Does this sound like a legit upgrade package?

Murphy1979

CarAudio.com Recruit
Hello. I bought a 2017 Subaru Crosstrek, and am displeased with the stock stereo. My previous car was a 2010 Subaru Outback with a factory installed Harmon Kardan upgrade. It wasnt the best, but it was fine with me, and I'm trying to match or exceed the sound of that system.

I am not an audiophile and have next to no knowledge about stereos, so I asked a highly rated local installer and he recommended this upgrade package.

Does this sound like a good build?

" using Kicker door speakers and tweeters, Pioneer 5 channel amp, kicker 10" sub, Audio Control DQ-61 and installation is roughly $xxxx before tax. As long as you plan on retaining your stock radio, it will be the weakest component in your audio chain. The DQ-61 helps clean up the signal. Best option is to replace your radio, which would take the total to roughly $xxxx installed before tax"

After I asked him to explain the radio replacement...

"All factory options are retained, camera, steering wheel controls, usb/aux. Replace with 7" touchscreen Pioneer with Apple CarPlay and Android Auto, 13 band EQ, and internal audio controls to reproduce the best sound possible. Radio part number AVH2500NEX.
If equipped with XM, an additional part is required to that feature."
 
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Hello. I bought a 2017 Subaru Crosstrek, and am displeased with the stock stereo. My previous car was a 2010 Subaru Outback with a factory installed Harmon Kardan upgrade. It wasnt the best, but it was fine with me, and I'm trying to match or exceed the sound of that system.

I am not an audiophile and have next to no knowledge about stereos, so I asked a highly rated local installer and he recommended this upgrade package.

Does this sound like a good build?

" using Kicker door speakers and tweeters, Pioneer 5 channel amp, kicker 10" sub, Audio Control DQ-61 and installation is roughly $xxxx before tax. As long as you plan on retaining your stock radio, it will be the weakest component in your audio chain. The DQ-61 helps clean up the signal. Best option is to replace your radio, which would take the total to roughly $xxxx installed before tax"

After I asked him to explain the radio replacement...

"All factory options are retained, camera, steering wheel controls, usb/aux. Replace with 7" touchscreen Pioneer with Apple CarPlay and Android Auto, 13 band EQ, and internal audio controls to reproduce the best sound possible. Radio part number AVH2500NEX.
If equipped with XM, an additional part is required to that feature."

Skip that dq-61 and upgrade headunit. If I were buying a 7” double din and needed Apple CarPlay that would be what I would buy. If you don’t need the car play the 1500 model is the same deck and shaves a few bucks. Good choice overall though.

if you’re talking about the pioneer gmd9705 amp that’s a solid choice. Kicker speakers and subs, probably get you the upgrade you want but kinda meh in my option. Hopefully the price is right.
 
Are you allowed to talk about price on this forum? Hes asking 2K for parts and installation. He is really highly rated locally, the highest, and comes to your house for jobs. (I'll delete if this is inappropriate)
 
Yes you can post pricing here.

I do everything myself so hearing someone is going to pay $2000 for low end equipment makes me scream NO but that's just me. $2000 would get you a pretty decent setup if you install it yourself.
 
Are you allowed to talk about price on this forum? Hes asking 2K for parts and installation. He is really highly rated locally, the highest, and comes to your house for jobs. (I'll delete if this is inappropriate)
It all depends. If he is planning on budget model kickers or high end. I'm not a fan of kicker speakers, I have never heard a set that I though sounded great. Decent, maybe an upgrade, but heard better for less or more money.

You need to get the model numbers of which speakers and subwoofer, also ask what kind of box he is planning as well. Cheap premade box of a custom built box. All of that determines whether 2k is a good deal or horrible deal. Also does 2k include the radio?
 
"Good build" is VERY subjective around here. Some guys are running thousands upon thousands of dollars worth of equipment on active-crossovers and DSP's with high-end components etc etc.

