hdc312 on a gp3000d-pro

[LuvnThatBass 10+ year member]

the first picture is of my settings: and since you cannot see which ones are which

in order left to right: GAIN:approx 66% PHASE: 0 degrees BASS EQ: 0db SSF: 22-24hz LOWPASS: 80-100

then of my engine with big 3 done with kol 1/0 fused at 300a. the low right corner next to the radiator and horn is the ground i chose off the battery (i shaved down to all silver metal.) and for only having all of this stuff hooked up in my truck for about 2 weeks (the cable anyway) the battery has discharged alot of bluish white crap.

then pic of alternator with neg on front pos. on back

then showing the positive connection of alt.

then the setup where the speaker and box is.

 

[LuvnThatBass 10+ year member]

pic of my ground from amplifier to chassis

and an unclear picture of my Power Acoustik PTID-4005 head unit.

 

[imready77 10+ year member]

WHERE IS A gp3000d-pro AVAILABLE?!!

Here

 

[LuvnThatBass 10+ year member]

videos at 30-/42 volume. 0 voltage drop (truck gauge) and it was day time so i didnt have headlights, but still. there should have been some at the volume...and forgot there was a mic at the end of one of the vids. but i almost dropped something that would have broken if hit the ground... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

just go to youtube.com and type in HDC312. my sn is tyanders.

 

[LuvnThatBass 10+ year member]

ya that is a major contributing factor. all your grounds need to be on bare metal. you want it scrapped until its shinny as hell. make sure it's fairly flat too, if there's a bunch of deep grooves from scratching it down too much then there'll be poor surface contact. get the paint in that area its touching clean, i recommend buying a cheap wire brush at home depot.


2 most important things right now besides fixing your crappy grounds are a battery for that amp, and a new HU. You should get something rated at at least 4v for the preamp voltage. i recommend alpine, eclipse, or pioneer.

as far as mixing batteries....there's a catch. you're SUPPOSED to have only the same kind (AGM, deep cycle, etc) and have them the same age. When they are differant kind of batteries, one of the batteries which isnt as charged as well will pull charge off the more charged battery. For a temporary setup, this isnt an issue, its when you have them like this for months itll start to harm the batteries over. for the time being get an hc2400 for the trunk, and after you get a new HU, get the front battery replaced with an hc600 or 800. if you reallllly cant afford a smaller battery for up gront, you can get either a battery isolator, or a solenoid. a battery isolator will direct the charge to one battery at a time, and a solenoid will disconnect the connection between the 2 amps when the car is off. i like solenoids more personally.....these things will range from about 30-50 bucks i think for a 300amp one. you can do one of these, but IMO you're better off with a new battery up front later on

when you scrap these grounds, the amp will be probly be able to pull more even though your preamp voltage is shitty. you NEEEED to get that 2400 for the trunk or else you run the risk of blowing your alty or amp trying to run that amp hard on an inadequate electrical.

i have an isolator from a previous install. but i hear they take away from your system alittle. would it be fine to first get an hc2400 under the hood and then later (weeks if not a month) get an hc2400 in the back?? because i also plan on getting a 200 amp alt. good decision? also, i redid all grounds and there is still no voltage dropping. amp gain is set at about 70% now, and i obviously know something is not getting enough power, something is wrong. h/u huh?? does it really make that big of a difference though? isnt that the reason there is an adjustable gain on the amp to begin with??

 

[LuvnThatBass 10+ year member]

does it hurt having my white face guages connected to the BATT + and GRND on my head unit?

 

[LuvnThatBass 10+ year member]

I recently had the equipment below installed by the only shop within 30 miles..my front l/r inputs were crossed, my rear left speaker outs were crossed, they grounded both amps to the back seat bracket itself!...not even scratching the paint. I took my ride back...I had to stand and point over his shoulder ( I wanted to kick his ***).
After rewiring the 4 ch amp and a decent grounding effort to both amps, ( I desperately need to do the big3 and add a battery) the hideous engine noise ceased to a minimum..LOL...I think the residual faint whine at 0 volume is due to the dipshit running 3 sets of cheap *** signal cables down the same side as the 4 guage power from the battery. On a suburban, thats what? 10 or 12 feet of bullshit.

Yea I guess the moral of this story is don't get lazy...this stuff aint that hard to figure out.

...or maybe just don't take your ride to a shop who sells house carpet in the same room as speaker boxes.

I could have bought another amp and some nice separates for what I paid those crackheads. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/verymad.gif.3f39c5c2fd57527b671fad3efdfac756.gif

i have my rca's, remote turn on, and 1/o power cable all running directly next to each other. is that bad?

 

[savagebee 10+ year member]

i have my rca's, remote turn on, and 1/o power cable all running directly next to each other. is that bad?

I do as well, some think itll cause distortion, or a ground loop noise, but I suffer from neither, so, if you dont notice a problem, dont worry about it

 

[LuvnThatBass 10+ year member]

everything look good? people still stuck on the fact i need a new deck? would the low pre-out really make that much of a dfference in my voltage dropping.

