Driver Side Kick pod worklog + Random pics.

[Cam 10+ year member]

So, instead of laying mat down overtop of the layer of tape, you just 3M glued a piece of fabric to it and then resin'd it? Sounds much easier...any other pros/cons to that way?

No, it works quite well. If you want to add glass for stiffness it makes it quite easy because you can do it out of the car. Like I said, the only PITA was the fact that it started to come unglued when I soaked it. You could get around this by building up light coats of resin on it, so it doesn't soak through I think, but I'm impatient. Or, do like crazy40oz did in his buildup and use something non-soluble in polyester resin like hot glue, or better yet, contact cement or polyurethane paint on stuff. The only nice thing about the spray on is you can spray the topside of the tape, and stick the fleece down... if there's problems just peel and restick.

 

[LeofromtheH 10+ year member]

btw, what kind of 6.5 is that?

 

[Cam 10+ year member]

Pioneer TS-C1653.

 

[THUNDERBIRD 10+ year member]

looks nice, but are you going to be welding in a piece of sheet metal in the huge hole? personally i would.

 

[supraman1379 10+ year member]

Nice

 

[Cam 10+ year member]

looks nice, but are you going to be welding in a piece of sheet metal in the huge hole? personally i would.

No, no - the big unfinished sub tub goes in that hole. Otherwise I fill the cab with exhaust from that 3" pipe you see ending right underneath that hole

 

[Cam 10+ year member]

looks nice, but are you going to be welding in a piece of sheet metal in the huge hole? personally i would.

As I described earlier, this is the tub, fitted into that hole:

and from below:

Got a layer or two of glass onto the formed fleece.

 

[chibahawk 10+ year member]

lookin smooth

 

[Cam 10+ year member]

Got it cut to approximate size last night:

This is how it looks so far in the car

I noticed a couple stanknesses with the mold so far, that will need to be fixed - firstly it's not tall enough to slide under the existing trim:

And second, where it goes around the hood release handle, it looks like a day-old scab:

To fix this, I used a scrap o' cardboard to mock the door jamb, and wrapped that in fleece:

I did something similar to remedy the day-old-scab situation near the hood latch, and resin and glassed it. Hopefully after some cutting tonight, I should have something that looks like what I want.

 

[Cam 10+ year member]

Trimmed and re-fit into the car - stankness has been reduced:

Sitting on the floor:

Making sure the speaker still fits behind the ebrake pedal:

Screwed to an MDF ring:

Held in place with a peice of tongue depressor and some hot glue:

Dowels added for support:

Fleece wrapped:

We'll see how well hot glue holds up this time for holding the fleece in place. I should get around to painting on some resin this evening.

 

[CELLERBR 10+ year member]

So if you push the emergency brake pedal isnt there a huge chance of your foot raping the speaker?

 

[Cam 10+ year member]

I will have to be careful, yes. I will run a grill, too.

I also very rarely use the ebrake pedal, so that helps. Eventually I want to build a console and put a handbrake in it, so I can ditch the foot brake and maybe even go to a manual transmission, but that aint anytime soon.

 

[Cam 10+ year member]

keep in mind also the ebrake is shown already depressed and locked in those photos.

 

[PowerNaudio 10+ year member]

looking good so far.

for door pods and kicks i like using this method.

tape the area where you want the kick pods at then trace on the tape with a marker how you want the enclosure shape to be "for later cut" it will transfer over to the fiberglass. for triming when you separate it from the tape. youll also get a tighter fit on the floor and carpet. then you resin the tape a couple of times with a brunsh, where you traced with the marker, then let dry, resing once more and once it starts getting sticky, but before it dryes, you can start laying the fiberglass mat and it will stick to the resin for you to start applyng the resin and more mat. and it would be stronger then the fleese. and a little easyer to work with as well, since you dont have to deal with stuff falling off.

but look very good. the way your doing it.

but on the door area it looks like if it would of been tighter on to the metal it would of looked better.

laters

 

[Cam 10+ year member]

looking good so far.
for door pods and kicks i like using this method.

tape the area where you want the kick pods at then trace on the tape with a marker how you want the enclosure shape to be "for later cut" it will transfer over to the fiberglass. for triming when you separate it from the tape. youll also get a tighter fit on the floor and carpet. then you resin the tape a couple of times with a brunsh, where you traced with the marker, then let dry, resing once more and once it starts getting sticky, but before it dryes, you can start laying the fiberglass mat and it will stick to the resin for you to start applyng the resin and more mat. and it would be stronger then the fleese. and a little easyer to work with as well, since you dont have to deal with stuff falling off.

but look very good. the way your doing it.

but on the door area it looks like if it would of been tighter on to the metal it would of looked better.

laters

Your method would have probably come out nicer. Maybe next time I'll give that a try. It sounds like it would be more time consuming and you'd obviously have to carefully mask off the carpet to avoid accidents, but all that is doable.

I am not quite happy with the way it fits the door jamb yet either, and I think I'll likely rework that a bit, but if I'd had something better right out of the gate, I wouldn't have to.