Price seems a little high to me for a pioneer/kicker build but we can't really give you specific pricing information without knowing exactly what specific components (model numbers) are going into the build. Also are you going to replace the stock head unit? If not that completely changes other components you should buy. Are you at all interested in installing it yourself? For $2k you can put together a helluva system if you DIY.

Does your car have built in navigation? Do you want to keep the navigation? If not you could get the AVH2500NEX and build around that. (You could even do better than that depending on your goals) If you want to keep factory navigation then you need to look at other options.

I'd recommend going on crutchfield.com and seeing what components fit and what you want to spend. Kicker is considered a low to medium range consumer brand that many people are happy with but many here know there are better brands out there. What do you want to do?

Figure out specifically these components then we can help you more or give us a budget and tell us if you're willing to DIY.
Budget:
Factory Navigation? Y/N
HU: Factory or Aftermarket (IE:AVH2500NEX)
Mid Amp:
Front Speakers:
Rear Speakers:
Sub Amp:
Subwoofer/Box: (How much space are you willing to lose in the back/how loud do you want it to be?)

Almost everyone here is DIY and will point you in that direction because your money goes so much further that way.
 
Thanks for all this feedback so far.

I have asked what model Pioneer amp, which is indeed a gmd9705

I respect the DIY spirit, but everything with electronics I've ever messed with has not been successful, and today's tech seems so advanced to me its intimidating. Due to my career I dont have much time or energy to learn so the installation is labor of value to me.

The 2K would include the AVH2500NEX unit.

My car doesnot have built in navigation.

As far as budget, let me put it this way. I would like to pay the least possible to listen to music like metal and reggae at high volumes, feel a decent amount of bass and mid thud, and have a decent amount of clarity between instruments. Whatever that number is, I'll pay it because music in my car is a priority to me, but I am not an audiophile. I just want something decent.
 
Thanks for all this feedback so far.

I have asked what model Pioneer amp, which is indeed a gmd9705

I respect the DIY spirit, but everything with electronics I've ever messed with has not been successful, and today's tech seems so advanced to me its intimidating. Due to my career I dont have much time or energy to learn so the installation is labor of value to me.

The 2K would include the AVH2500NEX unit.

My car doesnot have built in navigation.

As far as budget, let me put it this way. I would like to pay the least possible to listen to music like metal and reggae at high volumes, feel a decent amount of bass and mid thud, and have a decent amount of clarity between instruments. Whatever that number is, I'll pay it because music in my car is a priority to me, but I am not an audiophile. I just want something decent.

Itemized estimate is a good start.

Problem with "Brands" is that hearing is subjective. What sounds good to one person may not sound good to someone else.

Your car also comes with 6 speakers - 2 Dash, 2 Front door and 2 rear door. Are you only replacing the door speakers and leaving the stock dash speakers? If you replace your HU you could run dash off of the HU and door speakers from the Amp.

Also AVH2500NEX and GMD9705 are only $500 of the cost.

My personal preference on "Mid-range" mids would be JBL/Alpine/Infinity. Spending ~$100 a pair. You might go down to your local Best Buy or down to a car audio place where you can listen to the differences.

If I were building a "Cookie Cutter" system for your car (using the HU/Amp you've listed) and having someone else install it, it would look something like this:

HU: Pioneer AVH-2500NEX ($300)
Dash Speakers: Sundown SA-2.75FR (Run off of HU) ($55)
Front Speakers: Infinity Primus PR6510CS ($90)
Rear Speakers: Infinity Primus PR6510CS ($90)
Mid/Sub Amp: Pioneer GM-D9705 ($200)
Subwoofer - Dayton Audio Ultimax UM12-22 at 2 Ohms ($200)
Sub Box - Have installer build you a custom 3/4 MDF box for the Dayton sub (if he's as good as the reviews say this should be a piece of cake for him)

You just spent $935 leaving $1065 for the custom box build and install. Should be plenty of headroom there for the installer.

