Getting back into the game.

[dysfunctional canuck]

hello, I just joined and need some help picking out subwoofers for a stock 2012 Honda Civic sedan. I want to keep the stock wiring/ head unit but I want something SPL oriented. About a 1kish budget.

I've had Rockford p1, p2s, and some kickers
Heard conflicting things about Skar
And the shear about sundown has to offer confuses me.

So any and all help is appreciated
Ive got about 12.5 cubic ft in the trunk, or W-39H-16 D-29 to work with. Idk what sub(s) would preform the best.

Click to read more...

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Do you have the skills and tools(drill,caulk gun,wire wire cutters or box knife?) to follow a cut sheet and put together your own tuned enclosure together?

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Im thinking about a single 12 ported and tuned on approx 1k-1500 rms tuned to approx 30-34 htz

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

That should serve very well with stock speaker front stage? I usually recommend 600-1k sub stage for stock front stage

 

[dysfunctional canuck]

Do you have the skills and tools(drill,caulk gun,wire wire cutters or box knife?) to follow a cut sheet and put together your own tuned enclosure together?

I’m a welder/fitter by trade so I have the skills and the ocd to make it perfect I’ve just been out of the game for about 10 years, so idk what brands/sizes and rms I should look into to get the most spl out of the little civic.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I’m a welder/fitter by trade so I have the skills and the ocd to make it perfect I’ve just been out of the game for about 10 years, so idk what brands/sizes and rms I should look into to get the most spl out of the little civic.

You deff know how to read a cut sheet and use a drill and a tape measure and caulk to seal off all the necessary joints needed. Im a tradesman myself. A single 12 tuned properly will deff serve well for that car.

 

[HardofWhoring]

The sad part about your build is, what you need to do is figure out what electrical is going to be in your budget. I don't think you will get to where you need a second battery on that budget, but if you're adding a real sub, you will need to upgrade your alternator.

You need to figure out what upgrading your electrical is going to cost. About $40-$80 for the BIG 3, and you need an alternator.
Lets say you get a 1,000w amp for your sub.
1,000w / 80%( or .8) for amp efficiency is 1250 w draw (by your amp to push out 1,000w).
1250w / 14.4v = 86.8 amp draw for that amplifier.

Your stock alt is probably around 100amps, and that is enough to do everything it may need to: electric fans, efi, AC, headlights, turns, horn, and some other stuff. YOU NEED TO SEE WHAT YOUR UPGRADED ALTERNATOR OPTIONS ARE, AND WHAT IS IN YOUR BUDGET. This could be anywhere from $150- $600. This might eat up a large chunk of your budget, and I always suggest planning out the entire thing, before you buy anything, unless you get a really smoking deal on something, so you can adjust if you need to.

For alternator shopping you need to know two things:
Output at or near idle, &
RPM needed for full output.
I'll bet in a honda you rev higher than a v8, and so this might open up your options, but you need to know what it will recharge while you're sitting at a light, and what speed/rpm do you cruise at, and is that above your full output.

If you can find an alt that is 40 amps higher for next to nothing, then you have about 500w you add, and when it's playing full volume, with a constant draw, (which subs don't do), then you couldn't possibly have a problem. You can still go well over this number. If you find one that is 150 amps higher than stock, for just a little more, then you have room to play with.

I always recommend looking here for deals:

Sale

WoofersEtc.com - The Online Car Audio Superstore, the Largest Selection at the Lowest Prices!

www.woofersetc.com

(they owe me some commission by now).

I would bet that with a real sub, your front speakers and the amp will be 1/3-1/2 your budget. There are also several things along the way you could upgrade later. Sometimes you can find nice deals on Clist, or FBook marketplace for enclosures, and even package deals on a system.

 

[AnthonyO 10+ year member]

1,000 Watt (RMS) Class D Monoblock Car Audio Amplifier | MT-1000.1

Shop 1000W Class D Monoblock amplifiers for your car today! Features include adjustable low-pass filters, bass boost control, and a remote control.

stingeroffroad.com

They are out of stock right now but might be able to find them elsewhere.

Snatch these up

Pair of Image Dynamics OEM 10s

Price includes shipping to CONUS Unlabeled version subwoofers that ID built for a couple of other brands (Elemental Designs and Arc Audio, IIRC) Function: 10/10 Cosmetic: 8/10 (a bit dusty, some installation marks on the frame. Qts: .33 Qes: .36 Qms: 3.7 Fs: 22.00Hz Re: 7.4 Vas: 70L Mms...

www.diymobileaudio.com

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Amazon product ASIN B074KRXHRZ
Amazon product ASIN B08JPHRFKJ

12" single High Output XL Glue it & Screw It Sub Enclosure

GP Car Audio is a manufacturer of many USA Made ðºð¸ car audio products. We are also a distributor for several top Audio brands including Sundown Audio, XS Power, and Deaf Bonce.

gpcaraudio.com

AMPKIT-4GA-ELITE // 4 Gauge 2000 Watt Amplifier Wiring Kit (OFC)

The CT Sounds 4 gauge OFC complete amplifier wiring kit is perfect for systems rated up to 2000 watts and includes everything from a waterproof fuse holder to a bundle of zip ties for cable management to get your stereo going faster.

www.ctsounds.com

Use an80-100 Reg Sized ANL FUSE not the 150 at the battery

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-69602-2-Pack-of-100-Amp-Nickel-Plated-ANL-Fuse-Belva-BANL100.html

CT-LC2 // 2-Channel Premium Line-Out Converter with BassLift

The CT-LC2 is a 2-channel line-out converter with BassLift technology that allows you to use your stock radio as the signal source for your aftermarket amplifier(s). The premium LOC converts the high-level signal used to play factory speakers into a low-level RCA input to send to the amplifier(s).

