Deaf Bonce db418 or PSI Platform 4 18???

4 12s will do nicely in 8cubes common chamber box. Single 18" will do nicely in 8cubes. But the only reason we are talking about 4 12s > 1 18 is because the OP is taking about going from 4 12s to 1 18.
I must have missed where he mentioned previously having 4 12's?

I thought he was just deciding which 18 to get

I like my 8 12 setup way better than my custom shd/team sundown 18s. Cone area wins. How are you limited on space? In put 2 21"s in a focus coupe... You can't say you have limited space lol
I've got 3 21's right now, but want to do a 4th order. Space is going to be tight to say the least.

So the next time I switch subs, I should do a bunch of 12's?? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

A larger quantity of subs on the same power have lower power compression and likely will have more motor force per cone area. The higher motor force brings down QES so you can maybe save a bit of volume on the enclosure for the same cone area if you're looking for a consistent output through a fairly large bandwidth (assuming the other parameters and your cars cabin gain line up for the target application as well). On the down side you have more cancellation issues, a larger probability of having a sub fail, and the fact its more a PITA to track down potential quirky issues with the enclosure deign.
I personally prefer single or dual setups since I don't ever run gobs and gobs of power. In the end theory and math only goes so far (especially for car audio!) and real world results will inevitably not line up. No matter your end goal in car audio, it's going to take experience, experimentation, and occasionally a small amount of luck to see those goals through.

OP no chance for dual 15 setup?
Interesting

With $1000 budget and 8-9 cu to work with I would run 2 quality 15's. I'd look at running a little more power than 3k though. With a solid electrical a good 5k at .5ohm would be great for daily or run a Brazilian 8k at rated ohm load. Look into the pierce audio 2k series 15's 4 layer 4in coil upgradable to 8 layer of you want to run more power than a 5k.

I think you'd be better off with a beefy 3" coil sub than 4" coil sub on that power. A Sundown Nightshade wold do nicely imo

 
I must have missed where he mentioned previously having 4 12's?
I thought he was just deciding which 18 to get

I've got 3 21's right now, but want to do a 4th order. Space is going to be tight to say the least.

So the next time I switch subs, I should do a bunch of 12's?? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

Interesting

I think you'd be better off with a beefy 3" coil sub than 4" coil sub on that power. A Sundown Nightshade wold do nicely imo
The reason a 3" coil is more efficient than a 4" is due to weight. A 3" 8layer coil with a ww of 3" is probably very similar in weight if not heavier than a 4" 4 layer with a ww of 2.5". The 4" coil still has a 30% larger surface to keep it cool. Id still take the 4" in most cases. If upgrading to an 8layer 4" you would definitely want more power. A 3" 4layer would be perfect for 1500w each sub something like the soundrive sub that is crazy cheap for what you get.

 
Its a 1979 Bonneville. I just like the idea of one 18inch woofer being able to be a little better than x4 12s. All the math ive done, and WInisd comparisons, any of the 18s ive considered are louder than my current four 12's. I am not really going for loud though, i am very very content with my current setups performance. All i want, is slightly higher performance in one "Compact" package, as compact as an 18 could get. I Have 12cubes of space, my four 12s are in a fourth order bandpass enclosure, i just want 8-9 cubes 18 regular ported, nothing fancy and out performing my current setup. Id also rather have all my money tied up into one woofer than multiples. I know the Soundstream T1.6000DL isnt the best, its cheap, but its cheap and works. Later il get a better amp.

 
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Hello. We are large supplier of Alphard Sound products.

I would normally congratulate you for choosing to go for the beast of ground pounding subs on the market today but the amplifier you have, would be best suited for the DB183-

The 1200wrms 3" coil 18.

Your current amplifier is only 2,500wrms and is no where close to what the DB4 line wants to see.

Now, we have Alphard amplifiers here but they are not Soundstream cheap. Stepping up to good equipment takes good cost to support it.

Soundstream's market area is totally in a different field than AST's DB line.

If you need any specifications of the Deaf Bonce 18 or anything else Alphard, let me know.

 
I remember when a punch 45 on two savard pro series used to jam. I feel like 2000 is a ton for a speaker but the drivers now are so much better with FEA and dumax testing it's crazy what they can do regardless of power.

 
A larger quantity of subs on the same power have lower power compression and likely will have more motor force per cone area. The higher motor force brings down QES so you can maybe save a bit of volume on the enclosure for the same cone area if you're looking for a consistent output through a fairly large bandwidth (assuming the other parameters and your cars cabin gain line up for the target application as well). On the down side you have more cancellation issues, a larger probability of having a sub fail, and the fact its more a PITA to track down potential quirky issues with the enclosure deign.
I personally prefer single or dual setups since I don't ever run gobs and gobs of power. In the end theory and math only goes so far (especially for car audio!) and real world results will inevitably not line up. No matter your end goal in car audio, it's going to take experience, experimentation, and occasionally a small amount of luck to see those goals through.

OP no chance for dual 15 setup?
Your starting to remind me of a friend who I kind of grew up with. He was older but he was intelligent and technical like you. Dude always had the baddest systems. I'd swear from you structure you where him.

He was doing 156 sealed up on the dash with 6 of the original Elemental designs e 12s back when they were built by DD nothing was f****** brutal you could read any street signs at all it was so vision blurring want to see you picked around 52 Hertz and I was only two JBL 1200 Point ones s*** was f****** loud I wish I could have it would double the power.

And trust me I've heard systems that metered louder but that thing flaming slammed..

 
I dont have the amp yet, i can buy a different amp. how about the Precision Power ICE7000.1D? I have the black ice 5000 currently, and its doing 2800rms and its rated for 2500, only slightly warm after 30mins of play.

 
That amp is only 2,300w?

Why are you looking at almost the worst amplifiers to choose from based on the subwoofers you are looking at?

I'd understand if you were looking at entry level or one line up from entry level subwoofers but not the level the context of this thread is in.

 
look around for a banda 7k if you want an actual 7k that wont kill your bank and electrical

i said it before and ill say it again, dont spend that much money on a sub when your amp cant put out what you need. on top of that, when you start getting to 4-5 kw you'll need about 1k in electrical upgrades

 
Mutli meter says its doing 2800 and sonic electronics have shown that precision power does more than they are rated. I understand, why a ****** amp with a nice woofer. its simple, it will have to do until i get more money.

 
Mutli meter says its doing 2800 and sonic electronics have shown that precision power does more than they are rated. I understand, why a ****** amp with a nice woofer. its simple, it will have to do until i get more money.
You can't tell what anything is doing with just a multimeter.

They shown one doing rated. The BI amps are power acustik clones

 
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