CDT,HAT,Diamond Audio?? Budget Build for 2013 Honda Accord

[Ge_off_me 5,000+ posts]

What I also might tell you is this, if that is the case, CDT done messed up. Back a few years ago, there were a few competitors that used to compete with CDT in sq competitions. When I was at MECA world finals, there was not a single sq car that had CDT in it. Also looking around at other high end sq cars I see no CDT at all. Maybe they should go back to Vifa //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

What I also might tell you is this, if that is the case, CDT done messed up. Back a few years ago, there were a few competitors that used to compete with CDT in sq competitions. When I was at MECA world finals, there was not a single sq car that had CDT in it. Also looking around at other high end sq cars I see no CDT at all. Maybe they should go back to Vifa //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

It's no secret they don't support the competition scene.

 

[Ge_off_me 5,000+ posts]

It's no secret they don't support the competition scene.

Regardless if they support the competition scene or not, you and a few others play them off as wonderful sound quality drivers. I feel that if they were as wonderful and worth the money as you say, more competitors would be using them. PHD is internationally known for their drivers and wins world championships around the world. Just recently being brought into the US, I believe the same will happen here. Audible Physics also just started getting into the competition scene and the first year they brought home numerous awards at world finals. I'm just saying here that it doesn't seem like CDT is worth the money compared to other drivers you could get for the same amount of money.

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

This is the great thing about opinions and preferences. There will always be people who love certain brands because that's what they've used and enjoyed. I don't have any experience with competing or most of today's popular "SQ" brands of speakers, but I've gotten out of my car countless times with a stupid grin on my face after listening to music. This to me is what matters and it's that experience that I want to help others achieve with their cars. If I didn't feel like defending CDT Audio I probably shouldn't be selling for them anymore.

 

[Ge_off_me 5,000+ posts]

You're correct that everybody has their own listening preferences, but as many here will attest to here, there are some drivers that are just superior to others. I absolutely love listening to my car as well. Sometimes I stay in it for 10-15 after I get home from 12+ hours of school and work just to enjoy listening to the music. All that I am really saying is, for what you get from CDT, you can do much better elsewhere.

 

[zako 10+ year member]

My advise may sound like a complete reverse of what you asked, but personally, I would suggest to leave all factory speakers in place, add JBL MS-8 processor (or similar, like Alpine H800), subwoofer amplifier and a subwoofer.

It doesn't matter if you install even a $600 speaker set. Without good processing, in terms of equalization, crossovers, and time alignment, the old GIGO concept still applies in car audio (garbage in, garbage out). The MS-8 has an internal amplifier for 8 channels, so you can hook up all woofers and tweeters to it in active mode. It will automatically calibrate eq, time alignment, and configure surround sound processing for having a proper rear fill. Add a subwoofer, and have a good listen. If you still think there is a problem with sound _then_ start upgrading the speakers and their amplifiers. One you invest in a better speaker, at least you will be able to extract the most out of it with good DSP capabilities.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

i second the MS-8 approach first. start by correcting the terrible amplification and front end. from there you have a good building block for the future, and a great investment. MS-8's will be sought after for years to come.

When it comes to upgrading speakers, installation is more important than brand. once the install is as good as it can be (usually means permanent modifications and custom fabrication) will differences in speaker quality be the limiting factor. keep in mind, buying a $35 raw driver is giving you similar quality as what you get in a $400 component set. comp sets have a lot of markup, as well as R&D with the crossover. the MS-8 lets you run active, allowing even more flexibility with driver selection.

certainly HAT Imagine is a nice drop-in and would pair very well with the MS-8. just don't expect the installation to be as easy as drop-in replacement. custom mounting baffle and recreation of all factory seals is vital to success.

the factory speakers are better than the factory amplification. in most cases, simply improving amplification will make vast improvements in overall sound quality. I have much more invested in amplification than I do in speakers, subs, and head unit; combined.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

lots of companies use Tympany/Peerless, Vifa, Scanspeak, etc. things i look for in full range woofers are cast baskets, good upper frequency response, lightweight cones, and healthy power handling. if you can find underhung designs, even better.

i'm not saying that you shouldn't buy component sets from a manufacturer or even from vendors on this forum. The vendors on the forum are more likely to stand behind their product than a box store. A good relationship with an independent dealer is a plus. pre-made sets are thought out for tonal consistencies and they will come with necessary crossovers. but your Accord requires custom wiring regardless. the head unit output goes to the dash tweeters first, then from there to the door woofers. you need to power the front tweeters, front woofers, and rear woofers independently from the MS-8. you also need to get front and rear HU outputs to the MS-8. then you just need a bundle (literally) from behind the HU to the MS-8. the only independent wires will be to each tweeter - this is where you will need to intercept factory wiring (or disconnect tweeter plug and connect there).