Cooler radio

[Txluke]

I have a cooler radio that I take on toobing trips and cook-offs. It is a 40quart with a pair of Polk mm691's, a kac8405, and a 35ah agm battery. I am building a 5 gallon water cooler with a 10 in the lid. I will remove the spigot and replace with a speaker terminal. I will bridge the other 2 ch on the amp and run to a speaker terminal on the cooler. I was looking at Polk subs because they are marine grade. When I want some more bass I will just run the speaker wires from one to the other. I use an iPod direct to the amp. The main purpose of my rig is to make the bikini girls dance on the river. What is the best way to get the max volume out of this setup? Is there a better sub I should look into? Any other ideas to help out?

Click to read more...

 

[joselr3668 10+ year member]

I would find a way to attach some bazooka tubbies and be done with it you can point them and loud as hell

 

[Txluke]

Would baffles help? The speakers are back to back and I wonder if they fight for air. When I crack the lid I get a lot more bass. I was thinking about porting the cooler but that also opens me up-to the possibility of getting water in.

 

[Txluke]

I was thinking of going to a 60 quart cooler. Would the extra airspace help or hurt?

 

[Txluke]

Anyone have any ideas?

 

[Txluke]

My float is in 3 weeks. Any help here?

 

[Serpent710 10+ year member]

just get some wakeboard speakers if its on a boat.

 

[NIHL8ION]

Being that this is Not a car audio install, help will not be much around here... If it were me I'd TRY to just run the 6x9's @ 2.7 ohm stereo on 2 of the channels with the crossover set to off / full range or HPF set to your liking, and bridge the other 2 channels into a Polk MM1040D 10" marine grade sub with the coils wired in parallel @ 2 ohms on the other 2 channels with the crossover set to low pass. That sub only requires .66^ft. sealed so I would build a small 12" x 12" x 12" squared enclosure for it that you can either mount inside or make removable so you can just pull it out and connect the speaker lead & play away...

 

[Txluke]

Toobing here in Texas means floating down the river in an innertube. My cooler with speakers sits in another tube tied to mine. There is no boat. I am just trying to figure out if baffles would help because the 6x9's are in a small cooler, magnets facing each other about a foot apart. I don't know if they push against each other.

[video=youtube;-fcNQTjaA6k]

 

[Txluke]

Being that this is Not a car audio install, help will not be much around here... If it were me I'd TRY to just run the 6x9's @ 2.7 ohm stereo on 2 of the channels with the crossover set to off / full range or HPF set to your liking, and bridge the other 2 channels into a Polk MM1040D 10" marine grade sub with the coils wired in parallel @ 2 ohms on the other 2 channels with the crossover set to low pass. That sub only requires .66^ft. sealed so I would build a small 12" x 12" x 12" squared enclosure for it that you can either mount inside or make removable so you can just pull it out and connect the speaker lead & play away...

I don't think the amp I have will run 2ohms bridged. I guess it would work with a single 4ohm sub? This is what I want to do. The 5 gallon water jug is .66 cubic feet.

 

[NIHL8ION]

I don't think the amp I have will run 2ohms bridged. I guess it would work with a single 4ohm sub? This is what I want to do. The 5 gallon water jug is .66 cubic feet.

LOL That's pretty interesting //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif - I would try to use some sound deadener and line the inside of the cooler with it, also find a way to seal it up top where you are mounting the sub and where the terminal is so you don't have air leaks & you should be in business //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif & Yeah I wasn't thinking about that, sorry a 4 ohm sub would probably be your safest bet...