Class AB or Class D?

[shizzzon 10+ year member]

That sounds like a difference in the freq response ripple.

Not all amps have same response.

nothing to do with topology in this sense.

 

[dsw1204]

I ran a gmd8604...100rms per @ 4ohm and it ran flawlessly and cool for a year. Nice amp for the money imo.

Is that a Pioneer GM-D8604 amp? Amazon says that is a Class FD amp. I don't know what a Class FD amp is. Can you tell me?

 

[dsw1204]

I've heard/read that more people says that the Class AB amp produces a better sound than the Class D amp. I have not heard anyone say that the Class D amp sounded better over the Class AB. I am an old school guy and SQ is my preference over features and over anything. I think I will look for a Class AB amp over a Class D amp, unless someone can tell me that the Class D will produce a better sound. I am leaning town a Rockford Fosgate amp unless someone can direct me otherwise.

 

[shizzzon 10+ year member]

Tuning presents a better sound, not topology.

Its funny how all these people claim to hear a difference but dont want $10000 of free money?

Strange isnt it?

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

I wouldn't touch a cheap class D full range. The only one I would ever use is ZED. I wouldn't touch rockford anyway but definitely not their lowest line.

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

I'll put my Leviathan against any other amp in the same price range.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

I'll put my Leviathan against any other amp in the same price range.

I would put my slash combo against that leviathan.

 

---------- Post added at 10:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:42 PM ----------

 

I'll put my Leviathan against any other amp in the same price range.

I would put my slash combo against that leviathan.

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

A/B Blind tests on amplifiers- Time to hear for myself - Page 9 - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum

Post #216

 

[CSCStang]

Is that a Pioneer GM-D8604 amp? Amazon says that is a Class FD amp. I don't know what a Class FD amp is. Can you tell me?

Yes Pioneer. They call it a full range class D, hence FD.

 

[globalminds_ent 10+ year member]

I like the sound of full range class d better. I had a power acoustik 1600.4 which is basically a ppi 900.4 and now I'm running a ppi 800.4 and to me the sound off the 900.4 is better. Crisp highs, very powerful, less fusing, and very small you can almost put it anywhere, just think about an amp the size of an external hard drive.

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

I think a lot of the negative opinions on FRD are hold-overs from the early years when it was a known fact they struggled to produce anything over a few hundred hz due to switching noise entering the output.

I switched from a Zed Audio Lanzar opti100.4 (bridged) to a Korean built Lanzar Opti4x400d also running bridged. The 4x400d is run w/low gain since it is capable of a lot more power than I need.

I have zero SQ issues. If anything I've liked the class D better than Zed's A/B although I was very happy w/it too.

ABX test results are interesting, predictable -- I've never seen or read any ACTUAL test data that supports the idea of amp sound quality outside of the obvious. Those tests are conclusive IMO, but there will always be those that say they hear it.

 

[PPI_GUY 10+ year member]

Why not just have the best of both worlds? Buy a class a/b amp for mids and highs and a class D to handle sub duty. Components (mids/highs) are more efficient and should require less wattage anyway so, just find a nice, quality class a/b amp for them and a strong, flexible class D for your sub(s) that is gonna require a lot more power.

Also, on a similar note, I've heard (although never personally experienced) that some class D amps can introduce noise into the signal chain because of their inherent high speed switching design. While this problem isn't common, it has certainly happened. Not sure how those that had the problem ultimately resolved the issue but, I do recall an Alpine PDX and even JL HD's creating these issues for a few users. Those are both quality brands so it may be something that comes down to individual vehicles and installs.

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

Why not just have the best of both worlds? Buy a class a/b amp for mids and highs and a class D to handle sub duty. Components (mids/highs) are more efficient and should require less wattage anyway so, just find a nice, quality class a/b amp for them and a strong, flexible class D for your sub(s) that is gonna require a lot more power. Also, on a similar note, I've heard (although never personally experienced) that some class D amps can introduce noise into the signal chain because of their inherent high speed switching design. While this problem isn't common, it has certainly happened. Not sure how those that had the problem ultimately resolved the issue but, I do recall an Alpine PDX and even JL HD's creating these issues for a few users. Those are both quality brands so it may be something that comes down to individual vehicles and installs.

The switching noise can wipe out AM radio reception if the amplifier is near the antenna cable. I haven't experienced that problem but I know it's happened to other shops. Full range Class D can be problem free even with lower cost brands. A lot of people are still skeptical; we all choose what to believe and no one is holding a gun to your head to try a Class D speaker amplifier.