Capaciter question

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

I don't compete and I think that SPL competitions are.... Well, I'm not a fan of them. I'll leave it at that. But aren't they done with the car off, anyway?
I'm in car audio because I enjoy audio (in the music sense, not the bass/loudness sense) and I enjoy cars, not because I have something to prove.

Many are done with the car running. All of the New England organizations do car running (you should check out some shows this year, it's a great crowd).

Batteries > all

I thought this was a troll thread until I saw the date.

 

[mast240 10+ year member]

Many are done with the car running. All of the New England organizations do car running (you should check out some shows this year, it's a great crowd).
Batteries > all

I thought this was a troll thread until I saw the date.

i thought the same thing at first, lol

 

[xmakeafistx 10+ year member]

I was in the same place a year ago, lol.

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

great link bro... stealing this for the noob Q&A thread

I have it bookmarked for threads just like this one...

 

[ThatChevyGuy 5,000+ posts]

I use kinetik batteries. This one is good for around 1200-1500rms if you don't bump for more than an hour at a time full blast. I dont have any dimming, stock everything with this batt.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kinetik-HC600B-KHC600B-850-Amp-12V-High-Current-Car-Audio-Power-Cell-Battery-/290656275561?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&vxp=mtr&hash=item43ac76cc69

 

[CAT MAN 5,000+ posts]

I use kenetik batteries

i do too and i hold 14 at idle //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 

[ThatChevyGuy 5,000+ posts]

13.8 here no dimming on 1000rms

 

[CAT MAN 5,000+ posts]

13.8 here no dimming on 1000rms

im running the hc2000 paired with a redtop starter on all my mbq amps (480rms of a/b power and 1500rms of D)

ill never run anything else. i just wish their re-charge was a bit better :/

 

[phantom240 5,000+ posts]

LOL i have a Kinetik 1400R in my trunk just for sh*ts and giggles. My sissy 4-channel can run for days with that bastard. I really need to finish my sub so I can hook up my Sundown... When it was my main battery, I held 14.2v at idle with 900w rms of amps flexing.

 

[wenn_du_weinst 10+ year member]

Many are done with the car running. All of the New England organizations do car running (you should check out some shows this year, it's a great crowd).
Batteries > all

I thought this was a troll thread until I saw the date.

as did I

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I recommend a battery rather than a capacitor.Yet you choose what you would like for your system.Yet, a battery would be more suuffecient in most cases.

 

[i2ain2thunder 10+ year member]

at 2k wrms even a really high capacity capacitor isn't going to do much to help,....if anything. A battery is really needed at that much wattage to stabilize voltage drops. HO alt is prob the best option but also the most costly I'd never jump to that first unless I had money to blow. My advice is to watch your voltage with the system on full tilt playing your most bassy music (lowest hz), if you are droping below 13 volts throughout the test you need another battery if you are dropping below 12 volts either 2 batteries or a ho alternator. If the voltage drop is severe enough your alternator is going to get pretty beat up and may have a shorter life expectancy. Not to mention the risk of clipping due to inadequate voltage for the amplifier. At bare minimum I'd make sure your amp is getting 12 volts for safety of all operating equipment.

 

[BnGRacing 10+ year member]

Adding an extra battery is going to add another load, 7-10A, on your current charging system. If anything, your lights will dim even easier.

A battery is a very stiff regulator. The problem is it's about 12.5v while the alternator is around 14v. Stepping down from the higher voltage to the lower voltage is going to happen if you have 1 battery or 100 batteries. Ohms law tells us that current is drawn from the highest voltage source. In your car, that means the alternator. Once current demand exceeds the capability of the charging system, it dims the lights as power is drawn from the battery. In addition, a battery requires 13v and about 7A of current to maintain itself.

Adding extra batteries will not help dimming. And if you're reading about capacitors and the author/poster starts talking about ESR, stop reading and go find some other info. Why? Capacitors will not pass DC when in series. Go ahead and try it...

And if capacitors are such a waste, why are they in ALL amplifiers? I'd also like to ask those who say capacitors are worthless a question; when you removed said worthless caps from the board of your amp, what kind of battery did you use to replace them?

 

[i2ain2thunder 10+ year member]

Adding an extra battery is going to add another load, 7-10A, on your current charging system. If anything, your lights will dim even easier.
A battery is a very stiff regulator. The problem is it's about 12.5v while the alternator is around 14v. Stepping down from the higher voltage to the lower voltage is going to happen if you have 1 battery or 100 batteries. Ohms law tells us that current is drawn from the highest voltage source. In your car, that means the alternator. Once current demand exceeds the capability of the charging system, it dims the lights as power is drawn from the battery. In addition, a battery requires 13v and about 7A of current to maintain itself.

Adding extra batteries will not help dimming. And if you're reading about capacitors and the author/poster starts talking about ESR, stop reading and go find some other info. Why? Capacitors will not pass DC when in series. Go ahead and try it...

And if capacitors are such a waste, why are they in ALL amplifiers? I'd also like to ask those who say capacitors are worthless a question; when you removed said worthless caps from the board of your amp, what kind of battery did you use to replace them?

A stock alternator is not going to be able to supply 2kwrms you will need a battery lol to suggest otherwise is madness. Batteries are a drain on the alternator, batteries lose power when it is being used to supply it to your amplifier or other electrical needs of your vehicle. Batteries can only hold so much power the alternator is seeing them as a load yes to supply voltage to and you may loose a few amps....but you will gain amps that are available for your amplifier especially when the draw from your amplifier exceeds the ability of your alternator, which in this particular situation, it will.

Also not once did I say capacitors are worthless in general...just for his application with the amount of current being drawn from the amplifier and the amount of capacitors needed to keep the voltage in balance during the times when his system will actually need it are extremely impractical.

 

[i2ain2thunder 10+ year member]

Gawd why am I even discussing this, to say that adding batteries will result in headlight dimming is abesolutely retarded, the 12.7 resting voltage of a battery will keep stock headlights as bright as they need to be. the dimming from losing voltage from the regulated 14.5volts to say the batteries voltage of 12.7 is hardly noticable. Honestly the most practical thing you can do without a high output alternator is to add batteries.