Capacitors

if you have well made parts, you shouldn't be worried about the pistons rings wearing out so soon. just like subs. you can get a cheap sub (keyword: cheap) and not push it hard and it can still blow (like pyramid???) or you can get a high quality sub like a Digital Design 9500 series and it will last though insane number of watts without breaking down. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
The V-Tech is probably the most overrated motor ever. 100hp per litre does not apply as that equals ricer math (i.e. one decal=20hp). Ring wear is dependent on block preperation and piston to wall clearances also ring end gaps come into play. I do not understand why "ricers" spend thousands just to get tore up by a Mustang that has a simple $2k Vortech supercharger //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

Back to the topic at hand....I'd also like to know if a cap would help in his situation as I'm debating one also?

(for some reason I had to re-register, arrrgggh)

 
Originally posted by RobWiz Back to the topic at hand....I'd also like to know if a cap would help in his situation as I'm debating one also?

 
Whats your situation? Lights dim?

Most likley I will suggest either a) get your current alternator rewound, or b) get a new alternator with a higher amp rating than your current one(we can help you decide what to get, are you running neons? HID bulbs? anything aftermarket((electrical)) besides the stereo?)

- Steve

 
well i have one neon like but i usually dont have it on(im not gonan spend lots more for a better product just so i can have my neon on) but anyways i have a 80 amp alternator and the amp i have is a jbl 1200.1. At most i want to spend 200 dollars to fix my problem. thanks for all the inputs.

 
Originally posted by RobWiz I do not understand why "ricers" spend thousands just to get tore up by a Mustang that has a simple $2k Vortech supercharger //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

Simple, if you look at it in perspective, most of the 4cyl. crowd is in the area of 400HP give or take. Thats 100HP for each cylinder, often, more than 1 horse per cubic inch. How often do you see the 8cyl. crowd accomplish this?

I myself prefer and drive a V8 powered car, however, in terms of making power for everyday use, I think that it is pretty obvious that the 4cyl crowd is on to something good.

If us 8cyl people would apply some of the same practices to our vehicles in terms of power adding, I am sure that we would also accomplish quite a lot.

take it easy,

-zane

 
Originally posted by zane Simple, if you look at it in perspective, most of the 4cyl. crowd is in the area of 400HP give or take. Thats 100HP for each cylinder, often, more than 1 horse per cubic inch. How often do you see the 8cyl. crowd accomplish this?

 

I myself prefer and drive a V8 powered car, however, in terms of making power for everyday use, I think that it is pretty obvious that the 4cyl crowd is on to something good.

 

If us 8cyl people would apply some of the same practices to our vehicles in terms of power adding, I am sure that we would also accomplish quite a lot.

 

take it easy,

 

-zane
hey..hey!! the mystery man posts again!! sup zane??

now to nit pick ya a little.......hehehaha....

as to the 1hp to cubic inch...u know that for not much more then a mild cam and maybe a larger carb, throttle body..u can get more then that out of most small block chevy's or ford's(dodge's too). as to 100 hp per cylinder, really don't need that. a v-8's torque off the bottom more then make's up for the hp difference...and when u compare a 400 v-8 to a 400 hp i-4...it's still just 400 hp....but where is the i4's torque? by the time it get's revved up enuff to hit it's hp peak....the v-8 is hooked and gone..and hitting it's hp peak lower in the rpm band. and the benefit is a motor less likely to go ballestic on ya...lower rpm generally means less wear and tear.

oh yeah... a top fuel dragster/funny car makes like 800 hp per cylinder....know of any imports (nitro burning, of course) that can claim that?

and to the original topic......for lite light dimming, i think a cap would/could help. i don't think it's a solution, but would work. for heavy light dimming, upgrading of the electrical system is in order.

 
yeah, i remember the thread....jlaine brought up a lot of good points. yet chris229(?) also brought up how it needed to be the low-esr cap..and all caps i have seen lately SAY low -esr. are they? dunno, that's just what they have on them. i agree that if the system(electrical) is having a extremely hard time, lights dim to the point of going off, voltmeter dropping/ staying down on/ at loud volumes, and in my bro-in-laws case..u can see the car (at speedo) slow down at heavy volumes/bass hits, then a cap won't work. i still think that if the car is experiencing minimal dimming( almost non-existent), that a cap will help. i know of three people right off the top of my head that will swear by them. one owns a honda civic with factory 90 amp alt, two caps, and over 1500 wrms going to subs and componets. he says his lights dimmed till he put in the caps. is he wrong? he swears by them. i myself am having a dimming problem, albeit, so small as to barely notice it. i own a 01 ram with a 136 amp alt, 570 wrms btween subs and componets and if changing to a class d sub amp(same power..500wrms) doesn't cure it..i'm buying a cap. i'll know for myself then.

sorry so long..............

 
Originally posted by mrray13 hey..hey!! the mystery man posts again!! sup zane??

 

now to nit pick ya a little.......hehehaha....