www.ctsounds.com

At the amplifier with a 60 amp Mini anl fuse

Stinger SSFM48 MIDI Inline Fuse Holder - 4 or 8 Gauge

Stinger SSFM48 • MIDI Inline Fuse Holder - 4 or 8 Gauge • MAXI Inline Housing • Gold Plated • 4 or 8 Gauge

www.sonicelectronix.com

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-68394-T-Spec-V8-MANL60.html

NVX XBG3PK Big 3 Kit with True 0 Gauge 100% OFC

NVX XBG3PK Big 3 Kit with True 0 Gauge 100% Oxygen-Free Copper • 1/0 AWG Big 3 Upgrade Kit with 100% OFC Wire for Audio Sytems up to 350 Amps • Upgrade Your Factory Power and Ground Wire • Perfect for Dealing with Dimming Lights • Improve the Efficiency of Your Vehicle's Electrical System...

www.sonicelectronix.com

You may need another battery/AGM in the trunk space possibly. This Amp will run @12v and with Big3 it may be fine, though in most Hondas, Ive done the Big3 in 0ga and ran the power wiring (0ga,4ga, OFC off batt. under hood,) back to a secondary battery(AGM750CA,min) and grounded the secondary to rearend through a Plug hole and used a grommet and ground amp off that and to Battery.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Im sure others will chime in and make some recommendations.

 

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

I could do 4 8s in that thing and make it hammer 150s daily ....

 

[metalheadjoe 10+ year member]

The sad part about your build is, what you need to do is figure out what electrical is going to be in your budget. I don't think you will get to where you need a second battery on that budget, but if you're adding a real sub, you will need to upgrade your alternator.

You need to figure out what upgrading your electrical is going to cost. About $40-$80 for the BIG 3, and you need an alternator.
Lets say you get a 1,000w amp for your sub.
1,000w / 80%( or .8) for amp efficiency is 1250 w draw (by your amp to push out 1,000w).
1250w / 14.4v = 86.8 amp draw for that amplifier.

Your stock alt is probably around 100amps, and that is enough to do everything it may need to: electric fans, efi, AC, headlights, turns, horn, and some other stuff. YOU NEED TO SEE WHAT YOUR UPGRADED ALTERNATOR OPTIONS ARE, AND WHAT IS IN YOUR BUDGET. This could be anywhere from $150- $600. This might eat up a large chunk of your budget, and I always suggest planning out the entire thing, before you buy anything, unless you get a really smoking deal on something, so you can adjust if you need to.

For alternator shopping you need to know two things:
Output at or near idle, &
RPM needed for full output.
I'll bet in a honda you rev higher than a v8, and so this might open up your options, but you need to know what it will recharge while you're sitting at a light, and what speed/rpm do you cruise at, and is that above your full output.

If you can find an alt that is 40 amps higher for next to nothing, then you have about 500w you add, and when it's playing full volume, with a constant draw, (which subs don't do), then you couldn't possibly have a problem. You can still go well over this number. If you find one that is 150 amps higher than stock, for just a little more, then you have room to play with.

I always recommend looking here for deals:

Sale

WoofersEtc.com - The Online Car Audio Superstore, the Largest Selection at the Lowest Prices!

www.woofersetc.com

(they owe me some commission by now).

I would bet that with a real sub, your front speakers and the amp will be 1/3-1/2 your budget. There are also several things along the way you could upgrade later. Sometimes you can find nice deals on Clist, or FBook marketplace for enclosures, and even package deals on a system.

A high output alternator is not as important as battery capacity.

 

[HardofWhoring]

A high output alternator is not as important as battery capacity.

Only if you plan on listening to it with the engine off. A battery stores, and an alt recharges.

& Irrelevant in this thread to have a BS discussion about it, which you have been known to do. Nothing about a $1k budget for a full system is going to require a second battery.

 

[metalheadjoe 10+ year member]

Only if you plan on listening to it with the engine off. A battery stores, and an alt recharges.

& Irrelevant in this thread to have a BS discussion about it, which you have been known to do. Nothing about a $1k budget for a full system is going to require a second battery.

Batteries PREVENT low voltage.
Alternators CORRECT low voltage.
Obviously both are important, but a lot more people complain about dimming lights and voltage drop (not enough battery) than dead batteries (not enough alternator).

I never intentionally derail threads, but it tends to happen when I call out ******** and people get defensive rather than admitting they were wrong, "which you have been known to do". I bet op would rather have his thread derailed than waste $600 on an alternator because someone wrote a really long post about it.

 

[HardofWhoring]

Batteries PREVENT low voltage.
Alternators CORRECT low voltage.
Obviously both are important, but a lot more people complain about dimming lights and voltage drop (not enough battery) than dead batteries (not enough alternator).

I never intentionally derail threads, but it tends to happen when I call out ******** and people get defensive rather than admitting they were wrong, "which you have been known to do". I bet op would rather have his thread derailed than waste $600 on an alternator because someone wrote a really long post about it.

Another disingenuous BS response from you, just making an effort to be a jackass. I didn't tell them to spend $600 on an alt. I told them to see what their options were. I told them to factor in an an alt, where there options could be anywhere from $150-$600, and you justify your own BS, by trying to jump to the end, and then add in that I'm telling them to spend $600 on one. If you had a good point to make, then stick with the truth, you didn't. Your hater-***** response doesn't even factor in the OP's $1k budget that I already reminded you of. You're just being a POS, because you have time to be one. There is something mentally wrong with you.