joetama
ngsm13
5,000+ posts
BSEE
I concur.
NG
NG
joetama
5,000+ posts
The British Ear
Or not...
Calc test thursday, Macroeconomics test monday, U.S. Politics test tuesday, and a trip to Mississippi on friday-sunday.
All in due time my fellow audio addicts, all in due time.
joetama
5,000+ posts
The British Ear
I'm workin on tryin to pass the **** calc test first man.
Quick Rundown on Woodworking
Ok, some of you guys may be thinking, “I’ve built a few boxes for some subs, they sounded good, I know my way around a wood shop.” Wrong. First off, if you are still in high school, take a woods class, and take it as much as you can, it is one of the best places to learn carpenter tricks. Some bonus of woods classes in high school is cheap wood -oak, walnut, or pine usually- good tools kept in good working condition, and they usually are stocked with LOTS of tools and table space.
Always take the motto of “Measure twice, cut once” to heart, if necessary measure three or four times, then cut. You should believe me when I say this (although you won’t) it is A LOT cheaper to make the cuts right the first time. You have no idea how much of a pain it is to screw up a piece of beautiful walnut with a bad measurement and have to remake one that doesn’t look near as good because you used all the good wood you have already (been there, done that).
Table saws are an AWSOME tool to have in a shop. If you are in the market for one, don’t skimp on it. When you get it in your shop, make a table that extends out to the right of the blade at least 60” but try for 90” so you can cut a full 4’x8’ sheet of plywood on it easily. Buy the best quality aluminum fence that you can, once again don’t skimp here. The out-feed table is something that is sometimes overlooked, ok, you can cut a wide board, but what happens when it falls off the table half way through a cut? It isn’t hard to make a table to help “tail-off” the stock, or just get some ball bearing rollers and go at it from that angle. Which ever way you look at it, you NEED to have extra table space to the right of the blade and to the back.
When selecting a miter gauge I would suggest having two of them, a fixed one and an adjustable one. If you have an option, get ones constructed out of aluminum that way they don’t spark if/when you cut them with the blade. The adjustable one is for the 45 degree cuts etc, for everything else, use the fixed one; it is more accurate and doesn’t come loose.
When looking at the blades you can buy for a table saw or router bits or anything with a sharp edge, GET CARBIDE. Carbide edged blades will stay sharp for a long time if you are using them for personal use. Keep in mind that carbide is very strong, but also very brittle and if you drop one, it will break the carbide off of a couple teeth. If you are getting really nitpicky about what you are doing, better find another blade to put on instead of the cracked one. Another bonus of carbide, the stuff that is used in the saw blades, shaper heads, router bits, etc, is the same grade of carbide that is used to cut aluminum, so if/when you nick your equipment, no biggie, it doesn’t hurt the blade.
When working with any type of wood, oak, walnut, pine, birch, cottonwood, any type of wood that ISN”T a plywood. If the board is wider than six inches, you need to make it out of multiple boards, this is so it doesn’t warp. Say if you have a board that you need a board rough size of 1.5’x4’ you would need three boards 6”x4’, using a biscuit jointer putting biscuits in about 6” from each end and 10”-14” in between throughout the rest of the joint. Now before you biscuit any board, you HAVE to run them through the jointer or table saw depending on what exactly you are doing and how you cut them. The sides have to fit flush together, any gap over (my rule of thumb here) 1/32” is unacceptable and you need to re-run across the jointer in order to get it correct. Once you have the sides square and flush with the biscuits cut in them, time to glue. I assume you know how to glue, so stick some clamps on them, and glue.
Once glue is dry, you need to find yourself a glue scraper and go to town and get all the excess glue off of the project BEFORE you try to sand it. If you sand it before the glue is off, you ruin your sand paper. You will be severely pissed if someone else runs a non scrapped board through the drum sander and the sand paper is ruined when you need to use it, believe me, I’ve been the pissed one.
