Did Big 3, and 200 amp alt still dimms like crazy!!!!

I have a 220 amp from Iraggi and a sp1700 and big three in 1/0 and i can drop volts like none other. i have a jl 1000/1 and its drawing massive current at 170 amps. so i would say get a second battery in the back so that you have a larger reserve of time that your battery can take before the amp starts to take over with amps draw.

 
I'm just running one ed 9.1 thats rated at 1200x1 at 1 ohm, the guy said that it he tested it and at idle its putting out like 150 amps and at 2000 grand its putting out 200 amps. Even though I never seen it for myself is there away you can check yourself with a dmm or something? Sadly I know somebody who had his alternator rebuilt 3 times buy this guy because the alternator kept going out. I asked the guy about it and he said its because the alternator is not built to handle the extra heat produced by the extra amperage and thats why rewound alterantors tend to go out but if you only turn it up for short periods of time you should be fine. Thats what he said he also said its no different then the HO aftermarket alternators except the overheating factor. I guess I wonder if he knows what hes talking about. The lights dim both at idle and running and I know the Big 3 has made a difference, because the battery gauge sits hire then what it used to but it just goes down alot faster when it hits a bass note. This sucks I never had this problem before and I had two kickers L7 running to a rockford 1000bd in my old car. So nobody thinks its clipping does that sound correct the way I set it up? So I will start with checking the amperage on the alt, then the discharge of the battery I think I might have a bad battery because when ever I turn on the turning signals the battery gauge bounces back and forth quite a bit. Did both before and after the rewound. You guys have been great thanks I appreciate the feedback. How do you check that stuff?

 
you have to take your alt out and have it tested at your local shop. they can tell you what its at. have you battery tested too at your local auto parts store.

 
lol wow almost everyone beat me to it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gifalso i noticed you said your running the nine.1 to A premier spl sub? im guessing its a dual 2 ohm sub if it is then i gotta tell ya 1200w rms is a bit to much if the sub is a TS-W3002SPL the rating rms on it is 1000w rms

****EDITED***
you are a retard my friend

 
Well I went to the guy who rewound my alternator and told him about whats going on so he threw an amperage meter on it while I had it turned up as loud as I usually play it. It did not exceed 150 amps so I know I have a big enough alt so its all in the battery. I told him that everybody prefers a yellow top battery over a cap, because people believe the cap hurts the electrical system and so forth. He didn't believe that was nessacarily true because he said most alternators have a 1.5 farad cap in them so he said he wouldn't see the difference in having another one outside the alt. Either way he said they would both help but neither would totally elimnate the problem. Any other suggestions or advice, when do you usually need to get a cap if everything else fails? Also I do realize that this amp is over powering the sub by probably half again the power. Because I read that these amps are capable of 1500 watts rms at 14 volts is this true? I was planning on getting another sub but in order to do so it would bring the independance down to .5 ohms, can ed 9.1 handle that ohm load stable? thanks for all the help guys

 
Also I do realize that this amp is over powering the sub by probably half again the power. Because I read that these amps are capable of 1500 watts rms at 14 volts is this true? I was planning on getting another sub but in order to do so it would bring the independance down to .5 ohms, can ed 9.1 handle that ohm load stable? thanks for all the help guys
as long as your amp isnt clipping you should be fine with the 1 sub.

 
i have found that if you have a bad draw/dimming problem a cap does help because it can charge and discharge quickly so it will help the transition from the time the sub hits to the alt knowing that there is a draw and the alt putting out the needed amps. so it makes your music sounds smoother. IMO

 
There is a transition period between low current output and high current output on an alt. Your eye is very sensitive to light and it takes less that 1/20th of a second flicker for you to notice the dimming. The voltage regulator must note a drop in voltage and correct it, this doesn't happen instantly and thus the dimming. This is one of the rare ocassions where a cap will actually do something productive. A cap can ease the transition and minimize the appearance of the dimming. It will be a very slight dimming ,barely perceptible, and then by then the alt will have kicked in. Note: there will not be an audible difference, but it will reduce the noticable effects of dimming lights.

As far as the whole belt thing goes, without changing the size of the pully on the alt, you haven't done anything by just going with a smaller belt. You have to adjust the ratio between the driving and driven pulleys to have any effect. You have to change the size of one or the other.

 
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