skadude016
5,000+ posts
CarAudio.com Veteran
wow you really are lame... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif
why? explain?//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/veryhappy.gif.fec4fed33b4a1279cf10bdd45a039dae.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/naughty.gif.94359f346c0f1259df8038d60b41863e.gif
big_mofo
10+ year member
Im Da *** Man!!!
go back to your moms bed??? dude if your gonna net threat make worth your while. so why dont you just go and drink a case and drown away the fact that you are worthless and unloved.
big_mofo
10+ year member
Im Da *** Man!!!
beat me to it
snoopdan
5,000+ posts
Banned
Great to see you're enjoying those subs, they were one of the more fun one's ive had the pleasure of testing.
If the LED isnt lighting up (and im sure you've tried to independantly power it somehow, or at least made sure the power wires werent in reverse) then the next thing id do is grab a multimeter with a diode check (most multimeters have this) and do a value check on the sub with the functioning LED, and find out what the value reads (and it will only read in one direction of the current, so make sure you have your leads right, if not just reverse and see if you get a value). Then as soon as you get a readable value from the good one, see if you can reproduce it on the sub that wont light. If you get an open value and or nothing read, the diode is probably shot .... usually this happens due to overvoltage....not suggesting how this happened or why, just that this is the probable reason.
and the coolest thing is, if you ever blow them, you can recone it yourself in like 5 min with a recone kit from Massive....requires no glue or special tools.
If the LED isnt lighting up (and im sure you've tried to independantly power it somehow, or at least made sure the power wires werent in reverse) then the next thing id do is grab a multimeter with a diode check (most multimeters have this) and do a value check on the sub with the functioning LED, and find out what the value reads (and it will only read in one direction of the current, so make sure you have your leads right, if not just reverse and see if you get a value). Then as soon as you get a readable value from the good one, see if you can reproduce it on the sub that wont light. If you get an open value and or nothing read, the diode is probably shot .... usually this happens due to overvoltage....not suggesting how this happened or why, just that this is the probable reason.
and the coolest thing is, if you ever blow them, you can recone it yourself in like 5 min with a recone kit from Massive....requires no glue or special tools.
- Thread Starter
- #39
and the directed definitly runs at 1 ohm. The final load on these measures at 1.2 and the final on the Q was at .7 all before rise and as i said no protect light. Ill try and get a vid today. Last whats the best way to hook up the lights. A picture would be best.
BIGsherm7272
Banned
dude, sorry your thread was ruined by some queer for no apparent reason. idk why people just cant say anything if it is not of help. thats what these forums are for.
Awesome stuff man, sorry the thread got crapped on,lol. Whats the price on these? Might wanna try some 10's later on.
Cool thanks //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif
ultimate157
5,000+ posts
Engineering Student
So what you're saying is a company absolutely CANNOT take the time to develop a sub that performs, and add an extra week to make the logo light up?
You, sir, are quite naive.
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