Engine block to chassis ground question

wokeupquick
10+ year member

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Here's a picture of the engine. On both sides there are these:

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What I want to do is use this bolt

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to secure one end of my wiring for the engine block to chassis ground, and use one bolt on that other circular object... Yes? No? What are the circular things, anyways? Is it safe to undo one of the bolts?

 
The bolt you're talking about is on the exhaust, which means its probably not a very good link to the alternator find something on the block, that bolt might work but you can do better

the other bolts should be a good spot for grounding

btw post pictures of the alt and stuff so maybe ppl here can tell us how to do alt+ to batt+

 
I just went with a really nice bolt on the alt. casing. It was a tight squeeze with the wrench but a really good place for me to ground it to the bolt on the chassis. I can take a picture tomorrow when there's light out.

 
yup,thats how i did mine too.bolt that holds alt to engine.then to frame....+ on back of alt,just add your wire there and follow the stock wire to the + on batt.may have to add another or a different style of post on battery to accept wire.(that tip was for rashaddd)

 
yup,thats how i did mine too.bolt that holds alt to engine.then to frame....+ on back of alt,just add your wire there and follow the stock wire to the + on batt.may have to add another or a different style of post on battery to accept wire.(that tip was for rashaddd)
We both have 626's and the alt is in an almost zero access spot, under and to the side of the engine, buried under wires and shit. Thats my problem

 
Those are your STRUT bolts...... To answer your question: YES, you can use them... Just make sure you retighten the bolt VERY firm. ( And scrape away the paint that's underneath that both also - bare metal )
Do NOT tighten it 'very firm', it will snap, and then you're in a world of hurt. Hold the ratchet by the head (the top part //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif) and tighten it until it stresses your wrist a bit. Then give it another 1/2 - 3/4 turn. Then put your tools away. You'll need to jack the car a slight bit you make sure you keep alignment. Bring the jack up until it contacts the frame, and then jack it up until the moment the tire moves the slightest bit. This takes the pressure off the tire, so that the weight doesn't shift the suspension. Honestly, you'd be better off grounding on top of the existing nut, and adding another nut on top of it, so that you don't risk your suspension geometry.

And FYI, that's a horrible ground.

 
It's not gonna snap...... I've done this TOO many times.

Very Firm doesn't equal excessive...
Who are you to say whats excessive? How do you know its not gonna snap? No one cares how many times you have "done this" you obviously haven't done anything enough to have learned anything.

The bolt you're talking about is on the exhaust, which means its probably not a very good link to the alternator find something on the block, that bolt might work but you can do better
the other bolts should be a good spot for grounding

btw post pictures of the alt and stuff so maybe ppl here can tell us how to do alt+ to batt+
where is an exhaust //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wow.gif.23d729408e9177caa2a0ed6a2ba6588e.gif

 
Well, I didn't jack the car when I did it. I just tightened the bolt so it wouldn't tighten anymore - the bolt is pretty easy to "feel," it either is as tight as it gets or is loose enough to unscrew by hand (it felt like the other bolts on the mount, you know when it won't go anymore). I did not use the center one, as it dips down. Not sure how adding a little ring terminal will screw up my suspension, seems like it might alter it slightly, but the force of the bolt on the mount should still be the same. I used the top right bolt.

I discovered that my stock block to chassis ground was extremely corroded. After doing this, the car idled hella smooth (even smoother than I had it, after doing another ground somewhere else and cleaning/maintenance work).

 
Well, I didn't jack the car when I did it. I just tightened the bolt so it wouldn't tighten anymore - the bolt is pretty easy to "feel," it either is as tight as it gets or is loose enough to unscrew by hand (it felt like the other bolts on the mount, you know when it won't go anymore). I did not use the center one, as it dips down. Not sure how adding a little ring terminal will screw up my suspension, seems like it might alter it slightly, but the force of the bolt on the mount should still be the same.
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/needpics.gif.edd6d28e76618c28c46f343991bcced5.gif

 
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