creating "flush" plexy windows

pwnt by pat
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How does one make a flush looking plexy window while having some kind of finish on the material. I would think a rabbeting bit around the frame, but then you would see the enclosure material below it. Is that portion of the plexi typically painted or covered ?

 
Do the rabbet on the backside of the wood; the part that isnt shown and wrap teh top and fold it under the lip. Then silicone/seal/adhese the plexi into place...
Yes but then the window isn't flush.

Yeah, I think painting is the only way.

 
Yes but then the window isn't flush.
Yeah, I think painting is the only way.
Ahh, I see what your getting at now...not flush inside the wood but flush with the entire piece itself. I did the method I described, then rounded over the cutout and it came out quite nice...quite easy as well.

 
Unless i am misunderstanding your question, what about rabbeting BOTH the wood on the back and the glass on the front. You'll need a little thicker glass though.

See crappy paint drawing.

 
3/4" mdf with 3/4" plexi. Not a bad idea, Would cost a little for that thick *** plexi, and i have never seen it taken to a router but it seems like it work if you are careful.

 
I've got some surprises coming based on this subject. My amps will be covered with plexi and this will be my best work yet. I'll get pics up soon once it's near done. The install is going in the back of my 97 4 dr Tahoe. As for those wanting to make a piece of plexi flushmounted look with the MDF, it's quite simple. First take your measurements of where you want the plexi. Then have your router to the depth that matches the thickness of the plexi. The end result if you don't rush it should be excellent. On my install, the plexi is gonna be removeable. If something happens the amps or whatever, I wanna be able to have access to it instead of having the plexi in place forever. Anyway, enough jiber jabering...

 
It's much easier to make the entire side that you want to view throught PLEXI... then make beauty panels around it... to have a "viewing window".

Like so...

chargertrunk2.jpg


chargertrunk1.jpg


nG

 
plexi cracks and chips when routered....
use Lexan..it drills with a regular wood bit and can be cut/routered

easily and it is stronger than plexi...it is really crystal clear stuff too
If you have a sharp bit, the feed rate correct, and the spindle speed right, acrylic is really easy to work with. Much easier than polycarbonate. Much less brittle and scratches can be buffed out, too.

Rather than the rabbeting of both sides which will leave a hard corner and a weak piece, try using a bevel instead.

 
plexi cracks and chips when routered....
use Lexan..it drills with a regular wood bit and can be cut/routered

easily and it is stronger than plexi...it is really crystal clear stuff too

where do you even get 3/4in lexan??? I contacted GE Polymers a few months ago about getting 3/4in acryllic and they said they only make plexiglass that thick. the thickest lexan i've ever seen or dealt with is 5/8. I'm sure the lexan is higher than giraffe pu$$y, hell a full 8x4 sheet of plexi in 3/4 is $375 here in new orleans, even a 2x4 sheet is $100.

 
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