Cross The Bamboo!

Why So Cereal?
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Invisible Cereal
Just bought a set of Tang Band Bamboo 4" full range drivers (W4 1320SJ)

Plan on using em as mids in a 3 way front stage. What xover point will be best for a balance of imaging and control of beaming, 3.5khz or 4.5kz? the tweeter will not be near the mid, it will be somewhere on my pillar or on my dash.

vehicle is scion tc and mid will probably be in either door or kicks. off axis either way.

The driver can play up to 22khz and beyond

 
i was thinkin that. I think im gonna try the higher xover first and if I dont like it, drop down lower.
At this point your wasting your money. I saw a WTB thread where you had $190 to spend. Spend $150-$175 of that on an Active capable HU and then proceed. You can get a Clarion 785USB for somewhere around $150 in mint condition. Maybe even an Eclipse CD7000 if your lucky.

 
At this point your wasting your money. I saw a WTB thread where you had $190 to spend. Spend $150-$175 of that on an Active capable HU and then proceed. You can get a Clarion 785USB for somewhere around $150 in mint condition. Maybe even an Eclipse CD7000 if your lucky.
i went all through that option and I just dont see myself changing Hu's unless it can go active and I can keep my dvd capabilities. Plus wont I still need a separate amp channel for each driver? Which would require 6 amp channels....so thats another amp too, unless i go back with a 2 way. But my whole purpose in doing all of this was to try my hand at a 3 way setup.

 
i went all through that option and I just dont see myself changing Hu's unless it can go active and I can keep my dvd capabilities. Plus wont I still need a separate amp channel for each driver? Which would require 6 amp channels....so thats another amp too, unless i go back with a 2 way. But my whole purpose in doing all of this was to try my hand at a 3 way setup.
A cobbled together 3 way is worse than a low end 2 way setup no matter how you chalk it up.

 
A cobbled together 3 way is worse than a low end 2 way setup no matter how you chalk it up.
i wouldnt exactly say its cobbled together. I did extensive research on each driver before i bought it. Still researching the passive xovers and talked to a number of pe techs and other people who've built passives about what i'm trying to do and its looking like i can make it work pretty nicely (definitely taking more work and research than i thought though) If the passive idea fails, i'll atleast still have the drivers and can look into going fully active. Worst case scenario, I lose about $50 on the xovers.

 
i dont see the point of doing this unless you can run active, you prolly wont like it, buy an active capable headunit and save your self money and time and heartache

 
i dont really see the huge advantage of active over passive besides being able to tune on the go. If one can build a passive xover to filter the frequencies the same as another is doing with his HU/ amp, how is one better than the other? One just requires more effort and time. In the end its still raw drivers, crossed at certain frequencies. Same concept.

 
i dont really see the huge advantage of active over passive besides being able to tune on the go. If one can build a passive xover to filter the frequencies the same as another is doing with his HU/ amp, how is one better than the other? One just requires more effort and time. In the end its still raw drivers, crossed at certain frequencies. Same concept.
All this headache youve gone through and research is time you could have spent installing. With an active you dont need to worry about ohm loads affecting this driver, and how this driver will affect that driver based on this, that and the other thing. You can install and set your crossovers way easier.

 
All this headache youve gone through and research is time you could have spent installing. With an active you dont need to worry about ohm loads affecting this driver, and how this driver will affect that driver based on this, that and the other thing. You can install and set your crossovers way easier.
yea, i knew all of that going in. But I just looked at it like this: im not willing to trade my HU or my amp, and I'm always up to learn something new esp when audio or physics are involved, so I bit the bullet and decided I'd put in the work and time to try building my own passives.

I completely understand what yall are saying though about it being alot easier just going active though and for someone starting from scratch I'd NEVER send them down this path unless they absolutely wanted to lol.

 
yea, i knew all of that going in. But I just looked at it like this: im not willing to trade my HU or my amp, and I'm always up to learn something new esp when audio or physics are involved, so I bit the bullet and decided I'd put in the work and time to try building my own passives.
I completely understand what yall are saying though about it being alot easier just going active though and for someone starting from scratch I'd NEVER send them down this path unless they absolutely wanted to lol.
This is exactly why the high end headunit market has gone down hill. People are more interested in watching videos of dolphin screen animations than actually setting up a system right.

 
so when you said you were going to build crossovers is but you havnt attempted anything like this before, is it safe for me to assume that your going to but together a generic 3 way crossover, with cheap parts from radioshack or similar?

 
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Why So Cereal?

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