Car won't start after amp install

[ibl5588]

I'm sorry, what the hell is a cap, is it the little thing a foot off the battery power wire that has the fuse? is that's it then yes, so the amp has to power up for it's first use that i only had the connect to the amp on there for about 10 minutes is that enough time to drain my whole battery? it's a 1,000 watt amp.

 

[ibl5588]

I have doubts it's anything but the battery i don't think it could be the starter, but i'll check i think i just need to really clean the battery terminals and charge it up all day on 2 amps or 6 amps? i would like to trickle charge the battery. I really think it has something to do with the battery.

 

[ejschultz 10+ year member]

That little thing close to the batter is the fuse holder. A cap is a capacitor. They're usually cylindrically shaped, kind of like a big can. You would know if you had one. The kit probably would have been about $100 more than a similar one without it. If you get power to everything but the vehicle won't start, just make sure all your connections at the battery are good. Like I said, there's more than likely a power wire going directly to the vehicle's starter. If that wire is loose on the battery end (there should be no problem on the starter end unless you really messed up) you may get pretty crappy starts or no starts at all. Check it.

 

[ejschultz 10+ year member]

I have doubts it's anything but the battery i don't think it could be the starter, but i'll check i think i just need to really clean the battery terminals and charge it up all day on 2 amps or 6 amps? i would like to trickle charge the battery. I really think it has something to do with the battery.

I never said it was the starter. I said it could be the power wire going to the starter from the battery. There should be 3 factory wires coming off your positive battery post. One will go the alternator, one goes to a main fuse box, and one usually goes to a starter. I believe there are some cars with only 2 wires. In this case, the starter would be fused in the main fuse box. If you have 2 wires, check that fuse and probably some others too. If you accidentally blew one, you probably blew a few more.

 

[KyleBechtold 5,000+ posts]

its either the starter or the battery.. whether its them or the connection to them

 

[ibl5588]

That's my disgusting battery i think i need to clean her up. Thanks for the advice i'll have to do some investigating when it's light outside.

 

[ejschultz 10+ year member]

That's my disgusting battery i think i need to clean her up. Thanks for the advice i'll have to do some investigating when it's light outside.

It's more fun in the dark. There's nothing like guesswork when it comes to your vehicles electrical system.

 

[BassMechkanic 10+ year member]

i bet between the bad condition of the battery, bad connections and he deep cycled it while doing the install, the battery is done -

 

[ejschultz 10+ year member]

Deep cycling a starting battery sucks. I've done it before. I only use yellow tops up front now after learning the hard way. I haven't done it since I put my YT Optima in my car and my YT Duralast in my truck. I don't listen to music with the car off, but with my car it's the interior work with all the **** lights on with the doors open that gets me. I've never ran the truck down, The batts in there just in case.

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

If the starter doesn't even click, yet the lights are bright then the batt isn't the problem and I highly doubt the starter died while doing your install.

I had the same issue last week with a newe Chevy Impala. Apparently the car has the LAN set up where the radio is tied into the computer.

Car started first time and we did some settings on the HU/amp. He shut it off then it would do what you described, turn the key and nothing, not even trying to start. He realized there was no door chime and the HU stayed on when he opened the door. If he powered off the HU the car would start.

I didn't do the initial install, but when I was hooking up the comp/sub amps there were 2 wires that appeared to be the REM wires, so I hooked them back up. Apparently the one wire was not supposed to be connected as once I disconnected it the car worked fine.

I believe I had a similar issue doing the HU in my GF's Cobalt and had to tie into a certain place for the REM wire to avoid the same issues...

Cliff's Notes: make sure the HU is powerd off and try to start the car

 

[ejschultz 10+ year member]

If the starter doesn't even click, yet the lights are bright then the batt isn't the problem and I highly doubt the starter died while doing your install.
I had the same issue last week with a newe Chevy Impala. Apparently the car has the LAN set up where the radio is tied into the computer.

Car started first time and we did some settings on the HU/amp. He shut it off then it would do what you described, turn the key and nothing, not even trying to start. He realized there was no door chime and the HU stayed on when he opened the door. If he powered off the HU the car would start.

I didn't do the initial install, but when I was hooking up the comp/sub amps there were 2 wires that appeared to be the REM wires, so I hooked them back up. Apparently the one wire was not supposed to be connected as once I disconnected it the car worked fine.

I believe I had a similar issue doing the HU in my GF's Cobalt and had to tie into a certain place for the REM wire to avoid the same issues...

This could be an issue as well. Not one of us asked what type of car he's driving. On a lot of the newer GMs you have to relocate the factory HU to keep the car operating normally/correctly. But still, don't leave out the batt + to starter. 'Tis a possibility as well.

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

Obviously whoever did the Impala install new how to remove the factory HU and wire it correctly and make it work. I just got bit because I didn't remove the stuff when putting in the new equipment, so the wires both appeard to be REM wires for the amps. Not sure what was actually for, but leaving it disconnected returned the car to normal.

Do a search on your car and adding an aftermarket HU and see what turns up....

 

[TurdFergueson2 5,000+ posts]

If the starter doesn't even click, yet the lights are bright then the batt isn't the problem and I highly doubt the starter died while doing your install.
I had the same issue last week with a newe Chevy Impala. Apparently the car has the LAN set up where the radio is tied into the computer.

Car started first time and we did some settings on the HU/amp. He shut it off then it would do what you described, turn the key and nothing, not even trying to start. He realized there was no door chime and the HU stayed on when he opened the door. If he powered off the HU the car would start.

I didn't do the initial install, but when I was hooking up the comp/sub amps there were 2 wires that appeared to be the REM wires, so I hooked them back up. Apparently the one wire was not supposed to be connected as once I disconnected it the car worked fine.

I believe I had a similar issue doing the HU in my GF's Cobalt and had to tie into a certain place for the REM wire to avoid the same issues...

Cliff's Notes: make sure the HU is powerd off and try to start the car

This could be an issue as well. Not one of us asked what type of car he's driving. On a lot of the newer GMs you have to relocate the factory HU to keep the car operating normally/correctly. But still, don't leave out the batt + to starter. 'Tis a possibility as well.

I don't trust anybody that lives with 15 pound cats..//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif:crazy:

Was that an 06-09 Impala? Was on my "One day" list of cars. I liked the roominess and look of it.