CDT..DLS..or Rainbow Audio...Who to choose??

[3.5Max6spd 10+ year member]

True. Acitve does sound a bit more complicated...but in the long run it would sound better I'm sure. I feel that the only pain in the *** part will be the tweaking and tunning..but that I can deal with. With any kind of system there will be tunning. As for putting in a 3 way component system...what kind of amp would I get for that....a 4 channel sure but.....would I wire the tweeter with the midrange together and then wire the mid bass by istelf to a channel? Also...I don't think I'd be able to put a 7 a 4 and a 1 inch tweeter all together in my door. Not enough room and i don't want to fabricate any kind of crazy kick panels. Want to keep the look stock for security reasons and "of ease" reasons. The only way I can see it working is if I take off my 6x9 speaker...then...use some MDF to make a converter...and maybe squeez in a 7 and a 4 together side by side...then put the tweeter where the other stock tweeter in the door above the arm rest and be done with it.

Doesn't sound to me like 3way frontstage is in your best interest...A properly tuned 2 way active front yields nice resultS- in which a DRZ9255 will not be used to its potential and you can achieve BETTER tuning of those front speakers using another much more affordable deck- like i mentioned before the price difference between a a DRZ9255 and say an Eclipse 8series/Pio 860mp/etc...can get you a whole lot finer set of speakers.

Anyways whatever you chose- good luck....at least you can sort out your needs based on the criteria discussed in this thread.

 

[orangeblast 10+ year member]

Yea I could always settle for the Eclipse 8455...cheaper...but I'm not really digging all the laser beams and dragons that come out of to the screen. I don't care much for that crap...just want a simple nonflashy looking SQ HU.

Just to set it straight....

I'll probably get the CDT ES62's and go active with it...it would be a tweeter and a mid. Then Could go with a 4 channel amp....but I'd have to find out what the RMS is of the tweeter (which is the TW-25) and the Midrange speaker so I can match a n amp to it. The I could go with the Eclipse or get the Clarion...but if the clarion will be stupid to get at this point becuase I'd be using just a 4 channel amp and a component setup....then I guess I should be looking at the eclipse right?

 

[Beat_Dominator 5,000+ posts]

Get whever you want. If you are going active the x-overs you choose will be one of the most important pieces.

 

[alphakenny1 10+ year member]

yes i like i mentioned earlier, running a 3 way frontstage is no cupcake, so just get the eclipse 8455 (awesome deck with great tuning capabilities) and run a 2 way frontstage, tune it correctly and you should have a nice setup.

 

[orangeblast 10+ year member]

sounds like a plan...plus I'd save some money at least with the eclipse over the Clarion.

Also...save money and NOT get a 3 piece component setup.

now I would just need to figure out what the individual RMS ratting are for the ES62 series and get a good 4 channel amp.

recommendations?

 

[3.5Max6spd 10+ year member]

sounds like a plan...plus I'd save some money at least with the eclipse over the Clarion.
Also...save money and NOT get a 3 piece component setup.

now I would just need to figure out what the individual RMS ratting are for the ES62 series and get a good 4 channel amp.

recommendations?

get a solid 70-100rms x4 and call it a day

 

[3.5Max6spd 10+ year member]

Yea I could always settle for the Eclipse 8455...cheaper...but I'm not really digging all the laser beams and dragons that come out of to the screen. I don't care much for that crap...just want a simple nonflashy looking SQ HU.

Well if you are actually considering that deck, the actual display is quite simple- pics on the website show some downloadable crap, it has a few strolling graphic displays on the deck for you to chose from ...but obviously its only a choice- check it out at a local dealer to see if its for you

 

[orangeblast 10+ year member]

oh heh..i just noticed that you have that deck.. the SQ is really good? pretty easy to use? especially given my setup?

 

[3.5Max6spd 10+ year member]

oh heh..i just noticed that you have that deck.. the SQ is really good? pretty easy to use? especially given my setup?

Trust me, I would run a DRZ if I felt it was a better sounding deck. I can get them at cost. But there is no such sonic advantage with that deck IMO. And I'd like to think I have pretty good ears.

We've installed a few in Maximas (i drive a max) and they've introduced alternator whine, wheras none existed before. So I kept away from them.Not saying the product is faulty, but others I know on the forums have as well in different cars.

