Dynamat trunk kit?

[stay_high 10+ year member]

Do these really make bass louder and sound better? Would it worth the $97 price tag for 2 12's at 1k rms? How hard is this stuff to install?

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[Wingsfreak9 10+ year member]

100% worth it imo. adds mass and reduces rattle/vibration. id be more concerned about deadening my doors before my trunk though. also id look into audiotechnix or really any other brand deadener than dynamat.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

think of dynamat as heavy stickers that you cut yourself. application requires you clean the metal surfaces, cut pieces that fit the application area, stick on pieces of deadener, and use a roller to press the deadener down. that easy.

the results are usually quite noticeable. we deadened a dodge neon back in the 90's that had a single flat PPI 10" in a sealed box. Before vs. after was an amazing difference - went from a weak 10" to the output of a strong 12" or pair of 10's.

where you apply the deadener is key. most people do the trunk lid, rear deck, and the sides of the trunk walls. i use it to seal openings in the rear deck when i have a pathway through the rear seat opening. i also stuff open cell foam in the gaps between the wheel wells and the outer body panels on both sides of the trunk. of course, my goal is to reduce vehicle resonance frequencies and make my bass response less peaky and more accurate.

at first pass you would expect deadener to reduce bass output by reducing panel vibrations. but the effect is the opposite - the deadener also adds mass to the panels - resulting in less energy being wasted moving those panels. if SPL is your goal - you want to stiffen everything. panel vibrations is energy wasted is dB lost. deader that acts as true viscoelastic damping is not the right product for SPL gains.

a lot of times, the added deadner is added weight on the trunk lid which helps maintain the seal - resulting in increased output. in general - seal leaks and you increase SPL. keep in mind - you also want a clear path between the sub and the listening position (i.e. cabin).

 

---------- Post added at 06:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:03 PM ----------

 

i have had good luck with Raammaudio BXT II

 

[MANTI5 10+ year member]

Sound Deadener Showdown - Your Source for Sound Deadening Products and Information

Email Don and he'll help you out with what you'll need.

 

[Wingsfreak9 10+ year member]

think of dynamat as heavy stickers that you cut yourself. application requires you clean the metal surfaces, cut pieces that fit the application area, stick on pieces of deadener, and use a roller to press the deadener down. that easy.
the results are usually quite noticeable. we deadened a dodge neon back in the 90's that had a single flat PPI 10" in a sealed box. Before vs. after was an amazing difference - went from a weak 10" to the output of a strong 12" or pair of 10's.

where you apply the deadener is key. most people do the trunk lid, rear deck, and the sides of the trunk walls. i use it to seal openings in the rear deck when i have a pathway through the rear seat opening. i also stuff open cell foam in the gaps between the wheel wells and the outer body panels on both sides of the trunk. of course, my goal is to reduce vehicle resonance frequencies and make my bass response less peaky and more accurate.

at first pass you would expect deadener to reduce bass output by reducing panel vibrations. but the effect is the opposite - the deadener also adds mass to the panels - resulting in less energy being wasted moving those panels. if SPL is your goal - you want to stiffen everything. panel vibrations is energy wasted is dB lost. deader that acts as true viscoelastic damping is not the right product for SPL gains.

a lot of times, the added deadner is added weight on the trunk lid which helps maintain the seal - resulting in increased output. in general - seal leaks and you increase SPL. keep in mind - you also want a clear path between the sub and the listening position (i.e. cabin).

 

---------- Post added at 06:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:03 PM ----------

 

i have had good luck with Raammaudio BXT II

i guess my response was unnecessary lol pretty much summed it all up.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

i guess my response was unnecessary lol pretty much summed it all up.

the more the merrier!

 

[zako 10+ year member]

I have used Raammat BXT2/Ensolite products and also Dynamat/Dynaliner. These are virtually the same, but Raammat product are much cheaper. Take a look at the current offers at raammaudio.com. They have a good tutorial too.

I have sound proofed my front doors using Dynamat products. I used the 30-50% coverage on the exterior door skin (there is no point to use more or treat any bent surfaces). I also sealed the mid section with dynamat and dynaliner completely. The immediate result was tighter, better bass, and less rattles (however, they were not eliminated 100%). The trunk and rear doors I tried with raammat products.

It may seem strange, but the immediate feeling I got after treating the trunk was.. less bass, but it got tighter, or maybe my ears screwing around with my mind. I think this is not entirely impossible that you feel a little less bass (maybe 1-2dB less) once the trunk is treated. The possible reason is that low frequency sound resonated the trunk lid, floor, etc, and those surfaces actually added more 'noise' that was originally mistaken for bass.

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

Deadening is a night and day difference, definitely worth the time and money. However, paying for Dynamat is not, it's just an over-priced name brand product. I'd look in to SecondSkin, Sounddeadenershowdown, or Audiotechnix. Personally I have experience with Audiotechnix and have been exceptionally pleased. one 25sqft roll has been enough to treat my trunk lid, rear deck, and front doors. Still with some left over.