Dynamat worth it!

[rovster]

I have that other thread on a system for my truck. I know the answer to the above question is yes but curious what your thoughts were. Crutchfield has a vehicle specific kit for my truck it’s basically a sheet for each door. It’s a few hundred bucks.

Reason I ask is it’s a lifted truck so I get a good amount of road noise and vibration from the AT tire. I’m not willing to treat the entire cab so wondering if just treating the doors will make a significant enough difference to justify the cost and aggravation. Thanks!

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[Bass Addict 10+ year member]

Short answer is,hell yes ! i have it on my back wall,rear two doors, (needed it bad the way nissan designed this truck),and floor from seats back.Huge improvement and still need and will do the front doors when ever this damm cold weather will ever go AWAY.keeps sound in for the most part making it louder without the road noise.i posted a video in the help with batteries thread and you will see the diff when i open my truck door and then closed how well this stuff works.

 

[Firewalker]

Dynamat while it works is overpriced because of the name. Look at a group on facebook called The Deadening. A person there spent thousands of dollars on equipment to test all of the sound deadner that has been made. He found out that Resonix is the best and Second Skin is 2nd across the board for noise removal and so on. Many of these sound deadner these days like Killmat, Noico and a couple others are from the same company and are asphalt based not butyl based like Resonix, Second Skin and Dynamat. How much are they charging just for a "special" kit for your vehicle? I picked up over 40 square feet of Second Skin for 180 dollars shipped on Amazon last time I bought it and last time I looked it was 210 dollars shipped. It doesn't take much to do doors.

 

[rovster]

Correction was not dynamat it’s sound skins. I like the idea it’s vehicle specific and willing to pay a little more for ease of installation and fitment….

 

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

Peel and Seal ...the poor mans dynamat ...available in roofing section of your fine hardware retailers ..such as Lowes , home depot ect ...its about 1/4 price of high dollar name brands like dynamat , stinger ect and even foil backed it can be used in engine bay and on hood as a heat shield or for cleanup appearance installs

 

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

Actually under but on hood not on that sounds like top of and that may create a mess lol....

 

[Firewalker]

330 dollars is insane for just enough sound deadener to do 4 doors. All you need is a couple roller tools, some scissors and some patience. NO way would I pay 330 dollars for 23 square feet of something when I could get Resonix or Second Skin in 40 square feet packages for less then that.

You want to use butyl based not asphalt based. Otherwise it stinks, it melts and can cause a lot of issues.

40 square feet for 199.99. Or 60 bucks for 10 square feet of it. And a set of rollers as well which helps put it on, few different kits from 9 bucks up to 20 on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FDX6A6C/?tag=caraudiocom-20

 

[metalheadjoe 10+ year member]

I recommend rockmat by rockville. They found something they can't **** up.

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Mass loaded vinyl is what you want to quiet road noise. CLD tiles in the doors are not going to make a noticeable difference.

 

[rovster]

Guys just to be clear, I'm not necessarily doing this to cut out road noise I am willing to accept its a loud truck my question was if it would be worth the aggravation of treating the doors since I'm goint to be pulling panels anyway, knowing I don't plan on treating the rest of the truck. At this point in my life I want easy and practical, and I'm willing to put up with some degree of compromise! Thanks!

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

If you have the door panels off and upgrading speakers yes. To cut down on road noise I would do 100% coverage of floor and firewall with MLV and CCF.

 

[HardofWhoring]

I did my entire vehicle with dynamat, and:
1. The roof asphalt garbage is not made for your vehicle. Not only does it stink, it doesn't last, or work as well.

2. I wouldn't buy any specific vehicle kit unless the price is right inline. I have only worked with dynamat, but it is incredibly simple to use. As long as you don't leave it outside in the cold it shapes and cuts very easily. On concave (curved like a bowl) corners, you just cut up the bend, and double it up. You can cut it with scissors, or a blade/boxcutter, and shape it before removing the sticky backing. The only tool you want is the roller which costs about $5. If the entire job of the door panel removal, speaker removal, installing, takes an hour, then cutting yourself probably adds 2-5 minutes. You can decide if it's worth it, (probably not).

3. If your tire noise is the biggest issue, then the doors might not be what you want to do. The sound deadener is a sound barrier. Your doors are not between you and your tires. Your doors are best at blocking out the noise from OTHER vehicles. When I did my entire pickup cab, doing the floor and the back wall is what quieted the noise down from my own vehicle. That is what helped quiet down my exhaust, engine, tires, road noise from entering my vehicle. Doors are usually the first thing for most people, but most people's priority is not their own tire noise.

 

[Jimi77 5,000+ posts]

I did my entire vehicle with dynamat, and:
1. The roof asphalt garbage is not made for your vehicle. Not only does it stink, it doesn't last, or work as well.

