Cross The Bamboo!

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

so when you said you were going to build crossovers is but you havnt attempted anything like this before, is it safe for me to assume that your going to but together a generic 3 way crossover, with cheap parts from radioshack or similar?

not exactly. my midbass will be active on my amp's rear channels. and the xover will be pieced together through the help of parts express and or madisound

 

---------- Post added at 05:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:20 PM ----------

 

This is exactly why the high end headunit market has gone down hill. People are more interested in watching videos of dolphin screen animations than actually setting up a system right.

fvck a dolphin

 

[dumple 5,000+ posts]

so your doing this because you dont have enough channels of amplification

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

so your doing this because you dont have enough channels of amplification

that....and i dont have a crossover that goes high enough for a tweeter. my boston xover on my amp goes to 350hz at highest.

so to do an active 3 way meant me buying a new amp and Hu or crossover

 

[dumple 5,000+ posts]

well yes, it would involve you getting a headunit that would be able to do all crossovers and slopes, and eqing built into one unit... SMART! and like whitedragon said a good 2 way would be perfectly suitable until you could afford to get a better or another amplifier...

 

[wenn_du_weinst 10+ year member]

you do know that those midrange speakers play just as high as most tweeters right?

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

well yes, it would involve you getting a headunit that would be able to do all crossovers and slopes, and eqing built into one unit... SMART! and like whitedragon said a good 2 way would be perfectly suitable until you could afford to get a better or another amplifier...

I'm already saving for an ms8 and unless my amp goes out i have no interest in gettin an active one to be honest. Same with my HU

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

you do know that those midrange speakers play just as high as most tweeters right?

Yupp, gives me more options for xovers

 

[whitedragon551 5,000+ posts]

GO pick up the mint CD7000 on DIYMA for $210 shipped.

 

[VWBobby 10+ year member]

There's 2 ways you can go about this. Either run active like the guys are suggesting, or buy some crossovers that have similar points to where you're wanting.

The pre-built crossovers will be just as good as anything you can DIY, even the kits from PE or Madisound. I even used some Audiopipe 3-way xovers (of all things!) and they have fairly good components, comparable to what a mid-range passive xover would have (metal film caps, air core copper inductors). It takes a lot of testing, tuning, plotting and rebuilding to design a perfect passive crossover. Active lets you tune to any freq for any driver.

Another option would be to keep your current HU and go with a processor or high quality 6-channel that's active capable. I much rather tune from the HU and run a dedicated amp(s). One advantage to using an active amp and keeping your current HU is keeping a very clean signal path with no extra processors or connections. The guys over are DIYMA are more into building custom 3-way setups than people here... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[wenn_du_weinst 10+ year member]

it doesn't give you more options, it makes tweeters pointless.

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

There's 2 ways you can go about this. Either run active like the guys are suggesting, or buy some crossovers that have similar points to where you're wanting. The pre-built crossovers will be just as good as anything you can DIY, even the kits from PE or Madisound. I even used some Audiopipe 3-way xovers (of all things!) and they have fairly good components, comparable to what a mid-range passive xover would have (metal film caps, air core copper inductors). It takes a lot of testing, tuning, plotting and rebuilding to design a perfect passive crossover. Active lets you tune to any freq for any driver.

Another option would be to keep your current HU and go with a processor or high quality 6-channel that's active capable. I much rather tune from the HU and run a dedicated amp(s). One advantage to using an active amp and keeping your current HU is keeping a very clean signal path with no extra processors or connections. The guys over are DIYMA are more into building custom 3-way setups than people here... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

exactly, i def havent ruled out the premade pe and madi xovers. I'm still weighin options on those.

I understand what they are saying about active maybe being easier but its not the route i've chosen for a few reasons

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

GO pick up the mint CD7000 on DIYMA for $210 shipped.

let me break this down.

my plans for this setup are:

a 3 way front stage (possibly rear fill)

processing w/ time align and such on all drivers.

while still being able to maintain the entertainment of the DVD player in my dash (which we use for the ps3s n 360s on occasion)

and a 30band EQ

If i get that HU, I'll have 7 bands of eq at most, only be able to do active 2 way front stage. and not much as far as processing

My plan is to get the JBL ms-8, and use that. with it, I can run active 3 way, get all my time alignment, as well as, my 30 band EQ while still keeping my same HU and amp (but simply adding a small 2 channel)

That said, if I'm getting a processor later down the road, it makes no sense to go buy another HU losing features I like ("dolphins" in your words) and have that new HU still not do all of the things I need it do. Just doesnt make sense to me no matter how you chalk it up. Once i get the Ms8 I'll consider active.

 

---------- Post added at 12:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:00 PM ----------

 

it doesn't give you more options, it makes tweeters pointless.

I imagine off axis, there will be a roll off high in the freq response. then there's beaming to account for.....

 

[VWBobby 10+ year member]

I'm not sure how your system is designed, but the best placement for most installs is:

1) Sub-mid bass in kicks on access to the listener if possible (some people say it doesn't matter, I say BS). Usually cross at 500hz or below, usually ~325hz. I have my 8's LPF at 80 or 500 depending on type of music.

2) Mid-full range pointed straight across to the other door panel, off axis (less beaming). Xover point usually blends with mid-bass and cuts off around 3Khz, 6 or 12db slope.

3) Tweeter in a pillar or front dash. Some people prefer off axis and reflecting sound off panels to deaden harsh sound. Depends on personal preference.

 

[wenn_du_weinst 10+ year member]

assuming is something you never do in car audio.

 

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

Check your grounds make sure you have a good solid body or chasis ground never trust factory grounds because there is no telling what they may have used as a grounding point....