redtop > yellowtop with car running/driving.
yellowtop>redtop with car off playing
but they both **** compared to some others.
****? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eyebrow.gif.fe2c18d8720fe8c7eaed347b21ea05a5.gif
Both are the most vibration resistant on the market and offer GREAT CA and RC. Not the best for the price but that combined with the name and the vibration resistance and the fact that they are entirely sealed makes for a GREAT battery.
They are no eagle pincher but they are **** good batteries.
Deep cycles can be drained lower and still be able to move current and can be drained to almost no voltage, be recharged, and you wont notice a big difference in how the battery charges or discharges where convential batteries wont hold a charge and their current capacity is greatly reduced if they are drained too low (11v or lower).
Deep cycles are NOT made for massive, 1-3 secon bursts of current...contentional batteries are better for that. Deep cycles will allow yo uto make 2, 3, 4 medium bursts of current with little or no drop in voltage and if you do drain them you wont harm it. They are also good for playing music for longer periods of time with out a good replenish charge.
If you plan on playing with the car off or if you have a system you plan on installing that will max out the alternator plus more and you plan on using it at thoes levels for extended periods of time then look into a deep cycle.
Otherwise a conventional battery with good cranking amps and a decen reserve capacity will do just fine.
One benefit of a deep cycle is if you have a drain you dont catch (such as a light) and you go to start your car it will start with a good battery like a yellow top, even after 10+ hours of 5-10a draw. Many conventional batteries would have a hard time cranking the car after that...some wouldnt be able to budge the engine.