Clamping my amp 2ND try!!! WHICH TONE MOST POWER?

[XORstatus 10+ year member]

put it in simplest terms i can for you:
as your sub plays different frequencies, the pressure that builds up on the cone increases/decreases... this creates more/less resistance on your coils. thats about as basic as i can get about it, without going into fluid dynamics, and other nerdy things... this is where the term "box rise" came from as well, as a free air sub wont have nearly as much variation in resistance, as an enclosed one... due to the pressures involved inside a box being much greater then free air....

I UNDERSTAND what you're saying.

Technically the impedance of the sub remains constant, however in reality the pressures built by the excursion of the enclosure and other assorted forces "INCREASE" the actual or perceived resistance.

Will this perceived resistance nuance altar the actual wattage (voltage or amperage) produced by the amp?

AGAIN not questioning your expertise, just trying to understand.

ALSO my port is thin, my enclosure is designed for more SQ than SPL, this will probabally substancially increase the box rise.

If im correct in that usage, box rise means other associated resistance aside form actual Impedance.

SEEEEEEE I MIGHT BE LEARNIGN!!!

 

[Imtjnotu 5,000+ posts]

do not measure at the cig lighter

take out a dmm and measure at the battery while its playing....those cig meters can be very inaccurate...

 

---------- Post added at 01:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:10 PM ----------

 

in reality if it ever dropped below 11 to 10 the amp should shut off and go into protect for a few

 

[XORstatus 10+ year member]

I will run the test again and supply the results.

HOW CAN I KEEP MY VOLTAGE UP?

 

[Imtjnotu 5,000+ posts]

more powerfull battery to start......bigger alternator....big 3

 

[XORstatus 10+ year member]

I have done the big 3, my battery is in my trunk so I ran two 2 gauge power wires to it.

My stock alt SHOULD have enough juice to push this baby AP 1.5k it only has a 100 A fuse. I was ALSO running 2 kicker amps with negligible problems one 750.1 with a 600.1 simultaneously.

I know the AP is less efficient but the other two had 150 A of fuses.

Which doesent state exactly what kind of current they pull but 50A is a big difference.

What kind of batteries should I look into, for my application?

 

[Imtjnotu 5,000+ posts]

what battery is in your trunk? and just 1? i kno that anything over 1000 rms shouldnt be ran off stock.

try upgrading ur stock battery and addint a second one

 

[XORstatus 10+ year member]

with just another regular battery?

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

with just another regular battery?

No, you want to get a deep cycle/audio battery. Starting batteries are not meant to be dischagred and charged up constantly and doing so with lower the life of the battery. The least expensive solution is a Costco (Kirkland) brand marine (boat) deep cycle, they run about $70, not sure if it varies in different areas of the country or includes a core charge. Sometimes West Marine will drop their house brand of deep cycles to $50-60. An audio battery is meant to discharge and recharge faster and the materials required for this are more expensive so they will cost significantly more. Get the highest amount of amp hours you can afford and make sure the cold cranking amps are at least what your oem battery is.

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

Can you all please stop using Resistance and Impedance interchangeably? It's annoying as hell...

Impedance = Resistance + Reactance. I know the automotive world is mostly DC which doesn't care about reactance but speakers use AC and have inductive/capacitive qualities which causes the impedance to change based on the signal frequency.

 

[XORstatus 10+ year member]

I have heard of people using optima red, yellow and blue tops, kinetic batteries, deep cycles and so on.

What are their differences?

How effective are they relative to each other?

What is the principle of multiple batteries, what scenario would require redundant batteries?

Is there a thread which explains this?

The setup that I currently have is minuscule compared to what I have previously had.

Given I know all things are NOT equal, different cars have different charging systems, regardless of this fact,

Previously I had a MEMPHIS mojo 2400D amp on a stock charging system. Given I had this amp in a land rover, which has a larger alt and probably a bigger battery, however I WAS DEFINITELY pulling way MORE AMPS.

Ive never hand so many problems with a charging system before, again the problems I'm currently having are not monumental, nonetheless they are problems.

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

Red top is a starting, yellow and blue top are deep cycle, blue is marine certified. Kinetic is an audio battery. They are all agm (absorbed glass mat). They are meant to charge and discharge quickly, the audio batteries (kinetic etc) arent meant to do it faster and hold and discharge more.

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

Is there a thread which explains this?

There's an entire website dedicated to it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

Basic Car Audio Electronics

 

[XORstatus 10+ year member]

There's an entire website dedicated to it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif
Basic Car Audio Electronics

I looked through that website you linked, I couldn't find the information about the batteries and comparisons.

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

I looked through that website you linked, I couldn't find the information about the batteries and comparisons.

its under charging system basics at the bottom, which is about 1/3 of the way down the list of all the categories on the right