2. I wouldn't buy any specific vehicle kit unless the price is right inline. I have only worked with dynamat, but it is incredibly simple to use. As long as you don't leave it outside in the cold it shapes and cuts very easily. On concave (curved like a bowl) corners, you just cut up the bend, and double it up. You can cut it with scissors, or a blade/boxcutter, and shape it before removing the sticky backing. The only tool you want is the roller which costs about $5. If the entire job of the door panel removal, speaker removal, installing, takes an hour, then cutting yourself probably adds 2-5 minutes. You can decide if it's worth it, (probably not).

3. If your tire noise is the biggest issue, then the doors might not be what you want to do. The sound deadener is a sound barrier. Your doors are not between you and your tires. Your doors are best at blocking out the noise from OTHER vehicles. When I did my entire pickup cab, doing the floor and the back wall is what quieted the noise down from my own vehicle. That is what helped quiet down my exhaust, engine, tires, road noise from entering my vehicle. Doors are usually the first thing for most people, but most people's priority is not their own tire noise.

Right product in the right place.

 

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

Im getting ready to add deadning to 2 of my vehicles ...my square body S10 and my Prius

 

[rovster]

I did my entire vehicle with dynamat, and:
1. The roof asphalt garbage is not made for your vehicle. Not only does it stink, it doesn't last, or work as well.

2. I wouldn't buy any specific vehicle kit unless the price is right inline. I have only worked with dynamat, but it is incredibly simple to use. As long as you don't leave it outside in the cold it shapes and cuts very easily. On concave (curved like a bowl) corners, you just cut up the bend, and double it up. You can cut it with scissors, or a blade/boxcutter, and shape it before removing the sticky backing. The only tool you want is the roller which costs about $5. If the entire job of the door panel removal, speaker removal, installing, takes an hour, then cutting yourself probably adds 2-5 minutes. You can decide if it's worth it, (probably not).

3. If your tire noise is the biggest issue, then the doors might not be what you want to do. The sound deadener is a sound barrier. Your doors are not between you and your tires. Your doors are best at blocking out the noise from OTHER vehicles. When I did my entire pickup cab, doing the floor and the back wall is what quieted the noise down from my own vehicle. That is what helped quiet down my exhaust, engine, tires, road noise from entering my vehicle. Doors are usually the first thing for most people, but most people's priority is not their own tire noise.

Thanks for the response. Are you saying applying takes a hour per door? Or if I already have the door off it only adds a few minutes to the install?

Honestly the road noise from the tires and exhaust does not bother me I figured dampening the doors would be of limited benefit was just curious if it made enough of a difference to justify the aggravation and cost since I will probably have to pull the panel to run wires and or possibly cut a hole for a tweeter. Not really interested in pulling the seats and the floors to treat the entire cab just figured it would be one of those "while I'm there" type deals. Thanks again!

 

[rooty-j]

Yeah, no need to buy a pre-made kit for damping, like Dyna Mat. Just buy some quality product, like Resonix or Second Skin, cut and roll your own. You're not looking for 100% coverage anyways, so pre-cut isn't really a value.

 

[HardofWhoring]

Applying it takes a minute or two per large sheet once it's ready to go on. One door is probably 5 extra minutes if you are already swapping speakers.

Think of it as trying to take a large 1ft x 2ft piece of REALLY sticky tape, trying to mostly line it up, then running the roller over it to press it down. It's simple, if you really need more than that, I'm sure there are youtube videos that show the process.

 

[SilverSquared 10+ year member]

I like kilmat, fatmat, 66mat, whatever it was. I have like 4 layers on my roof and rear wall, and only spent like $200, tops. Even did my entire rear doors with 2 layers. Sounds like a damn $50k coffin when I close my doors, just sayin

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I like kilmat, fatmat, 66mat, whatever it was. I have like 4 layers on my roof and rear wall, and only spent like $200, tops. Even did my entire rear doors with 2 layers. Sounds like a damn $50k coffin when I close my doors, just sayin

I used 80 mill. Fat Mat. Works very well with 3 layers. I cleaned all areas with Dawn Soap to get as much grease and grime and dirt up, then used alcohol 91% for the final Prep stage.Used a box Knife and deff.used gloves, that stuff doesnt look like it, but can be razor sharp.Put 1stlayer on and rolled it.Didnt look like it was going to stick very well, So, i used a heat gun just to warm it up and hit with roller and Stuck pretty solid.Did save for Dynamat and some from Vertex Audio when they were around,Deff the way to go to heat up and make it stick, dont melt itbut get it warmed up and rollit.has worked great. Ive never experienced any bad fumes or smells from using fat Mat and Im in TX where inside vehicle temps can reach over 120*

 

[SilverSquared 10+ year member]

Didnt look like it was going to stick very well, So, i used a heat gun just to warm it up and hit with roller and Stuck pretty solid.

Mine was 80mil as well. I installed mine in the middle of the summer, and I had mine all laid out in the driveway to get hot. I had a heat gun, but only used it for the super tight bends. Think I used it in my rear doors as well because I did those at night. Ashamed I'm changing all 4 doors on my truck. I'll be layering them again.