Country/Bluegrass/Acoustic music listener.........need advice

bgrass
10+ year member

Junior Member
I own a 1996 Chevy Regualr Cab Pickup. I am looking to put a set of components in for the front stage and then put a sub in the back. With the kind of music I listen to in mind, here is what I think I am going to go with. Please give me your thoughts.

Single 10" or 12" Kicker CVT 800 watt 4 ohm

ID CXT65CS 6.5 Components

I want a punchy bass, and something that doesn't take up too much space, so I thought the Kicker CVT's were the way to go. I am just not sure about the ID's. I know they are a wonderful product, but will they give me what I am looking for in my musical taste department?

 
ok, well I see what kind of music everybody listens to on here.
Most of the car stereo guys are into rap, hip hop or whatever else has prodigous levels of bass.

What you should get for mids/tweets is greatly dependent on how much money you have to spend on it.

 
New to car audio.com and discussions in general on this subject. I can't believe with all the knowledge of this site no one can answer the OP's question.

I listen to wide range of music on my old '92 Nissan Sentra setup including Propellerheads to some bluegrass, favorites include Pike County Breakdown, Old Salty Dog Blues and Flint Hill Special.

From my own listening experience on my system this style of music's dynamic range seems limited according to when and how it was recorded which will affect how much bass your 6.5's will be required to play without creating a hole in the soundstage if using a crossover network or bass blockers between component speakers and sub.

What this means is your 6.5's are going to be playing a large portion of the bass if listening to old studio recordings as opposed to more current live and some modern studio recordings. What I've found is older studio recordings seem to shift the pitch of like say a kick bass up into the upper 80-100hz registers out of the range of most LPF-ed subs. If you try to crank this up it might clip on the 6.5's.

I'm hearing this right now on my system playing a modern funk/blues group Greyboy Allstar's-"What Ever Happened to Television" CD. My Polk low end rated 50hz 5x7's installed on the back dash on a custom baffle board are playing the kick bass and some upper notes of the bass guitar even setting my Alpine amp's HPF at 80hz@18db per octave. Very little is being played by the subs in my trunk on most of the songs on the CD.

So I applied 150hz bass blockers and turned off the Alpine's 80hz HPF which quieted the bass guitar and bass drum noticeably to where I could increase the volume and increase the gain on the sub without distortion.

I might even turn off the LPF on the subs to see how much lower mids they can play.

Your setup may be different from mine in regards to the amount of free air and dampening available on your vehicle which can greatly affect the way bass is played on each speaker component. I just offered my experience as something to consider.

IOW your mileage may vary.

 
New to car audio.com and discussions in general on this subject. I can't believe with all the knowledge of this site no one can answer the OP's question.
What the hell would you classify my earlier post as, exactly? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 
The OP posted this...

"With the kind of music I listen to in mind, here is what I think I am going to go with. Please give me your thoughts."

I must have misunderstood what he was asking. It sounds like he needs specific advice other than an alternative component driver as a solution.

But I'm sure your advice is just as thorough and helpful. And besides it is the thought that counts, right?

So, sorry for my misunderstanding and derogatory statement. I meant well.

 
The OP posted this...
"With the kind of music I listen to in mind, here is what I think I am going to go with. Please give me your thoughts."

I must have misunderstood what he was asking. It sounds like he needs specific advice other than an alternative component driver as a solution.

But I'm sure your advice is just as thorough and helpful. And besides it is the thought that counts, right?

So, sorry for my misunderstanding and derogatory statement. I meant well.
Yes, he posted he thinks he's going to go with those, and wanted some feedback, to which I said "Nice choice on the comps." and gave alternates to consider.

If he hasn't heard the ID comps, then it's probably a very good idea to get out and audition as many sets as possible to determine what sounds best to his own ears. After all, I can say set X is the best set I've ever heard, but might end up sounding like total crap to him. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
Yes, I agree. Where and how the components are installed will make the most expensive high quality speaker sound like crap as well.

There's also something I forgot to consider and that's the fact that he's in a truck cab. I'm not even sure he needs a sub for the type of music he'll be playing.

My dad drove around in a Chevy Silverado with a small extended cab listening to nothing but country music on the factory installed full range drivers in the corners. They had to be pretty good size because they were clearly having no problem playing non-distorted bass however with pretty muddy upper mids played at a comfortable volume. It didn't need to be played any louder because of the small space of the cab and the higher directional frequencies within that style of music.

I mean you crank up a twangy banjo and your ears will start to bleed especially in the cab of a truck.

 
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bgrass

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