My favorite tool to sand is a random orbital sander, it works awesome to knock down rises and get out scratches, but you do have to be careful not to make divots in your board with it because it does work fast. After that I move up to a pad sander with 80/120/180 grit sand paper to do the finish sanding.
When working with Walnut, you will have A LOT of scratches to get out, it isn’t near as hard as Oak, and shows scratches very well, so if it looks like a scratch, it is, and no your not done sanding. Walnut takes A LOT of work to get it to look perfect, but when you do, it is beautiful.
Remember, a properly built enclosure is a lot better then having a poor constructed box with a lot of caulking, the perfect cuts and glue to hold the project together will be you caulk, you should need nothing else in order to seal it.
Things I would recommend for a shop
Table Saw*
Clamps (lots of them)*
90 degree corner clamps, they are like 8 bucks and worth every penny*
Jointer*
Sander
A big work table
Power miter box
Radial Arm saw
The ones with the “*” beside them, that is what I would deem necessary in a shop, everything else is nice, but you don’t HAVE to have. If you get into furniture making, cabinetry, stuff more complicated than speaker boxes –for example, a futon recliner-- you will be better off with more tools.
If requested, I might be able to throw something together on dado joints, a little bit on finishing, and possibly some other stuff as I think of it. This is a work in progress that I threw together in 30 minutes; bear with the bad grammar and misspellings. These words are not to be meant as God’s word, just some ramblings of a wood worker, if you want pictures evidence of my work, I can get them for you. But if you don’t, you will just have to take my word for my competence in a wood shop. If you have questions, feel free to PM me or post them up, I don’t mean to try to say that I am all knowing, but I know a little something about working in a wood shop (well maybe more than a little about woodworking).
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif 2 pages in microsoft word....
Ok, some of you guys may be thinking, “I’ve built a few boxes for some subs, they sounded good, I know my way around a wood shop.” Wrong. First off, if you are still in high school, take a woods class, and take it as much as you can, it is one of the best places to learn carpenter tricks. Some bonus of woods classes in high school is cheap wood -oak, walnut, or pine usually- good tools kept in good working condition, and they usually are stocked with LOTS of tools and table space.
Always take the motto of “Measure twice, cut once” to heart, if necessary measure three or four times, then cut. You should believe me when I say this (although you won’t) it is A LOT cheaper to make the cuts right the first time. You have no idea how much of a pain it is to screw up a piece of beautiful walnut with a bad measurement and have to remake one that doesn’t look near as good because you used all the good wood you have already (been there, done that).
Table saws are an AWSOME tool to have in a shop. If you are in the market for one, don’t skimp on it. When you get it in your shop, make a table that extends out to the right of the blade at least 60” but try for 90” so you can cut a full 4’x8’ sheet of plywood on it easily. Buy the best quality aluminum fence that you can, once again don’t skimp here. The out-feed table is something that is sometimes overlooked, ok, you can cut a wide board, but what happens when it falls off the table half way through a cut? It isn’t hard to make a table to help “tail-off” the stock, or just get some ball bearing rollers and go at it from that angle. Which ever way you look at it, you NEED to have extra table space to the right of the blade and to the back.
When selecting a miter gauge I would suggest having two of them, a fixed one and an adjustable one. If you have an option, get ones constructed out of aluminum that way they don’t spark if/when you cut them with the blade. The adjustable one is for the 45 degree cuts etc, for everything else, use the fixed one; it is more accurate and doesn’t come loose.
When looking at the blades you can buy for a table saw or router bits or anything with a sharp edge, GET CARBIDE. Carbide edged blades will stay sharp for a long time if you are using them for personal use. Keep in mind that carbide is very strong, but also very brittle and if you drop one, it will break the carbide off of a couple teeth. If you are getting really nitpicky about what you are doing, better find another blade to put on instead of the cracked one. Another bonus of carbide, the stuff that is used in the saw blades, shaper heads, router bits, etc, is the same grade of carbide that is used to cut aluminum, so if/when you nick your equipment, no biggie, it doesn’t hurt the blade.
