Got Honda, what to do?

****** might just us 80W90 or similar, not sure though.

After you run some fuel system cleaner through it, change your plugs... They probably need it anyways.

And as far as fuel system cleaner, i would recomend Sea Foam, you pour part of it through the brake booster or some other main vaccum line while its running (clears some carbon out of the engine, cleans the valves and such... Then ya pour the rest in the gas tank to clean the fuel system, it smokes like a mother while your pouring it in the intake though.

 
Update: We were running it for twenty minutes to get it warmed up to change the oil, and the battery went dead. The alternator is bad on it, or so it seems to be, so we need a new one. Does anyone know a good way to go about finding a good 140 amp for that car so we can push a system (this seems to be the priority for it's owner at this point.)? or is there a rebuild kit with different guts that will work?

 
Honda alternators are for the most part, throw-away units; gonna have to go aftermarket for a stronger one. http://www.truckperformance.com has "Power master" 110 amp alternators for sale; not cheap though, $400-500 dollars. "Stinger" has probably the most powerful alternators I've found (135-270 amps); but, you have to go to an "Authorized retailer" to fill out an order form. Go to http://www.stingerelectronics.com/web/prods/alternators.asp for more information.

As for the ****** drain plug, it should be right on the underside of the case, possibly on the side of it (hex key plug). The fill plug will be higher up on the side of the case. You might want to consult with a service manual or ask a shop for where the plugs are and exactly what oil to use. As far as I know, all hondas use engine oil for a manual gear box lube; as in 5W-30. I know that might sound too light, but most all manual transmissions in cars and light trucks use a light weight oil. The '97 Honda Del Sol I owned also used 5W-30 for ***** oil; I found it a little hard to believe at first, but it's true. Get a manual or ask a shop how much, and what type of oil it uses before tearing into it. I remember how much oil it holds for sure--3 1/2 quarts, I THINK. Don't want to hassle with it? Most good independent shops charge about $35 for a gear box oil change.

While your at the maintenance thing, be sure to check the radiator coolant. If it looks weak, rusty, or has crud floating in it, you need to flush the coolant system and put fresh anti-freeze mix in it. And check the belts and hoses; especially the timing (cam) belt. If the car has not had it done in the last 60-80 thousand miles, it needs to go; if it snaps, it WILL damage the cylinder head.

Keep at it, you'll make a respectable car out of that thing yet. Later. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smash.gif.499e08a4a35ffaf54f4c8194fb8fe8ed.gif

 
Update:

I have removed the rear seat (after I took out that tricky *** little 10mm nut that held it in), and found mostly where the bad smell was, sort of a murky brown puddle of water emitting a particularly horrible odor. After that was removed, the rear seat was drenched in rubbing alcahol and thrown in the yard to dry. The car smell is much improved.

 
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