**** don't work

[jmeif420]

So here's my story...I wanted some bass nothing too spectacular, so I bought a 10" alpine type e and a kicker 400 watt amp. Got it hooked up and worked good. It wasn't too secure in the trunk and considering the size of the box it moved around a lot, until one day it stooped working. Checked all my connections and didn't find anything to be out of the ordinary, the amp still had power. Then I ended up purchasing a new head unit since I still had the factory one, after replacing that and purchasing a new set of rca plugs it still didn't work. Then I hooked up a different amp and still no sound, I have a dmm but not sure if I'm using it correctly. I tested the rca wires with it and it stayed at 0...positive on the inner part and negative on the shell is what I did when testing. Any other suggestions are welcome as I am ready to just say **** it and just have a $200 weight in the trunk

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[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

push on the cone to see if the sub's broken. Check your power and ground along with your speaker wiring, if its flopping around, good chance that something got loose.

 

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

So here's my story...I wanted some bass nothing too spectacular, so I bought a 10" alpine type e and a kicker 400 watt amp. Got it hooked up and worked good. It wasn't too secure in the trunk and considering the size of the box it moved around a lot, until one day it stooped working. Checked all my connections and didn't find anything to be out of the ordinary, the amp still had power. Then I ended up purchasing a new head unit since I still had the factory one, after replacing that and purchasing a new set of rca plugs it still didn't work. Then I hooked up a different amp and still no sound, I have a dmm but not sure if I'm using it correctly. I tested the rca wires with it and it stayed at 0...positive on the inner part and negative on the shell is what I did when testing. Any other suggestions are welcome as I am ready to just say **** it and just have a $200 weight in the trunk

You need to purchase a $20 basic DMM at Walmart so you can do some accurate testing...too much involved to guess and take shots in the dark...You can test speaker ohm loads...proper ground resistance...voltage to the equipment...continuity test for shorts in RCA ...ect

 

[jmeif420]

I do have a dmm and tried testing the rca plugs just after I bought a new set and put in a new head unit and my dmm that I already have still read 0, I replaced the wiring from amp to speakers and the rest of the wires are secure and provide constant power to the amp. I took the sub out of the box and rewired that also

 

[jmeif420]

Also I just performed the 9volt battery test on the subwoofer and I got nothing from it, no movement or "pop". Could this be the cause of my problem a bad sub? The cone pushes down with a Lil resistance and no scratching noise and I also don't get a reading from my dmm either

 

[Pav26 10+ year member]

Also I just performed the 9volt battery test on the subwoofer and I got nothing from it, no movement or "pop". Could this be the cause of my problem a bad sub? The cone pushes down with a Lil resistance and no scratching noise and I also don't get a reading from my dmm either

Sounds like your sub is blown mate, no reading/response from the DMM and 9V test makes this 99% probable I'm afraid.

 

[jmeif420]

Also I just performed the 9volt battery test on the subwoofer and I got nothing from it, no movement or "pop". Could this be the cause of my problem a bad sub? The cone pushes down with a Lil resistance and no scratching noise and I also don't get a reading from my dmm either

 

[bgowdy 5,000+ posts]

Also I just performed the 9volt battery test on the subwoofer and I got nothing from it, no movement or "pop". Could this be the cause of my problem a bad sub? The cone pushes down with a Lil resistance and no scratching noise and I also don't get a reading from my dmm either

sounds like the sub is gone

 

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

blown sub if 9v battery isn't moving the sub...