = 180wrms and is greater than the rms of the sub, can power the other sub, and the remaining two channels can power the other sub as well. While with 705, 2 channels, 60wrms*2 = 120wrms and is equal with the sub's rms, it can power one sub and the remaining two channel can power the other sub as well.

I hope to hear comments and suggestions from you guys. TIA:) *cheers*

 
Which is better, sir? Sub's RMS is greater than the Amp's RMS or the other way around, Amp's RMS is greater than the Sub's RMS. So yeah, I'm low on budget and I'm planning to have this set-up:
Amp: 1507 90wrms x 4channel / 360wrms/1440 peak

Speaker: Targa X652c 6.5" 80 x 2wrms

Sub: Targa x100i 10" 120wrms 240peak

Is it ok to have 705 60wrms x 4channel / 240wrms/960 peak than 1507 90wrms x 4channel / 360wrms/1440 peak?

Another thing, should I drop the Targa X652c 6.5" 80 x 2wrms and change it with another Targa x100i 10" 120wrms 240peak for double sub, since either 705 or the 1507 amp can power two subs without any problem. If I'll use 1507, 2 channels, which is 90wrms*2 = 180wrms and is greater than the rms of the sub, can power the other sub, and the remaining two channels can power the other sub as well. While with 705, 2 channels, 60wrms*2 = 120wrms and is equal with the sub's rms, it can power one sub and the remaining two channel can power the other sub as well.

I hope to hear comments and suggestions from you guys. TIA:) *cheers*
You should provide links. I could read that 20 times and still have no idea what you're asking.

 
dont even ask questions. you know nothing. use the searchbar and over look these forums from top to bottom. then think of a budget. your figuring 50$ for a wiring kit which you will need 4 gauge (read up on sizes and why you need them), learn what to connect it to. then learn about ohms, and how to wire a subwoofer. then learn about watts. then pick out a sub you look in your price range and buy an amp preferably with twice the amount of watts peak. rms is the number of watts a subwoofer can handle all the time. peak is the amount its labeled at where it wont work anymore because its too much power. imo get a sub like kenwood or rockford and an amp like mtx, hifonics, or soundstorm since you really dont know anything. its not good to spend a **** ton of money and not know what your doing possibly making a big bonfire if you get a short or something somewhere
fail? you dont sound very knowlegeable yourself there buddy

 
@jpexpc

Let me rephrase it, ma'am. Do you think a v12 1507 amp having a 90wrms x 4channel / 360wrms/1440 peak spec can power two Targa x100i 10" 120wrms 240peak subs or two Targa 12" 150wrms 240peak subs.

 
I don' t know why that wouldn't work. And just //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif, that is my hot ass girlfriend in my avatar. She brings me to my knees with teh hotness. I got nudes if you would like. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

Similar threads

I think you're gonna have to get good with fiberglass or something, or find someone with a 3d laser scanner that can 3d print or mold you some...
7
1K
Is this a blue or blue/white wire from the Kenwood? The ACC wire is red and although that should turn on the amp, it is not the prefered wiring...
1
753
The sound deadening is going to be more about preventing vibration from metal surfaces and adding unwanted noise. Does it have the JBL system...
1
734
It's called the K.I.S.S. preciniple ("Keep it simple, stupid!")... Takes the guesswork out of parallel/series wiring.
2
953
As for which signal to use, I tried all combinations and getting signal from the dash and front & rear doors is the only way the system sounded...
15
2K

About this thread

technowar

10+ year member
Junior Member
Thread starter
technowar
Joined
Location
Cebu
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
31
Views
1,898
Last reply date
Last reply from
technowar
1000007975.jpg

Mr FaceCaser

    May 16, 2024
  • 0
  • 0
1000007974.jpg

Mr FaceCaser

    May 16, 2024
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top