There are plenty people here who will probably **** on this build but for your average "Non-Audiophile" no DSP, no active crossover etc etc. It would be more than enough for your average system and would blow most Best Buy installs away. (With proper installation and correct enclosure built for the Dayton)
 
Headunit is 320 with install kit
Amp is 200
Budget comps/active front 130$
Rear coaxials $70 (if you don’t go active)
Couple ofc amp kits $120

I’m at$840 without a sub, enclosure, and install and none of what you’re looking to do is guru level installer ****.

decent 500-600 rms sub can be had for $150 and a simple spec to sub built enclosure shouldnt be terribly pricey.

all that said $1000 doll hairs for basic level install seems like a lot. would that include a big 3 electrical upgrade, full acoustical treatment, etc.? I guess we’ll see when he itemizes it.

I don’t advise Going nickel and dime status on your installer but be dangerous enough to buy your own gear, fairly negotiate, get a good install, and not get $crewed
 
Ok, I asked the same question to the next most highly rated installer, which operates a store, and they recommended the build below, and ball parked 4K over the phone (not an official estimate).

Now it's worth noting here that the fellow I spoke with said that they use JL Audio equipment exclusively, claiming it's some of the best on the market. I have no way to know if this claim is true, or kinda true, or not true, or even if he was referring to quality or value.

I'm posting here more for build quality comparison to the first one and if there are any red flags. Since I have specific model ids in this case, I can research pricing myself.

Pioneer 4500 Head Unit (7", can clone your android phone, which is cool AF to me)
JLC 3 in the front
JLC C2 in the backdoors
900-5-A amp (I spaced writing what brand this is, not sure if it's also JL Audio)
HOW3 Box (again, not sure if JL Audio)

P.S. I will become open minded aboit the idea of DIY when I hear someone say 4K. I am just investigating what the market around here is like first.
 
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JL is good stuff but its way overpriced. You can get plenty of other great stuff that will sound better for less money.

and you wrote it down wrong - JL C3, JL C2. JL HD900/5

Not sure about HOW3 but again this is double the price purely for JL Audio. If you don't care about lighting money on fire and you're a "Name Brand" type of person. That's what JL is. People who build JL systems do it for bragging rights and less about building on a budget and more about how much money they have.
 
Itemized estimate is a good start.

Problem with "Brands" is that hearing is subjective. What sounds good to one person may not sound good to someone else.

Your car also comes with 6 speakers - 2 Dash, 2 Front door and 2 rear door. Are you only replacing the door speakers and leaving the stock dash speakers? If you replace your HU you could run dash off of the HU and door speakers from the Amp.

Also AVH2500NEX and GMD9705 are only $500 of the cost.

My personal preference on "Mid-range" mids would be JBL/Alpine/Infinity. Spending ~$100 a pair. You might go down to your local Best Buy or down to a car audio place where you can listen to the differences.

If I were building a "Cookie Cutter" system for your car (using the HU/Amp you've listed) and having someone else install it, it would look something like this:

HU: Pioneer AVH-2500NEX ($300)
Dash Speakers: Sundown SA-2.75FR (Run off of HU) ($55)
Front Speakers: Infinity Primus PR6510CS ($90)
Rear Speakers: Infinity Primus PR6510CS ($90)
Mid/Sub Amp: Pioneer GM-D9705 ($200)
Subwoofer - Dayton Audio Ultimax UM12-22 at 2 Ohms ($200)
Sub Box - Have installer build you a custom 3/4 MDF box for the Dayton sub (if he's as good as the reviews say this should be a piece of cake for him)

You just spent $935 leaving $1065 for the custom box build and install. Should be plenty of headroom there for the installer.

