Components that can handle 400 rms?

Great to prioritize front stage but... Im not sure why people think starting out with some wattage rating requirement and making that your primary criteria guarentees you will have awesome sound. If your music is not mostly bass and components are more important to you than a sub, why would you start with a 1000 watt+substage and then build aroundit ? All you've really done is made it harder and more expensive for yourself to find a front stage setup that can keep up.

You will need something REALLY good to keep up with that sub if you're really sending it the power you say you are. A second set of comps would be a better bet than trying to forcefeed most sets 400 watts rms. Otherwise with the majority of sets you will be needing to dial your gain way back and they won't be seeing all the power anyway. This is why my substage is generally 300 watts or less. That's how I think. If it were most important to me it'd be 1000 watts or more but since I want everything to keep up with everything else it's an almost balanced 300/240 watts right now, with front stage going to an even 300 soon.

 
Great to prioritize front stage but... Im not sure why people think starting out with some wattage rating requirement and making that your primary criteria guarentees you will have awesome sound.
It's as if speaker wattage ratings actually have an effect on the sound quality. FWIW, I have +400wpc running into a speaker rated at 125. BFD. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
It's as if speaker wattage ratings actually have an effect on the sound quality. FWIW, I have +400wpc running into a speaker rated at 125. BFD. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
What speaker would this be?

 
I have read your post and know not to get in a verbal battle with you(Probably a 10th of your knowledge)with that being said i call bs that they are taking 400 real watts or do you mean 200 per side.
Ahh...I understand. It's +400 per channel, ie. per side. There's a Zapco 200.2 driving the tweeters and a two Zapco AG350s (configured as monoblocks) on the mids. You see, music is dynamic. It doesn't exist on a constant level. The power allows the system to play at any realistic volume without distortion, and to reproduce lighting-fast transient attacks without (audible) stress. It doesn't compress during dynamic peaks; the sound is effortless. Even though the system can be loud, it's not the sole intent. The power is there for sound quality, not to see how loud the speakers will play. I hope that makes sense. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Speaking of efficiency.. There is one brand in Spain.. Its called Beyma. They have speakers that are rated on 200 rms and have efficiency of 97 db.. 6.5 mids.. That sounds good in the numbers,but i dont really see anybody talking about them anywhere so.. Looks like they arent as good as the numbers say.
Well for one, they're PA speakers, they are ridiculously efficient. Two, they aren't the most practical to use, let me explain. They can handle power no problem, but the down fall with PA speakers of this size, is that most will fall flat on their face around 80hz, and most CA dwellers want mids to play below that.

The difference in PA is that you have basically unlimited space, so that 6.5 is probably used as a lower midrange driver playing form 200hz up to make 1-2khz, because there is no issue cramming 2 15" woofers to take up the lowend slack.

That isn't easily doable in the car audio realm. If you're ok with a mid only playing down to 70-80hz tops, then by all means put them in there, actually I'd lean towards something from B&C or 18Sound.

Anyways, about your original topic. i'm just curious but have you actually heard a front stage running that much power? I'm not being rude, this is a serious question. I run about 100 watts per door speaker and about 30 to each tweeter, and it can easily get loud enough to the point of it being uncomfortable.

You don't need that much power, trust me. Plus if you feel the sub is too loud, just turn the **** thing down, pretty simple, and free.

 
Curently i am running Alpine SPR 17S with Alpine PDX 2.150.. Thats 150rms per side..

My impressions are that its ok,but not what i wanted.

After that i was powering it with MB Quart RAA2400.. 200 rms per side and it did sound better,but hm..

I am satisfied with the kick,midrange isnt all that good,and the tweet is set on 0DB,but i still want it a bit louder //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

I know that is strange becouse most people dislike those tweets,but i do like my tweets louder more agressive.. I love those high tones //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Now i do have EQ on my HU,and until now i only pumped up the 5khz tone to +2,but i am kind of affraid the tweets will blow lol =)

And no,i didnt heard anything louder than i have now,but car audio isnt really popular in my country due to bad financial status.

The thing is that the comps are new,they dont have more than 20 minutes of play,so i guess they will sound better later on,now i am only thinking should i leave it on 150 rms,or should i power it with the MB..

They took the 200 rms quite fell,they LIKED IT hehe,but i dont know what will that amount of power do to their life.. I mean i dont listen to my music on max all the time,but from time to time i like to crank it up to the limit //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Uf i even bored myself out with this much talking ^^

 
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