Dynamat xtreme question

SRim23
5,000+ posts

CarAudio.com Veteran
just wondering if dynamat ever goes bad? does it ever wear out? Is there ever a time that you need to re-install new sound deadener.

Just curious going to have some time off work and was going to be bored lol thought i might re deaden some pieces of the car that seem to be vibrating a little more.

 
what if i have a honda civic and the car is like a tin can lol and i decided i wanted more, do i just slap some more on top of the old. and how much more would just be overkill?

 
add as much as you want, i dynamated the shit out of my trunk, i used the dynamat trunk kit , was pretty expensive but i found out it worked really well, it did wonders with the rattling and vibration. i was skeptical at first now i know the shit works. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
None of the butyl mats like Dynamat Xtreme will go bad. Asphalt will, as the volatile compounds that keep it flexible evaporate over time. Butyl stays flexible and actually forms a stronger bond over time.

If you are asking about it going bad because what you have installed doesn't seem to be as effective as it used to be, there are a few possibilities. If it's asphalt, what I said before. If it's butyl, you could have installed it onto a greasy surface, in which case it might not be in contact with the sheet metal anymore.

For any of this stuff to work, it has to make really tight contact with the substrate. Clean surface and no air bubbles under it. What's most likely is that you have just gotten used to the level of sound deadening you achieved and want more - just like everything else that's good //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

You can pretty much tell if you have reached the point of diminishing returns by tapping on the sheet metal. If it rings at all, you can use more. If it makes a dull thud, you'd be wasting your time. Assuming you have enough vibration damper (like Dyna-X) installed, there is still a lot you can do. The next most effective step is covering the areas you have already treated with 1/8" - 1/4" closed cell foam like Ensolite or Neoprene. In my experience, this makes a huge difference, adds very little weight and is not too expensive. If you want a quiet car, and/or a sound system that sounds its best, this is a critical step. I've got it everywhere - inside my doors, lining the tunk, under the carpet, above the headliner and behind all trim panels to keep them from rattling.

 
My Dynamat Extreme went bad //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

From burping my van over the last year I put actual holes in it from the vibration. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fro.gif.c695f1f814b01c4ad99fe7f8cccadd29.gif

 
add as much as you want, i dynamated the shit out of my trunk, i used the dynamat trunk kit , was pretty expensive but i found out it worked really well, it did wonders with the rattling and vibration. i was skeptical at first now i know the shit works. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
Was that the "original" trunk kit or the "Xtreme" trunk kit.????

 
None of the butyl mats like Dynamat Xtreme will go bad. Asphalt will, as the volatile compounds that keep it flexible evaporate over time. Butyl stays flexible and actually forms a stronger bond over time.
If you are asking about it going bad because what you have installed doesn't seem to be as effective as it used to be, there are a few possibilities. If it's asphalt, what I said before. If it's butyl, you could have installed it onto a greasy surface, in which case it might not be in contact with the sheet metal anymore.

For any of this stuff to work, it has to make really tight contact with the substrate. Clean surface and no air bubbles under it. What's most likely is that you have just gotten used to the level of sound deadening you achieved and want more - just like everything else that's good //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

You can pretty much tell if you have reached the point of diminishing returns by tapping on the sheet metal. If it rings at all, you can use more. If it makes a dull thud, you'd be wasting your time. Assuming you have enough vibration damper (like Dyna-X) installed, there is still a lot you can do. The next most effective step is covering the areas you have already treated with 1/8" - 1/4" closed cell foam like Ensolite or Neoprene. In my experience, this makes a huge difference, adds very little weight and is not too expensive. If you want a quiet car, and/or a sound system that sounds its best, this is a critical step. I've got it everywhere - inside my doors, lining the tunk, under the carpet, above the headliner and behind all trim panels to keep them from rattling.
Good post. I also followed your link and read the whole article comparing all the deadener on the market. The only thing it didn't cover is where LIQUID deadener compares to the mats. I was wondering if you knew anything about that. I'm doing my doors in Dynamat Extreme and the floor and trunk in Cascade liquid or a combination of that and mat.

Any thoughts??

 
Good post. I also followed your link and read the whole article comparing all the deadener on the market. The only thing it didn't cover is where LIQUID deadener compares to the mats. I was wondering if you knew anything about that. I'm doing my doors in Dynamat Extreme and the floor and trunk in Cascade liquid or a combination of that and mat.
Any thoughts??
I'm updating that site right now to cover liquids and a few more mats. It's impossible to say exactly how the different mats and liquids compare to each other in effectiveness. The Acoustic Loss Factor tests that the manufacturers publish are not accurate and since it costs $600 per sample to have them run, I'm not going to do it. That said, there are some general principles that apply and I've used a lot of both types myself.

The two types of vibration dampers we are using are the aluminum faced mats, which are classified as constrained layer viscoelastic vibration dampers (CLVED) and Mylar or PE faced mats, unfaced mats and liquids or extendional viscoelastic dampers (VED). We're not including asphalt products since they aren't viscoelastic at all. All of these things add mass to panels. Those with viscoelastic properties bring much more effectiveness to the table.

CLVEDs are much more effective per unit of thickness that plain VEDs. In an optimal configuration, a plain VED would need to be at least 3 times thicker to work as well as a CLVED. Unfortunately, none of the products available to us are optimally configured. I think it is safe to assume that the aluminum clad sound deadening mats are at least somewhat more effective than the others, everything else being equal. The foil layer also makes them a better barrier.

The testing I've seen shows that mats and liquids are most effective over slightly different frequency ranges. This makes sense when you consider that the liquids are quite a bit less flexible when cured. This suggests, and my own experience supports the idea that, applying liquid on top of mat is more effective than either mat or liquid alone. For example, 1mm of mat covered by 1mm of liquid seems to work better than 2mm of either.

 
You should get some Cactus Sounds DB Blue and MagicMate 400 to add into your Sound Deadener Showdown. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/naughty.gif.94359f346c0f1259df8038d60b41863e.gif
Never heard of the first one. Is MagicMate the stuff you heat to add rigidity?

 
Yes. Cactus Sounds db blue is a paste while MM400 is like Dynamat when applied then heated to harden.

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