Does anyone have TL evidence of Multiple Runs of Wire

the electricity is going to always follow the path of least resistance, so most of the time it would only be going through one wire anyways. However, in *extreme* cases of high amperage pull, the wire might get hot enough for the resistance to build and the electricity start taking the other wire. But if your wire is getting that hot, you should buy bigger, better wire, not a second run of the same.

 
the electricity is going to always follow the path of least resistance, so most of the time it would only be going through one wire anyways. However, in *extreme* cases of high amperage pull, the wire might get hot enough for the resistance to build and the electricity start taking the other wire. But if your wire is getting that hot, you should buy bigger, better wire, not a second run of the same.
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

Tell all the guys in dbdrag to get rid of their 10+ runs of 0 awg and replace it with one run of 7/0 awg because its better.

 
the electricity is going to always follow the path of least resistance, so most of the time it would only be going through one wire anyways. However, in *extreme* cases of high amperage pull, the wire might get hot enough for the resistance to build and the electricity start taking the other wire. But if your wire is getting that hot, you should buy bigger, better wire, not a second run of the same.
I would think the wire would share the load?

As soon as wire 1 had 1 amp pass through, it would no longer be the path of least resistance due to the minimal heat of that 1 amp.

Anyways, if running multiple runs isnt beneficial in some way what are the guys doing with 10+ runs in street A?

 
I would think the wire would share the load?As soon as wire 1 had 1 amp pass through, it would no longer be the path of least resistance due to the minimal heat of that 1 amp.

Anyways, if running multiple runs isnt beneficial in some way what are the guys doing with 10+ runs in street A?
They don't have a moderate current draw. A lot of those guys are pulling 600+ amps.

Also, they only have one battery and the car has to be off for testing. This is where the biggest difference will be compared to a regular street beater install.

Adding more wire reduces resistance. Less resistance=more power from their limited power source, aka the battery in the front of the car.

If you want evidence, there was a thread on termpro about it. One competitor kept track of his results when adding multiple runs of wire. Yes it does help, but eventually you do hit a point of diminishing returns where more wire doesn't help.

 
Well, it's useless unless you're running enough current for the resistance of the wire to cause a significant amount of voltage drop. Otherwise, none. By adding other runs, you decrease the overall current density of the conductor, lowering voltage drop as a result.

Here's a hint, if it's starting to get warm to the touch you've got enough of a voltage drop, which is dissipated as heat, to heat near a quarter inch x 15' of wire.

Assuming it's the setup in your sig, I'm going to just guess/example/assume 1500W.

(1500*1.1)/14.4=114.6A current draw, assuming 90% efficiency.

Solution:

1 conductor(s) per phase utilizing a 2/0 kcmil or equivalent Copper conductor(s) will limit the voltage drop to 2.58% or less when supplying 114 amps for 15 feet on a 14.4 volt system.

Information:

* 175 Amps Rated ampacity of selected conductor

* 0.1 Ohms Resistance (Ohms per 1000 feet)

* 0.043 Ohms Reactance (Ohms per 1000 feet)

* 0.43 volts maximum allowable voltage drop at 3%

* 0.37 Actual voltage drop loss at 2.58% for the circuit

* 0.9 Power Factor

Solution:

1 conductor(s) per phase utilizing a 4/0 kcmil or equivalent Copper conductor(s) will limit the voltage drop to 1.75% or less when supplying 114 amps for 15 feet on a 14.4 volt system.

Information:

* 230 Amps Rated ampacity of selected conductor

* 0.062 Ohms Resistance (Ohms per 1000 feet)

* 0.041 Ohms Reactance (Ohms per 1000 feet)

* 0.29 volts maximum allowable voltage drop at 2%

* 0.25 Actual voltage drop loss at 1.75% for the circuit

* 0.9 Power Factor

Solution:

1 conductor(s) per phase utilizing a 750 kcmil or equivalent Copper conductor(s) will limit the voltage drop to 0.8% or less when supplying 114 amps for 15 feet on a 14.4 volt system.

Information:

* 475 Amps Rated ampacity of selected conductor

* 0.019 Ohms Resistance (Ohms per 1000 feet)

* 0.038 Ohms Reactance (Ohms per 1000 feet)

* 0.12 volts maximum allowable voltage drop at .8%

* 0.12 Actual voltage drop loss at 0.8% for the circuit

* 0.9 Power Factor

1/0 has 106 kcmil

2/0 has 133 kcmil

3/0 has 168 kcmil

4/0 has 212 kcmil

Make runs of wire until you get your desired voltage drop percentage. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Ok thanks for all the help guys, i am picking up an aq2200 or equivelant and was just wondering if it would make a difference if I ran 2 runs of 1/0.

 
I think Tommy said it best when comparing DB drag guys having to get most out their front batts as possible being as their car is off.

I wish he would have found that thread on Termpro haha, I'd like to read it.

That being said, I still only have 1 single 4ga run from front batt to 2 back batts.

 
I noticed a diference when I added the second run. My voltage was almost the same, from front and back, but I also added ground runs wich made a huge diference too. I think the ground runs helped a lot. In total I have 3 ground runs of 1/0 and 2 runs of power.

ps, im runnin a stetsom 7kd @ 1 ohm.

 
Did no one get the point of the long post? xD

I use 3 runs of 4/0 for 16' (636kcmil) power and 2 for ground (1.5' run). Big three using 4/0 as well, on 2 VFL 400.1s, with two huge batteries in back with 3 runs of 4/0 to the amps. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif I rely on back batteries, front battery is factory.

 
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