dont get it
- Thread starter Kaltenberg
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KaeZoo
10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
You need a lot more basic information than can be easily included in one post. Try checking out www.bcae1.com.
Here's some groundwork:
A 2-channel amp is just that: it can take in two different input signals, and amplify them to two different outputs. So you can use it for a stereo signal, and get right and left channel outputs. That's good for full-range speakers, but not usually desirable in subwoofers. Most 2-channel amps can be "bridged", which means you combine the two channels into one, and get a lot more power output. Usually if you're connecting subwoofers to a 2-channel amp, you'd bridge it.
A mono amp just has one channel of output. Often the amp will have 2-channel inputs, but it will combine them into a single output. These amps are almost always used for subwoofers.
Amp and speaker power ratings are listed as "peak" and "RMS" ratings. You should always ignore peak ratings; there's no standard for how they're measured, so most manufacturers just pick an eye-catching number that will sell the equipment. When you're matching speaker and amplifier ratings, look only at the "RMS" ratings.
Power ratings should always include an impedance number: ie, 100watts RMS at 4 ohms. The impedance is always determined by what's hooked up to it: if you connect one of the subwoofers you listed, it's a 4-ohm load for the amp. If you have two of those subs, it may be wired as a 2-ohm or 8-ohm load. A dual voice coil sub is a single speaker that gets wired as if it were 2 speakers. So if you have a sub with "dual 4-ohm voice coils" then it can be wired as a 2-ohm or 8-ohm load. Depending on the rating of your amplifier and how many speakers you want to run, you may be better off with single or dual voice coil subs.
Some amplifiers can handle lower impedances than others. Lower impedance means more current flow, therefore more power output, therefore more strain on the amp. Usually (not always) a mono amp can handle a 2-ohm load, and a bridged 2-channel amp can handle a 4-ohm load. So if you have a 2-channel amp, and you want to run 2 subs, then you may want to pick dual voice-coil subs because you'd be able to wire it to 4-ohms at the amp. If you only wanted to run one subwoofer, then a single voice coil may be the better choice. You can hook up as many subs to an amplifier as you want, regardless of how many channels; but you can't go below the minimum impedance rating, and the power output will be split up between all your subs.
For the other specs:
IMPP composite cone woofer, Urethane surround, P5 Pentagonal Turbo Cone Geometry are all just the manufacturers' names for the materials, technology or ancient family recipe they use to build their speakers. You'll probably be no worse off if you just ignore it.
Bass boost is just what it sounds like. You turn the dial, it boosts the bass. Many amps have it; it's certainly not a necessary feature.
Illuminite circuit output is a Dual feature. Some Dual speakers have little LED lights built into them; the Dual amp just has an output to turn the lights on. It's a 2A output; I suppose you could use it to run a fan if you wanted, but otherwise it's a useless item.
A crossover is a feature that lets you cut out high frequencies and send just the bass to your sub. It's an important feature to have; luckily virtually every new amplifier includes one.
Here's some groundwork:
A 2-channel amp is just that: it can take in two different input signals, and amplify them to two different outputs. So you can use it for a stereo signal, and get right and left channel outputs. That's good for full-range speakers, but not usually desirable in subwoofers. Most 2-channel amps can be "bridged", which means you combine the two channels into one, and get a lot more power output. Usually if you're connecting subwoofers to a 2-channel amp, you'd bridge it.
A mono amp just has one channel of output. Often the amp will have 2-channel inputs, but it will combine them into a single output. These amps are almost always used for subwoofers.
Amp and speaker power ratings are listed as "peak" and "RMS" ratings. You should always ignore peak ratings; there's no standard for how they're measured, so most manufacturers just pick an eye-catching number that will sell the equipment. When you're matching speaker and amplifier ratings, look only at the "RMS" ratings.
