Good loud to the EAR sub

[Astyl 10+ year member]

Whats a good sub thats loud to the EAR, and is around the Type R / L7 Price Range? Meaning $250 or less... I dont care if it does a 110DB on the mic if its loud as shit to your ear.. i could care less about mic scores i just want something loud as hell to your ear?

Also, i know type R subs arent loud to the ear and theyre mic subs.. is the L7 loud to the ear?

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[supraman1379 10+ year member]

I depends on the box and vehicle.

 

[M Dot Holla 10+ year member]

Any sub that you are talking about is loud but you have to have good ears though:crazy:

sorry for the indirect answer

Mike

 

[linvillegorge 10+ year member]

I've heard some Type R setups that were pretty loud to the ear. L7s are definitely "ear loud."

 

[Astyl 10+ year member]

so a 15" 06 L7 would definately be "ear loud" compared to other things in its 250 bone price range

 

[bigbassman Premium Member]

ear loud requires a low tuning... as low frequencies are louder in the vehicle at ear level..

look for a driver that models well with a 25-35hz tuning...

Loyd L.

 

[linvillegorge 10+ year member]

I think you'd be happy with a 15L7. It'll get loud!

 

[Astyl 10+ year member]

06 15" L7 in a 4.5 cube box @ 32 hz //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[ultimate157 5,000+ posts]

Screw ear loud, I love to feel the air in my lungs vibrate so much it makes it harder to breath //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/naughty.gif.94359f346c0f1259df8038d60b41863e.gif

 

[Remotia 10+ year member]

Whats a good sub thats loud to the EAR, and is around the Type R / L7 Price Range? Meaning $250 or less... I dont care if it does a 110DB on the mic if its loud as shit to your ear.. i could care less about mic scores i just want something loud as hell to your ear?
Also, i know type R subs arent loud to the ear and theyre mic subs.. is the L7 loud to the ear?

I hate to state the obvious but 111 is louder than 110 any way you measure it.

I think you want you is “bass”, rather than “noise”, a very problematic issue regarding car audio as 99% of what people want and refer to is "loud"

If I could ban that word I certainly would, for “loud” is almost a cliché at this point.

Do you want noise or do you want bass? That’s the real question. And much of this does have to do with the driver, there is no doubt, and I can certainly attest to the fact that many people have the wrong impressions about what drivers are truly better than others, but what they don't understand, which admittedly is not their fault, is the install is a huge variable in the equation. And it has much more to do with linearizing the frequency response with correct low pass and or high pass filters or equalization. It also has to do with damping and eliminating your car's resonance. You can’t do it correctly unless you can truly measure your install and unfortunately 99% of us can’t do that. So what you are left with are some very hard choices to make and I can’t tell you for certain which driver will end up being a better install and ultimately sounding better in your specific application, but I can certainly tell you which driver is better overall, and unless you start with a good driver, all that work you did in the install will be wasted. There are surly drivers to avoid for either price/performance reasons or the fact they are just flat out make too much THD.

The worst thing you can do, is throw a drier in a box and hope for the best. It will not sound as ideal as it could, that I can promise.

Best of luck.

 

[linvillegorge 10+ year member]

^^^^

Yep. Regardless of the driver, the install and setup is absolutely crucial. Also, like he said, noise can be loud, but you don't want to hear that, you want bass. A good quality sub will retain better sound quality at higher volumes than a lower quality sub. Install and setup is also crucial to this.

Basically, make sure that you have invested an adequate amount of $$$ and time into prepping your vehicle with sound deadening. Make sure you have a quality headunit that will send a clean signal. Make sure your electrical system is ready to provide the necessary constant voltage. Then, you can focus on a sub and amp. If you take care of all that, you'll maximize what you get out of your sub.

People knock MA Audio subs, but I've had two pairs of them and have sent many of people away with heads hanging after I put them and their much more expensive subs to shame. This was due to the amount of time and effort I put into the install and setup - not because of the subs themselves.

 

[thadman 10+ year member]

push your sub super hard until it reaches its thermal limits and starts making some nasty harmonics! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/naughty.gif.94359f346c0f1259df8038d60b41863e.gif

distortion always sounds louder to the ear because the ear is more sensitive to higher frequencies

 

[xtremebassjunky 10+ year member]

if you get a box thats tuned low you will be "heard" from quite a ways off...

the box you will want for that would be tuned to around 30hz...

as far as subs go I prefer DD, audioque, kicker, and occasionally treo...

YUP thadman your right^^ but it will sound like a floppy fart and last only long enough to lock up..... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[Astyl 10+ year member]

if you get a box thats tuned low you will be "heard" from quite a ways off...the box you will want for that would be tuned to around 30hz...

35 hz?

 

[mannyb18b]

Holy L7 boners