Does this look right??? 56k =(

rcnshoe
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See if the wiring looks right... Any thoughts thanks

wiring.jpg


 
I have never heard of running the negatives of your amps into a fuse box, just need a distribution into a common ground. I think 4 gauge turn on is overkill, probably just need like 18 without a distro box. Read the Big 3 thread, I think thats an awefull lot of power and alot of grounds you have. The capacitor should be closer to the amps positive.

 
I wanted fuse the ground because just in case + and - ever touched would protect my investment. I have some extra 4 awg so i thought about runing a relay for the power on sense my car does not have one at the cd player. I'm prob going to have to tap in the fuse box. Wan'ted to fuse that. I'll have about $3000+ dollars in amps so....

 
If your positive and negative at the amps power terminals touched, the fuses on the positive of the amps would blow. No point on fusing the negative, doesn't add any extra insurance. Put a relay off the acc wire on your radio (power to amps when key in accesory position before on), run a 12 or 14 gauge from battery to relay and from relay to your trunk, I think the most common relays are good for 15amps current so that can run remote turn on on four amplifiers plus neons, fans, ect. There is no point in 4 gauge unless you plan on something else, like fog lights or something....and you would need a lot bigger relay for that.

 
Oh yeah, before all these educated idiots tell you not to waste money on a capacitor because they do nothing, don't listen to them, they have a lower resistance than batteries do, and even though they hold much, much less power than a battery, its not the point when its only supposed to supply power for a fraction of a second until the batteries kick in and the alternator senses a voltage drop and regulates itself to send more current.

 
Oh yeah, you dont need to fuse the remote turn on inputs at the amplifiers. They have a certain resistance and shouldent draw anything more than an amp total. They wont get hurt. It's like a lightbulb, they get 120volts at the outlet, but dont need fuses because based on resistance, they only draw a certain nuber of watts. As long as 12volts goes in, doest matter if it comes strait from the battery.

 
X2... No need to fuse the negative wire. Using your frame as ground might not work so good with that many amps though...I don't know, you might be fine...anyone wanna chime in on this? Might wanna run a 1/0 neg from the battery to a distro block for the amp grounds.

 
X2... No need to fuse the negative wire. Using your frame as ground might not work so good with that many amps though...I don't know, you might be fine...anyone wanna chime in on this? Might wanna run a 1/0 neg from the battery to a distro block for the amp grounds.
Why would that be bad? As long as his wiring is up to par under the hood there should be absolutely no difference between a body ground and a direct battery ground, except money saved on wire.

As others have said, you have way too many fuses. You only need fuses on the positive wire, and the only ones you need are the ones close to the battery and after a distribution. Since you're using that fused distro in there you only need the two by the batteries and the two after the first distro, nothing else. You don't need fuses on your grounds, it's pointless, doesn't add protection...waste of money. Same thing with the fused remote wire. Also 4ga is way overkill for remote wire, most amps won't even support remote wire that large. The remote wire only needs to carry a signal strong enough to trip a relay, a single 18ga wire should be plenty for 4 amps or more. You don't technically need a distro block for it either, you can just daisy chain the amps together, or just strip all the wire ends and crimp them together since they don't need fuses.

 
Actually, putting a fuse on the remote turn on wire is a good idea. But you need to put the fuse close to the HU, not by the amps. If the wire ever grounds out (easy to do), you don't want to damage your HU. Use a .5 amp inline fuse.

 
Chassis ground is only good up to a certain level of power...like I said I doubt he's even close but I don't know the actual numbers which is why I asked for someone to chime in.

Why would that be bad? As long as his wiring is up to par under the hood there should be absolutely no difference between a body ground and a direct battery ground, except money saved on wire.
As others have said, you have way too many fuses. You only need fuses on the positive wire, and the only ones you need are the ones close to the battery and after a distribution. Since you're using that fused distro in there you only need the two by the batteries and the two after the first distro, nothing else. You don't need fuses on your grounds, it's pointless, doesn't add protection...waste of money. Same thing with the fused remote wire. Also 4ga is way overkill for remote wire, most amps won't even support remote wire that large. The remote wire only needs to carry a signal strong enough to trip a relay, a single 18ga wire should be plenty for 4 amps or more. You don't technically need a distro block for it either, you can just daisy chain the amps together, or just strip all the wire ends and crimp them together since they don't need fuses.
 
I didn't see a fuse on each end of the wires from alt to batt which is under hood I'm assuming. Cheap insurance IMO. Also the runs from front batt to rear batt should be fused at both ends.

 
I didn't see a fuse on each end of the wires from alt to batt which is under hood I'm assuming. Cheap insurance IMO. Also the runs from front batt to rear batt should be fused at both ends.
why would you put two fuses on one wire?

Yes they need to be fused after distribution (as close to the distro as possible), but not twice on a single run of wire if that's what you mean.

 
Actually, putting a fuse on the remote turn on wire is a good idea. But you need to put the fuse close to the HU, not by the amps. If the wire ever grounds out (easy to do), you don't want to damage your HU. Use a .5 amp inline fuse.
Good call!

 
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