Car Won't Start After Driving With System On

[mikez0rs 10+ year member]

My System:

(2) 12" Kicker Comp 12s. (150 RMS each = 300rms)

(1) Kenwood 8105D Mono Amp (1000watt \ 500rms @ 2ohms)

System is wired for 2ohm load and the amp provides 500RMS @ 2ohms. When I go to start my car after about 30 minutes of continuous system use while driving, on pretty hard bass, the car won't start. It sounds like it's about to turn over but I need to wait ~10 minutes to get it to start. Headlights slightly and I mean slightly dim on hard hits. The car is a 1995 Oldsmobile (not sure how many amps the alternator is using, and I didn't do the 'Big 3'). I just purchased a new DieHard battery from Sears the other week.

This seems like such a small system to require a HO alternator, not sure if a capacitor will work here.

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[chillin 10+ year member]

If the system is draining your battery while driving, your alt must be on its way out. You dont need a ho alt for that system, but at this point maybe the alt is done anyway. There could be other issues, but that is the first thing that pops in my head.

 

[mikez0rs 10+ year member]

I'll check the alternator and battery with a voltmeter and bring it to Auto Zone and let them test it for free.

 

[xSPLoder 10+ year member]

Is your remote keeping the the amp on when you shut the vehicle off?

 

[mikez0rs 10+ year member]

Is your remote keeping the the amp on when you shut the vehicle off?

The amp power light only comes on when I attach the faceplate to the head unit and the car is on. No power light when the car is off.

 

[xSPLoder 10+ year member]

you can test your alt by starting the car and pulling the + off the battery. if the car shuts off and does NOT stay running, its your alt

 

[Loudmp5 10+ year member]

so u have to detach the faceplate for the amp to turn off?

 

[Kangaroux 5,000+ posts]

Better way to test is to just check your voltage. If it's not around 13.8 - 14.4v then your alt is probably dead. Or maybe the alt is charging and just not putting out enough current.

 

[mikez0rs 10+ year member]

so u have to detach the faceplate for the amp to turn off?

I need to turn the car on for the amp to come on (remote turn on is connected correctly). I can turn the subs off from the head unit deck.

 

[Loudmp5 10+ year member]

well something aint hooked up right if it was your alt after 10 mins it still wouldnt start still get it checked but i doubt the alts the perk here

 

[mikez0rs 10+ year member]

well something aint hooked up right if it was your alt after 10 mins it still wouldnt start still get it checked but i doubt the alts the perk here

What couldn't be hooked up right? Pretty sure everything is. I will update this when I get my alt testing in a few hours.

I plan on doing 2/3 parts of the Big 3. Chassis to Ground and Negative Battery (-) to Ground. Skipping the Alternator (+) to Battery (+) since I don’t really see the point if you don’t have a High Output Alternator.

 

[mikez0rs 10+ year member]

So I got the battery and alternator tested.

Battery was good 12.95v when the system was running.

Alternator was good (120amp).

However, he said that the starter was putting out 200 pull instead of the normal 120-140 pull. Not sure if anyone has heard of this before?

And my lights dim on loud, loud base. Will a cap fix this? Or should I do the Big 3 first?

 

[CrossoverOre 10+ year member]

A cap will do some help with the lights dimming. When the car doesnt start, does it crank like it wants to start or is it acting like a dead battery? does the check engine light come on when it happens?

 

[goingdef 10+ year member]

CAPS DO NOT FIX ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! but it does sound like you need a new battery and the stereo was just enough to push it over the edge, when your getting the battery have them load test your alt it's free and your there so why not other then that sounds like common maint.

 

[xSPLoder 10+ year member]

So I got the battery and alternator tested.
Battery was good 12.95v when the system was running.

Alternator was good (120amp).

However, he said that the starter was putting out 200 pull instead of the normal 120-140 pull. Not sure if anyone has heard of this before?

And my lights dim on loud, loud base. Will a cap fix this? Or should I do the Big 3 first?

Power Cell!