Headunit is over heating ..Please Help..

He doesn't need a line level converter the amp is set up like the JL slash amps that can accept speaker level through the RCAs, the high level signal also triggers the amp turn on. His problem is probably the length of the RCAs vs. their gauge, they are probably 20-22 gauge. There's probably only 2-3 amps at less than 8V running through those cables but that is just a bit too much to run the length of an SUV. If he used some 14-16 gauge speaker wire to tap into the signal behind the head unit then connected the RCAs to the 14-16ga at the amp there wouldn't be any problem with the current. Of course this is assuming he has everything connected correctly behind the head unit.
If your familiar with it I'll bow out.

---------- Post added at 01:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:32 PM ----------

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Oh it's one of those, OP go get a new HU with some pre-outs it makes life a whole lot easier!
This definitely solves the problem.

 
thanks west...yes..my amp is Pioneer GM-D7500M
Do you have the part in bold?

What's in the box?

Mono amplifier with 40-amp ATO fuse inserted

9.5" Speaker-level input harness (with stereo RCA plugs on one end and bare wire on the other end)

4 Self-tapping screws (length=3/4")

Owner's Manual (En/Sp/Fr)

Warranty sheet (En/Fr)

 
hey west... according to your suggestion, i should use 8 awg speaker wire to tape with my rear speaker output wire and run them into convertor, and then use rca between amp and convertor, right? thanks expert //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
I'm confused, why are you using tape at all? It is not uncommon for HU's to get hot, especially after ''extended play''. Ie: 1 or 2 hours.Another factor is we are still in the middle of summer, even if you pull your HU out when it's this hot it's likely your HU will still be hot.

Mine was. HU's have heat sink cases for a reason. Anyways, be sure of one thing after you are done cramming everything back in no

matter what you do, make sure none of the wires are too close or against the head unit, the plastic could literally melt off your RCA'S...


lmao

"Confused" but still attempting to offer advice on something u clearly haven't a clue about...

Weak, as always!

 
Yes, in the box are following included,

Mono amplifier with 40-amp ATO fuse inserted

9.5" Speaker-level input harness (with stereo RCA plugs on one end and bare wire on the other end)

4 Self-tapping screws (length=3/4")

Owner's Manual (En/Sp/Fr)

Warranty sheet (En/Fr)

 
hey west... according to your suggestion, i should use 8 awg speaker wire to tape with my rear speaker output wire and run them into convertor, and then use rca between amp and convertor, right? thanks expert //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
Something like that should work. If you use the converter that came with the amp that should be the way 2 go. Go and get some proper wire connectors so it doesn't come undone. I kind of misunderstood the problem initially. I am not used to amps like that, it concerned me a lot I don't want people to have there stuff break...

Good luck man!

 
hey west... according to your suggestion, i should use 8 awg speaker wire to tape with my rear speaker output wire and run them into convertor, and then use rca between amp and convertor, right? thanks expert //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
8awg is beyond overkill for this, 14-16awg is all you need. Connect one side behind the head unit then connect the "9.5" Speaker-level input harness" to the other end. Plug the RCA end into the amp and you should be all set.

 
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