It is a nicely built deck and obvious xovers flexibility is great- but as I run 3way active now, its 5band TOTAL pEQ is severely lacking. 5band total may be acceptible to some, but even for a 2way active i find it not enough. In a 3way active setup the midrange area alone could use 5bands to itself.

By adding a simple external xover to be able to run 3way active front...i still have

more tuning options over a DRZ...well shy of the price and double the bands of PEQ.

 

[GSteg 10+ year member]

now I would just need to figure out what the individual RMS ratting are for the ES62 series and get a good 4 channel amp.

recommendations?

100x4 will be enough. Nothing wrong with having headroom. Your tweeters will not be receiving the same amount of power as your mids anyways. In the end, no matter how far off your RMS ratings for the speakers are (which I might add is only thermal, not how much is required), you will be gain level matching. I would not be surprised to see your tweeters receiving only 20w while your mids receive 90w or whatever. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[orangeblast 10+ year member]

hrm....I'm a bit confused.

I was taught that the RMS should always be matched with the proper amp out put.

for example.... the CDT ES620s are 180 RMS. SO I planned on pushing it with an AX600 which does 200x2@4ohms. Of course this is all before we talked about an active setup.

and I emailed CDT to ask them what the individual RMS ratings were for the Mid bass and the tweeter that comes with the ES620 and the guy said that:

"There are hardly any power handling on speakers without a proper xover.

As I don’t know your xover design I can’t tell a figure

It all has to do with good xover design and proper amp gain setting"

and what if I get a 4 channel that only outputs 100x4@4ohms. Wouldn't that mean that the Tweeter will get 100 watts!?! and my mids will only get 100watts? and if the ES620 is rated at 180Watts RMS...wouldn't i be underpowering my speakers by 80 watts?

 

[orangeblast 10+ year member]

to make it more clear:

most 4 channel amps I've seen can only do 85x4@4ohms. Now given that...how in the hell would I power my CDT ES620s...at that point my tweeters would be getting 85 watts and my mids 85 watts if I did active.....but the ES620 do 180rms.

 

[flakko 5,000+ posts]

to make it more clear:
most 4 channel amps I've seen can only do 85x4@4ohms. Now given that...how in the hell would I power my CDT ES620s...at that point my tweeters would be getting 85 watts and my mids 85 watts if I did active.....but the ES620 do 180rms.

if you stuck with the usamps AX line... im pretty sure the AX4300 would put out 100+wx4 i mean cmon, its usamps //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[GSteg 10+ year member]

hrm....I'm a bit confused.
I was taught that the RMS should always be matched with the proper amp out put.

You were taught to match, only for headroom or to give you an idea of how much power you have on hand.

and what if I get a 4 channel that only outputs 100x4@4ohms. Wouldn't that mean that the Tweeter will get 100 watts!?! and my mids will only get 100watts? and if the ES620 is rated at 180Watts RMS...wouldn't i be underpowering my speakers by 80 watts?

Just because your tweeters are hooked up to an amp that does a potential 100w does not mean your tweeters will receive that much. An amp rating is a rating that states how much power it does when a single channel is driven, at a specific impedence, at a specific frequency, with a specific input voltage. This is like the peak horsepower rating for cars. There is a whole curve in how much an amp puts out.

The power the speaker gets is frequency dependant (assuming everything else is the same). The higher the frequency, the less power is needed. I will guarentee you that 100w of tweeter will kill your ears, and 100w of subwoofer will be 234235 times more bearable.

The RMS rating of a speaker is merely a rating of how much power the voice coil can take thermally for X amount of time in Y temperature, etc. It's not necessarly the required amount of power you need. You'll always be "underpowering" your speakers unless your volume is at max, the amp is getting the most voltage it can take, and you're at a specific freq where the amp makes its most power. Music is dynamic. You're not going to get 100w from volume 1 through volume 35, otherwise changing the volume knob would be no use because volume increase with power, within the speaker's linear operating range (as in assuming no power compression comes in, or anything like that).

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[xdavieexx 10+ year member]

If you want a set of 3 way 6.3 iridums i have them. And im in Orange county too.. Let me know