 

as to the 1hp to cubic inch...u know that for not much more then a mild cam and maybe a larger carb, throttle body..u can get more then that out of most small block chevy's or ford's(dodge's too). as to 100 hp per cylinder, really don't need that. a v-8's torque off the bottom more then make's up for the hp difference...and when u compare a 400 v-8 to a 400 hp i-4...it's still just 400 hp....but where is the i4's torque? by the time it get's revved up enuff to hit it's hp peak....the v-8 is hooked and gone..and hitting it's hp peak lower in the rpm band. and the benefit is a motor less likely to go ballestic on ya...lower rpm generally means less wear and tear.

 

oh yeah... a top fuel dragster/funny car makes like 800 hp per cylinder....know of any imports (nitro burning, of course) that can claim that?

 

 

and to the original topic......for lite light dimming, i think a cap would/could help. i don't think it's a solution, but would work. for heavy light dimming, upgrading of the electrical system is in order.

800 HP per cylinder? I have never seen that from any piston powered engine.

800 x 8 = 6,400HP //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif Nope- not even on alcohol. Mabey if we had 1.21 gigawatts....

Torque and Horsepower go so much hand in hand, that the issue of torque alone doesnt really mean a whole lot.

Personally, I have seen a 240 HP, 200ft lb car completely kill a 450HP, 375 ft lb car in a race on more than one occasion.

Of course, this also brings weight distribution into things, which sorry to say, the 4cyl crowd has the advantage 99% of the time.

Thats a little taste of how things even out a bit.

As for the initial question- Hong Kong Phooey the cap. Not going to make enough of a difference to even ponder thinking of it.

take it easy,

-zane

 
Originally posted by zane 800 HP per cylinder? I have never seen that from any piston powered engine.

 

800 x 8 = 6,400HP //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif Nope- not even on alcohol. Mabey if we had 1.21 gigawatts....

 

Torque and Horsepower go so much hand in hand, that the issue of torque alone doesnt really mean a whole lot.

 

Personally, I have seen a 240 HP, 200ft lb car completely kill a 450HP, 375 ft lb car in a race on more than one occasion.

 

Of course, this also brings weight distribution into things, which sorry to say, the 4cyl crowd has the advantage 99% of the time.

 

Thats a little taste of how things even out a bit.

 

As for the initial question- Hong Kong Phooey the cap. Not going to make enough of a difference to even ponder thinking of it.

 

take it easy,

 

-zane
6400 hp is correct..from nitro-burning supercharged NHRA top fuel funny cars and dragsters. with dual magnetos, they are probably close to 1.2 gigawatts..haha

u got me on the weight distribution thing..

if torque and horsepower go hand in hand (majority of time i will agree) y is it most imports are higher hp then torque, where as american v-8's are the opposite?(at least until u get in to the real high hp numbers)

i love tapping u for info...u da man!!(shame-less ****-up) hehe

 
i do a little engine building for the Busch series so I'll chime in....and which daily driven 4cyl cars are pushing 400hp at the wheels, even 400 flywheel hp??? Preludes....nope....Civics....for sure not...DSMs...difficult but possible with a honker of a turbo. Now if we're talking TT Supras then hell yea, mucho potential. Those Alum blocks handle 650 rwhp all day long quite nicely. Problem is most 8cyl pushrod blocks (i.e. '88-'92 Mustangs, '93's didn't have forged internals...weaker) start cracking at ~520rwhp...right at the lifter valley usually, next weakest is the timing chain area by the cam gear. I don't think they're onto anything by spending ~$500-600 just for an exhaust manifold (headers) that net ~15-20hp max. One of the cars I built is a simple rebuilt stock blocked '91 Mustang with a heads/cam/intake combo that netted me $1500...then for a FULL exhaust with ceramic long tube headers, h-pipe, and cat-back cost $550 total....a 1000cfm s'charger cost $2100....it'll pass CA smog with a 30 min. exhaust swap and gets 23mpg on the freeway. The thing swallows Porsche TT's, Testarossas, and Vipers with ease. Tires (drag radials) will cut loose from a 50mph punch on the freeway. Only thing I have against "ricers" is the money to power ratio is not efficient at all...I had one ricer with "NAWS" want to run me the distance of a "bus length" as he said...hmmm, why not 1/4 mile or even 1/8th mile(??)....we ran the "bus length" and he got swallowed at ~75% throttle (back peddling). No flame intended by any means at all...I respect ALL hobbies, and I'm not bragging by no means b/c I DO know there are always bigger dogs when it comes to performance engine building, just makes for interesting conversation to add to the "audio" chit chat //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Back to the topic at hand //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

My lights dim a touch, I do have a yellow top. My stock alt is 70amps I believe. I do/can plan to upgrade to a 130amp alt since I can fit one up from a '95+ year model car...is that enough alt for my application in my sig??

Thanks kindly,

Rob

 
I would recommend a 5-farad cap. I just installed a 5 fared cap in my car to run 2 titanium eclipse subs.......this will help tremdously.

 
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