 

[BassAddictJ 5,000+ posts]

i have an isolator from a previous install. but i hear they take away from your system alittle. would it be fine to first get an hc2400 under the hood and then later (weeks if not a month) get an hc2400 in the back?? because i also plan on getting a 200 amp alt. good decision? also, i redid all grounds and there is still no voltage dropping. amp gain is set at about 70% now, and i obviously know something is not getting enough power, something is wrong. h/u huh?? does it really make that big of a difference though? isnt that the reason there is an adjustable gain on the amp to begin with??

you'll be fine getting a 2400 now, and then adding another one later. i'd get the 2400, the alty, then the 2nd bat.

it's possible that your preamp voltage is so shitty that even cranking the gain full tilt doesnt drive it to the fullest. a new deck should probly fix this ordeal.

I do as well, some think itll cause distortion, or a ground loop noise, but I suffer from neither, so, if you dont notice a problem, dont worry about it

sometime this'll cause a ground loop or distortion.....and yes is you dont get any ground loops or distortion then dont worry bout it.

everything look good? people still stuck on the fact i need a new deck? would the low pre-out really make that much of a dfference in my voltage dropping.

itll make a differance. youll even notice it in your mids/highs alot too. id say spend at least 15-200 on a decent deck. there's a cd5000 for sale for 225 right now. those are nice for the money. it's a well worthy investment man.

 

[LuvnThatBass 10+ year member]

just sold my deck and am getting the pioneer deh-p6000ub. 4v pre-outs. and then am going to buy a hc2400 for under the hood (its nice to have these be able to fit in the stock battery location). then i was looking at a 200 amp amputator iraggi alty...thanks for the help man. it will be a few weeks before i get all this. but i will let you know how things go.

 

[BassAddictJ 5,000+ posts]

keep us posted

 

[LuvnThatBass 10+ year member]

so i just installed my deck. but nothing from the door speakers (output on head unit is ok). so i think i am going to have to take it to that near by audio shop and pay them to do an amp bypass (becuz of the external factory infinity amp..) so im pretty much pissed about that. but i have a few questions concerning something else. i just got a multimeter from millionbuy.com and when i hook it up to my BATT + and GRN - on my amp it reads 13.8v. but when i take out my neg speaker terminal and use the multimeter to set the gain i cant get a consistant number, it keeps fluctuating from like 00.3-1.00v so i dont really know what this means. i was playing a 40hz song and turned my head unit up to about 3/4 full. and my bass was at 0 subwoofer level was at 6 (highest) remote gain was at full, and gain on amp was a little more than 1/2 up. i had the DMM set to test the range of 200v. that gave me the 00.0 reading when not connected. whats the deal here?? ugh! too many controls on this pioneer....

 

[LuvnThatBass 10+ year member]

also have a question about the settings on the H/U. there is the adjustable bass on the EQ, but also a BASS control all by its self that is separate. is this going to more likely cause distortion from my speaker?? is it the same kind of BASS as on an amplifier (bass boost)? and why is my subwoofer level have a margin of +6 to -24. if i go above 0, is it adding more gain to my amplifier than is currently going?

 

[BassAddictJ 5,000+ posts]

so i just installed my deck. but nothing from the door speakers (output on head unit is ok). so i think i am going to have to take it to that near by audio shop and pay them to do an amp bypass (becuz of the external factory infinity amp..) so im pretty much pissed about that. but i have a few questions concerning something else. i just got a multimeter from millionbuy.com and when i hook it up to my BATT + and GRN - on my amp it reads 13.8v. but when i take out my neg speaker terminal and use the multimeter to set the gain i cant get a consistant number, it keeps fluctuating from like 00.3-1.00v so i dont really know what this means. i was playing a 40hz song and turned my head unit up to about 3/4 full. and my bass was at 0 subwoofer level was at 6 (highest) remote gain was at full, and gain on amp was a little more than 1/2 up. i had the DMM set to test the range of 200v. that gave me the 00.0 reading when not connected. whats the deal here?? ugh! too many controls on this pioneer....

when measuring the speaker outputs, you want the DMM on AC voltage, you probly have it still on DC voltage. i'd imagine the gain will want to be somewhere between 1/2 and 3/4....give or take.

also have a question about the settings on the H/U. there is the adjustable bass on the EQ, but also a BASS control all by its self that is separate. is this going to more likely cause distortion from my speaker?? is it the same kind of BASS as on an amplifier (bass boost)? and why is my subwoofer level have a margin of +6 to -24. if i go above 0, is it adding more gain to my amplifier than is currently going?

although there are 2 bass controls, the seperate bass control (sub woofer out) only controls one low particular frequency, and only for those rca's outs. the bass on the eq thats with the mids and treble will also control the amount of bass going to your door speakers. adjust the eq bass one first (probly like -3 to 0 depening on how it sounds on heavy bass songs)....and then do the woofer out +4 to +6 depending on the song. cranking up too high on the eq bass one will result in distortion more so than having the subwoofer out cranked too high....IMO