Power ratings should always include an impedance number: ie, 100watts RMS at 4 ohms. The impedance is always determined by what's hooked up to it: if you connect one of the subwoofers you listed, it's a 4-ohm load for the amp. If you have two of those subs, it may be wired as a 2-ohm or 8-ohm load. A dual voice coil sub is a single speaker that gets wired as if it were 2 speakers. So if you have a sub with "dual 4-ohm voice coils" then it can be wired as a 2-ohm or 8-ohm load. Depending on the rating of your amplifier and how many speakers you want to run, you may be better off with single or dual voice coil subs.
Some amplifiers can handle lower impedances than others. Lower impedance means more current flow, therefore more power output, therefore more strain on the amp. Usually (not always) a mono amp can handle a 2-ohm load, and a bridged 2-channel amp can handle a 4-ohm load. So if you have a 2-channel amp, and you want to run 2 subs, then you may want to pick dual voice-coil subs because you'd be able to wire it to 4-ohms at the amp. If you only wanted to run one subwoofer, then a single voice coil may be the better choice. You can hook up as many subs to an amplifier as you want, regardless of how many channels; but you can't go below the minimum impedance rating, and the power output will be split up between all your subs.
For the other specs:
IMPP composite cone woofer, Urethane surround, P5 Pentagonal Turbo Cone Geometry are all just the manufacturers' names for the materials, technology or ancient family recipe they use to build their speakers. You'll probably be no worse off if you just ignore it.
Bass boost is just what it sounds like. You turn the dial, it boosts the bass. Many amps have it; it's certainly not a necessary feature.
Illuminite circuit output is a Dual feature. Some Dual speakers have little LED lights built into them; the Dual amp just has an output to turn the lights on. It's a 2A output; I suppose you could use it to run a fan if you wanted, but otherwise it's a useless item.
A crossover is a feature that lets you cut out high frequencies and send just the bass to your sub. It's an important feature to have; luckily virtually every new amplifier includes one.
- Thread Starter
- #4
ok thanks, if any of you happen 2 be on best buy looking for stuff and are really bored, if you see a good sub and amp combo let me know if you want/have the time im not asking for you to but if you want to thanks!!
knukonceptz
10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
Dont look at Best Buy for car audio, it usually isnt.....
Most of the bold print you mention is marketing they use to "talk" the speaker up
Most of the bold print you mention is marketing they use to "talk" the speaker up
- Thread Starter
- #7
Ok im looking for decks right now on onlinecarstereo.com, on one it syas 50 watt x 4 max power, does that mean it can push out 50 watts to each sterowithout an amp? or what does this mean? and does that mean its a 200 watt deck?
JimJ
5,000+ posts
Tangled Up in Blue
Ignore max power ratings.
That means that deck can only drive speakers continously (sp) with a fraction of that power - so it's always better to run an external amp than rely on head unit power //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
That means that deck can only drive speakers continously (sp) with a fraction of that power - so it's always better to run an external amp than rely on head unit power //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
no, usually they are about 13w. I wouldn't ever go by max power. RMS is key.
Here is a few questions to ask yourself:
a) how much do I want to spend?
b) Do I like uni-knob or no
c) Do I have an i-Pod and want the 'easy hookup feature'
a) how much do I want to spend?
b) Do I like uni-knob or no
c) Do I have an i-Pod and want the 'easy hookup feature'
I would argue that clean signal may be even less.
- Thread Starter
- #13
a) how much do I want to spend?
about $300, $350 max
b) Do I like uni-knob or no
whast uni-knob?
c) Do I have an i-Pod and want the 'easy hookup feature'
yes, and it would be nice
about $300, $350 max
b) Do I like uni-knob or no
whast uni-knob?
c) Do I have an i-Pod and want the 'easy hookup feature'
yes, and it would be nice
- Thread Starter
- #14
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=13736
500 watts Rms for $70 bucks? And will 500 watts do any good?
500 watts Rms for $70 bucks? And will 500 watts do any good?
Check out the pioner 680mp. Good deck, has the uni-knob, and has easy i-pod hookup feature (the face flips out to hook it up).
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