Ext. Cab Silvy box info dump

still waiting to finalize everything, hit up stang a couple days ago about an octo and to get the box specs he hooked me up with (my dumbass lost them lol) but i havent heard anything back..
my buddy who has a shop is dragging ass and ive tried hitting them up multiple times including voicemails, and apparently they dont want my money now so im gonna hit up another guy in my city and see if he can build me a box. quoted me 200 so we'll see what happens when i meet up with him next week
I'll holler after work in a text. Still want the octo? Lmk

 
I'll holler after work in a text. Still want the octo? Lmk
Yeah I think I'll have you build it, local guy said he's only built one so im doubting it'll be anywhere near the quality you can build. Just figured you got busy so I didn't push it

 
quick update, box is in and fricken huge lol

best part is its stupid loud, id say its easily 2x as loud as my last set up. however i definitely have big issues with flex now, i watched my taramps hd3k moving about a quarter to a half an inch and its mounted on the back wall with only partial power with a sheet of plywood. probably will get a 3/4 or 1 inch thick piece of MDF and slather it with a ton of glue and see if it helps at all.

i clamped about 45-50vac and 18-20 amps so my rise is a little less but im obviously letting the power stay low until the sub breaks in

 
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the port is like 3 inches from the side wall so im not sure if its gonna cause problems or not. i did hear some sort of weird resonance or vibration in the box or my truck so i need to check it out when it gets light out. honestly it sounded like the metal of my back wall twanging around but the sub does need to break in before i call any of the weird noises due to the box.

the amps are usually covered by my backseat but ive been adjusting gains and EQ's so its off for now. i dont like people seeing what i have, keeps them from wanting it

edit; here's what i mean about being close to the pass door. i let him make it pretty **** close because i know theres a 2-3 inch gap from the way to door is shaped

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Is that even seat-able any more lol I think not

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i joked about it with the guy who built it and said **** thats a tall ass box, ill have to make the fat chick sit back there. im pretty much calling that box not seat-able(?) anymore but it doesnt really bother me.

im hoping i can get a video of it eventually, just the looks alone dont do it justice

 
quick update, box is in and fricken huge lol
best part is its stupid loud, id say its easily 2x as loud as my last set up. however i definitely have big issues with flex now, i watched my taramps hd3k moving about a quarter to a half an inch and its mounted on the back wall with only partial power with a sheet of plywood. probably will get a 3/4 or 1 inch thick piece of MDF and slather it with a ton of glue and see if it helps at all.

i clamped about 45-50vac and 18-20 amps so my rise is a little less but im obviously letting the power stay low until the sub breaks in
Just did mine with two layers of 3/4 , three layers of deadner, left stock carpet on there and carpeted over the 1 1/2 inches of plywood and bolted it to back wall with rivit nuts and she is all solid now //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif Before I had to turn my 7k down abit cuz the flex from one 18 Team FI was flexin back wall so much I thought the back window was going to break lol but all good now ! thought I better do it now as I had CSCStang help me build my new box for two 18" Teams wit two 10.5 octo ports and that guy is the man ! He built my top double baffles and octos and did a flawless job ! Going up to 10k on power too so flex will be a problem.

 
Yeah that's closer than it should be imo. 6-8" from wall is best. Looks good though man.
yeah i hear from half port diameter to full port diameter from the wall. its probably more towards 4 inches but idk until i measure. you think ill run into any problems with it this close? i tried telling him to keep enough distance but i didnt realize the port flange would take up another inch or so

---------- Post added at 09:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:16 PM ----------

 

Just did mine with two layers of 3/4 , three layers of deadner, left stock carpet on there and carpeted over the 1 1/2 inches of plywood and bolted it to back wall with rivit nuts and she is all solid now //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif Before I had to turn my 7k down abit cuz the flex from one 18 Team FI was flexin back wall so much I thought the back window was going to break lol but all good now ! thought I better do it now as I had CSCStang help me build my new box for two 18" Teams wit two 10.5 octo ports and that guy is the man ! He built my top double baffles and octos and did a flawless job ! Going up to 10k on power too so flex will be a problem.
i need to do that for sure now, thats probably overkill on the mdf for what i need but thats a good method ill follow when i do mine

 
yeah i hear from half port diameter to full port diameter from the wall. its probably more towards 4 inches but idk until i measure. you think ill run into any problems with it this close? i tried telling him to keep enough distance but i didnt realize the port flange would take up another inch or so 

 

---------- Post added at 09:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:16 PM ----------

 

i need to do that for sure now, thats probably overkill on the mdf for what i need but thats a good method ill follow when i do mine
I dont think so and you have the room cuz the hump under the back window sticks out more than that 1 1/2 will and its so wide you need the thickness to create a shear panel effect. makes it really solid. And also it tacks about the same amount of time to do one sheet as two and you for sure wont have to take it all apart to add another later JMO lol

But it looks really good though. Post a vid man !

 
I dont think so and you have the room cuz the hump under the back window sticks out more than that 1 1/2 will and its so wide you need the thickness to create a shear panel effect. makes it really solid. And also it tacks about the same amount of time to do one sheet as two and you for sure wont have to take it all apart to add another later JMO lolBut it looks really good though. Post a vid man !
yeah thats a good point, only concern would be the depth of my amps and my backseat. they're pretty close already but a 1 inch piece of mdf might work just fine

i just measured the distance from port to wall and its 4-5inches depending on where i measure the wall from because it tapers. so its not too bad but we'll see if it causes problems

 
yeah thats a good point, only concern would be the depth of my amps and my backseat. they're pretty close already but a 1 inch piece of mdf might work just fine
True I forgot about your amps 1" will prob be ok. I had to move my amps they were on back wall and box in front of them but got tired of taking the box out every time I needed to get to the amps, you know how often you gotta do that lol !

 
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