There are plenty people here who will probably **** on this build but for your average "Non-Audiophile" no DSP, no active crossover etc etc. It would be more than enough for your average system and would blow most Best Buy installs away. (With proper installation and correct enclosure built for the Dayton)
I wouldn't sh** on that. I like the dayton subs and Harmon products etc
Someone could go with the Dayton ho if a smaller box is needed. Both good lines from Dayton imo.
Not sure why anyone would use that particular audio control dsp. Guessing it's the cheapest 1 that shop has. That thing should be a lot cheaper than what it is and i still wouldn't want it.
 
Ok, I asked the same question to the next most highly rated installer, which operates a store, and they recommended the build below, and ball parked 4K over the phone (not an official estimate).

Now it's worth noting here that the fellow I spoke with said that they use JL Audio equipment exclusively, claiming it's some of the best on the market. I have no way to know if this claim is true, or kinda true, or not true, or even if he was referring to quality or value.

I'm posting here more for build quality comparison to the first one and if there are any red flags. Since I have specific model ids in this case, I can research pricing myself.

Pioneer 4500 Head Unit (7", can clone your android phone, which is cool AF to me)
JLC 3 in the front
JLC C2 in the backdoors
900-5-A amp (I spaced writing what brand this is, not sure if it's also JL Audio)
HOW3 Box (again, not sure if JL Audio)

P.S. I will become open minded aboit the idea of DIY when I hear someone say 4K. I am just investigating what the market around here is like first.
red flag, the only decent sounding JL is the c7 but they sound like 200 dollar speakers. 4k is definitely way overpriced.

Again, you'll want to piece together your own system, order it and bring it to the shop and have them install it if you want real results with quality gear.

For your listening goals with rock and good thuds, you want quality midrange drivers with A LOT of door treatments aka you'll want to buy a pack of stinger roadkill and have the shop deaden and seal up your doors, then deaden the plastic panel as well and use the remaining for the trunk/hatch/wheel wells.

I'm not telling you to be cheap, i'm telling you to be frugal, get the most results with the best bang for your buck with the setup designed right.

Speakers focus all your money on front speakers leave the rears stock on head unit power. Rears are a waste of time, money and power and they actually destroy the soundstage and imaging which is a huge part of sound quality. All that matters is the fronts.
I'd recommend morel tempos. These trash the JL c5s completely in every category imaginable and those cost 900.

As for subwoofers, a dayton HO 12 DVC would be musically accurate and give you the oomph you want. For rock music I actually prefer the sound of the HO over the ultimax, Better transition into midbass thuds and blends better than the ultimax which prefers deeper lower whale notes rather than musicality like the HO series. The HO also gets louder on less power. If you like a stupid amount of bass, you can do the dayton HO 15. Almost the equivalent of a JL w6 which costs 4x more. You can use a cheap 30 dollar premade sealed box from amazon to keep things simple. you can also buy this sub on amazon as well https://www.parts-express.com/dayto...Hhu86aG8KNWzcAFEUpiqqTAZ-2wBMvnxoC9RMQAvD_BwE

The pioneer gmd 9705 5 channel from amazon will be fine, instruct your installer specifically to bridge the amp to the components he's gonna say thats too much power for the speakers!!! or some basic ***** response from a brick and mortar shop. They dont understand that its to keep THD low, amp efficient and signal extremely clean when you try to get volume out of your system. Those morels also will have better cone control and overall clarity and sound quality with more power to them.

Get a knuknonceptz OFC 4 gauge wiring kit from amazon as well.

And this deadener kit, very necessary for making your door speakers sound good.

Get whatever head unit you want on amazon that has the features you want from crutchfield since they have better warranty, customer service along with providing the dash kits and every install accessory needed.

All the costs so far is about 950 plus the head unit maybe another 350. about 1400 ish after tax worth of QUALITY gear. The install plus minor install accessories like extra rcas, speaker wire, terminals, quick disconnects, loom etc... shouldn't cost you any more than the 600 remaining but even if it comes out around 2500, it'll be vastly superior to the two options you mentioned earlier.
 
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Murphy1979

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