When working with any type of wood, oak, walnut, pine, birch, cottonwood, any type of wood that ISN”T a plywood. If the board is wider than six inches, you need to make it out of multiple boards, this is so it doesn’t warp. Say if you have a board that you need a board rough size of 1.5’x4’ you would need three boards 6”x4’, using a biscuit jointer putting biscuits in about 6” from each end and 10”-14” in between throughout the rest of the joint. Now before you biscuit any board, you HAVE to run them through the jointer or table saw depending on what exactly you are doing and how you cut them. The sides have to fit flush together, any gap over (my rule of thumb here) 1/32” is unacceptable and you need to re-run across the jointer in order to get it correct. Once you have the sides square and flush with the biscuits cut in them, time to glue. I assume you know how to glue, so stick some clamps on them, and glue.
Once glue is dry, you need to find yourself a glue scraper and go to town and get all the excess glue off of the project BEFORE you try to sand it. If you sand it before the glue is off, you ruin your sand paper. You will be severely pissed if someone else runs a non scrapped board through the drum sander and the sand paper is ruined when you need to use it, believe me, I’ve been the pissed one.
My favorite tool to sand is a random orbital sander, it works awesome to knock down rises and get out scratches, but you do have to be careful not to make divots in your board with it because it does work fast. After that I move up to a pad sander with 80/120/180 grit sand paper to do the finish sanding.
When working with Walnut, you will have A LOT of scratches to get out, it isn’t near as hard as Oak, and shows scratches very well, so if it looks like a scratch, it is, and no your not done sanding. Walnut takes A LOT of work to get it to look perfect, but when you do, it is beautiful.
Remember, a properly built enclosure is a lot better then having a poor constructed box with a lot of caulking, the perfect cuts and glue to hold the project together will be you caulk, you should need nothing else in order to seal it.
Things I would recommend for a shop
Table Saw*
Clamps (lots of them)*
90 degree corner clamps, they are like 8 bucks and worth every penny*
Jointer*
Sander
A big work table
Power miter box
Radial Arm saw
The ones with the “*” beside them, that is what I would deem necessary in a shop, everything else is nice, but you don’t HAVE to have. If you get into furniture making, cabinetry, stuff more complicated than speaker boxes –for example, a futon recliner-- you will be better off with more tools.
If requested, I might be able to throw something together on dado joints, a little bit on finishing, and possibly some other stuff as I think of it. This is a work in progress that I threw together in 30 minutes; bear with the bad grammar and misspellings. These words are not to be meant as God’s word, just some ramblings of a wood worker, if you want pictures evidence of my work, I can get them for you. But if you don’t, you will just have to take my word for my competence in a wood shop. If you have questions, feel free to PM me or post them up, I don’t mean to try to say that I am all knowing, but I know a little something about working in a wood shop (well maybe more than a little about woodworking).
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif 2 pages in microsoft word....
If more is requested, or I am just wasting my effort typing this, let me know, I could provide a lot more info, but I wasen't sure on how much would be pointless and how much is requested. I know alot more about furniture and that stuff, but the building techniques are the same nevertheless.
I WANT YOUR FEEDBACK.
I WANT YOUR FEEDBACK.
swc204
10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
sounds about right
you don't need to explain furniture making or joints because they need to be taught in person at a wood shop class to learn right....
post some pics of your work if you have any. I would post some of mine but i just sold some pieces and my camera took a dump on me, but i might take some when i make some chairs this weekend if i can get a camera...
you don't need to explain furniture making or joints because they need to be taught in person at a wood shop class to learn right....
post some pics of your work if you have any. I would post some of mine but i just sold some pieces and my camera took a dump on me, but i might take some when i make some chairs this weekend if i can get a camera...
I will try to get some pics when I go home this weekend for ya'll.
Beat_Dominator
5,000+ posts
Yea, thats Mecha Godzilla
I learned it all from watching the New Yankee workshop......
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