Ground resistance

[DumpinTreos 10+ year member]

Definetely some good reading info here.

Ok I have the big 3 done in 1/0 w/ stock ground points (******/headlight frame)

I have a kinetik 2400 in the back with a pos/neg coming from front fused at both ends at pos.

The amps is REALLY close to the battery so I just hook the pos/neg straight to the batt.

Now to get a good reading I would have to use some 12 gauge wire from the neg. of the amplifier in the back all the way to the multimeter thats connected to the neg of the front battery. Blast a tone and move my underhood grounds till i see where the voltage drop is the least? Does this sound right?

 

[PaulD 10+ year member]

the problem with using a multimeter is it only uses a few milliamps of current, ANY piece of metal on the frame will show a good resistance using this method. See my post above .......

 

[smoka 10+ year member]

Definetely some good reading info here.
Ok I have the big 3 done in 1/0 w/ stock ground points (******/headlight frame)

I have a kinetik 2400 in the back with a pos/neg coming from front fused at both ends at pos.

The amps is REALLY close to the battery so I just hook the pos/neg straight to the batt.

Now to get a good reading I would have to use some 12 gauge wire from the neg. of the amplifier in the back all the way to the multimeter thats connected to the neg of the front battery. Blast a tone and move my underhood grounds till i see where the voltage drop is the least? Does this sound right?

In your case if you want to test the ground, you would need to remove one of the batts. If you want to test the front grounds, then remove your front batt. If you want to test your back ground, then remove your back batt. With batts on both ends it will be harder to test. With 2 batts and an alt, it would be really hard to estimate the current travelling through your grounds at any given moment. So by removing one batt, you will have a longer power/ground loop to test with.

I've never really thought about testing the front grounds, usually its the back ground locations that can be tricky.

You said you have a 1/0 ground wire ran to the back? Is it also connected to the frame at both ends? If you said yes to both its really unlikely you need to test your frame ground points because even if they are bad then the current would run through the wire which should not cause much of a voltage drop unless the wire is corroded or connections are messed up.

 

[fuggles 10+ year member]

Yes. But you can measure +/- at the amp. No need to measure from the front to back.

For example, you can measure the voltage at the battery in front, alternator, and amp. This will give you the voltage drop to each. All while consuming max current.

I wonder where the kinetic battery leads are connected at the front? Specifically the gnd?

Kent

 

[DumpinTreos 10+ year member]

I forgot to mention that the battery in the back is not grounded in the trunk its just grounded to the front battery

 

[smoka 10+ year member]

I forgot to mention that the battery in the back is not grounded in the trunk its just grounded to the front battery

You should have ground on both ends, I can't see any reason not to.

 

[DammitJames 10+ year member]

I forgot to mention that the battery in the back is not grounded in the trunk its just grounded to the front battery

that might be your problem right there there should be no reason to run a ground cable from the front of the car unless u have a corvette as for adding wire to the end of a dmm to reach there is no reason all u have to do is just go from your amp ground to somewhere near where u grounded the wire i guess in your case would be your 2nd batts neg terminal and take that wire from your main bat too ur 2nd batt off and ground the 2nd batt to chassis no reason for that where do you think the ground of the main battery goes?